Electric brakes issues Info need

[HHR]

I'm surprised. The F series trucks have had them as an option since 2005. You would think the E series would also. Chris

No surprise to me. The E-series still uses the 2-valve 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L which hasn't been available in the F-series since 2004. At least they upgraded to the TorqShift 5-speed auto on the V10 models.

 

[RedDog]

Need some help. I have A 2014 Cornpro 25FT deckover with electric brakes. My brakes never seem to work well. Can somebody help me understand how trailer brakes are supposed to work. Should the trailer brakes alone be able to stop truck and trailer? I just had trailer inspected and brakes adjust per dexter, But they never seem to work well. If I'm coming down a hill I have to go slow because I can Barely stop. By the time i get home mY trailer brakes and truck brakes smell bad like they are really burning up. If it wasn't for the exhaust brake on my truck I would be really worried. Also will changing over to hydraulic over electric help.

Since you have a new trailer and newer truck, the first thing I would be doing is making sure your trailer has a good ground. Without a good ground you will have all kinds of issues. Put some good grease on your trailer ball, and some dielectric grease on your light cord. Before tearing into anything I would try this easy method first. Good luck,

 

[HK45]

Im taking it to dealer and having them check it out. Ill let you guys know what it is. Thank for all the info

 

[downslope]

Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

 

[kevinj]

Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

Is the wiring hooked up in the box???? Is the brake fuse good??? By your description you have no volts to your plug

 

[oliver1555]

Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

You need to be able to check for voltage with a multimeter. Voltage should increase as controller is depressed. If you don't have a multimeter, an old heater blower motor works great. As the voltage increases, the blower speeds up.

 

[downslope]

You need to be able to check for voltage with a multimeter. Voltage should increase as controller is depressed. If you don't have a multimeter, an old heater blower motor works great. As the voltage increases, the blower speeds up.

I have a multimeter, but I guess the question is does the circuit need a load on it similar to the brake magnets in order for the factory brake controller to sense that it's connected so it operates properly and sends output voltage down the wire? Or can I just put the multimeter to the brake pin on the connector (and ground) and measure open circuit voltage?

Have any of you ever had the factory controller go bad and need replacement? I suspect it might be expensive to replace the OEM controller; or would you just go with an after market unit at that point? When the truck was just under 3 years old they replaced a brake pressure sensor in the controller circuit, but that was under warrantee. When that problem cropped up I was getting a trailer brake error message on the DIC; there is no error code showing now.

I will try to check the fuse and wire connection under the hood.

 

[Soundguy]

Load it with the magnet itself

 

[HK45]

Finally had the trailer breaks checked out. All four are shot and covered in grease. Good news they are getting replaced under warranty. Bad new why did this happen, and will it happen again.

 

[JimRB]

Wlld guess that the grease seals were not properly installed. The few times I have worked on trailer brakes, the big bearing gets pulled out because the grease seal is still stuck on the hub/drum.

Maybe the unit was overgreased and popped the seals out when the bearings heated up. That theory is grabbing for straws.