Electric brakes issues Info need

[HK45]

Need some help. I have A 2014 Cornpro 25FT deckover with electric brakes. My brakes never seem to work well. Can somebody help me understand how trailer brakes are supposed to work. Should the trailer brakes alone be able to stop truck and trailer? I just had trailer inspected and brakes adjust per dexter, But they never seem to work well. If I'm coming down a hill I have to go slow because I can Barely stop. By the time i get home mY trailer brakes and truck brakes smell bad like they are really burning up. If it wasn't for the exhaust brake on my truck I would be really worried. Also will changing over to hydraulic over electric help.

 

[texasjohn]

I don't think that your brakes are working properly if they are getting as hot/smelly as you say. You should have a brake controller in your tow vehicle and set it properly to actuate the trailer brakes when you step on the brakes. If trailer and tow brakes are all in good shape, they should equally apply braking force for smooth stopping. If some of your brakes are defective, then all braking is done by the other brakes, which is likely causing them to over heat. I think you should check all brake components on both vehicles and repair as necessary.
This site has parts for just about anything.
Trailer Brakes | etrailer.com

 

[George2615]

Which model 25' deck over do you have, how much load is on the trailer, and what are you towing it with. This might give us a clue to why your brakes are not working properly.

If the trailer is empty you should be able to lock the trailer brakes by manually moving your trailer brake controller lever. If not they may need adjustment.
Inside the trailer drums are electromagnets (unless you have optional disc brakes). Your trailer brake controller applies voltage to the magnets which stick to the drum. The more voltage applied, the harder the want to stick. As the wheel is rotating the magnet is mounted on and arm that rotates a cam. The cam forces the brakes shoes out against the drums. There is adjustment usually at the bottom between the shoes. Here's a vid on brakes.
Dexter 12" Left Hand Electric Trailer Brakes Review Video | etrailer.com

 

[oliver1555]

Dexter axle has a very good interactive website:

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Home

Use the menu at the top of the page. Resource library and search should help you to understand, troubleshoot, and repair your brakes. What is your brake controller? There are a lot of substandard ones out there and, unfortunately, the two best are out of business - Brakesmart and MaxBrake. They cost much more than the inertia controllers and it's hard to get someone who has never used one to spring for the extra. Once you have used one, the inertia controller makes a good trash can liner. The pickup should stop itself and the trailer should stop itself. If either is doing more, the system is not working properly. Look around their website. Dexter stresses having the ground running from each brake back through the plug and to the battery on the tow vehicle. That's how I've had mine for years. Grounding to the frame just gives more chances for problems from loose or corroded connections. Take note of what they say about not only proper voltage, but proper amperage. I linked a few pages that may help.

Oliver 1555

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - FAQ'S
http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/Brake_Resources/Typical_Trailer_Wiring_2-09.pdf
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/Brake_Resources/Troubleshooting_Electric_Brakes.pdf

 

[Deere Dude]

I had brake problems with my fifth wheel camper from new. I had a new controller put in in 2002 when I got the camper but it never seemed to stop like it should. Finally I pulled all the hubs and noticed one brake shoe was totally gone. I replaced all 4 brakes assemblies although three would probably have been okay, but then I got a Tekonsha P3 brake controller that made the biggest difference in stopping. It is expensive but I can mount in in almost any direction as long as it is level side to side. It has a boost feature that instantly ups the volts to the magnets as soon as you step on the brakes.
Unless you are really overloaded and are having the problems you mentioned, I would pull all the hubs off to make sure they are installed correctly, left on the left and right on the right. If all the shoes are okay and all the magnets are working and have the right ohms resistance going through them, I would get a very good controller.
It is a newer trailer but I went through my 2013 GN with the help of some guys from this forum and the brake shoes were shot already. But I put on 15,000 miles.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What truck and brake controller? I assume you are using a newer diesels since you mentioned exhaust brake.

Yes, disc brakes are a huge improvement over the drums. I have converted 2 of my 3 trailers. Night and day difference and the biggest benefit is good braking in reverse.

Chris

 

[HK45]

Truck is a 2014 RAM 2500 cREW CAB SHORT BED 4X4 6.7 Trailer is a 2014 Corn pro Deck over gooseneck 25 ft and, tractor bobcat CT450 Loader backhoe. I think with everything Im around 19000 to 20000 Pounds. I have My truck set on Heavy Brake and 10

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yes, something is not right. You have a good truck and trailer. What trailer brake controller are you using? Maybe try a buddies truck and isolate things.

Chris

 

[downsizingnow48]

That's a real good suggestion. Switch trucks. If it stays the same, has to be trailer. Otherwise, controller/truck setup.

 

[HK45]

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