Electric Chute Rotator for 3 Pt Mounted Snowblower

[Bedlam]

The reason you would need to isolate the motors from being grounded is that the case of the motor itself is a ground. It is designed to rotate one way. I make it run backwards by changing the polarity. But in doing so, the case now becomes a possitive polarity. and if it was solidly mounted to the frame, it would be a direct short.
There are sites that sell linear actuators with various strokes and 12 volts fairly cheap. I could have used one for the deflector, but I was too cheap..LOL
As far as the rotor motor, I would use a window motor next time before the wiper. As someone stated before, it would be no mounting problems with reference to the grounding problem, as they are designed to rotate both ways.
Let me add, I have often wondered why the companies havent made bolt on kits.I assume that they like to sell the pistons and hoses and valves.Perhaps in a commercial usage it would make sence for hyd.
Hope this answered your question. And HMM yes the shaft grounding did catch me by surprise... (As they say here, dont ask) but sparks flew....
Allan

 

[Bill_in_MI]

I also converted to electric because I got tired of punching out my tail lights if I left the handle in the wrong position on lifting my rear mount blower. I sawed off the crank handle and did a direct connection to a wiper motor (less than $20) using scrounged up hardware. I made a switch box for forward and reverse using a couple of momentary switches and some bosh relays. If anyone is interested I can take a couple of photos. It's now in it's second year of operation...big snow in Michigan yesterday so it got another good workout.

 

[Bedlam]

Sure, would love to see some pics.
Allan

 

[PILOON]

Here is the wireing for the reversing switch. (attached)

Basically it wants a DPDT (double throw double pole) with spring loaded- center off switch.

Can be a 'bat handle', 'rocker' or straight toggle switch.
The latter is probably the most rugged.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Here is a collage of shots I took. On further review, the motor is an electric window motor. I was luck and a 19mm 12 point socket fit the gear that was on the motor perfectly. I just made a simple bracket and ran a short extension back to the cut off crank handle. I show the quickly made switch box as well. I will re-do this some day to tidy things up. But you can see how I used the relays with the momentary switches. I believe in using the relays to keep the current through the switches low...coil activation current only. Not so pretty, but it does the job.

 

[PILOON]

Bill_in_MI

My rotator is a wheelchair drive motor, permanant magnet type which I'm sure draws more amps than a wiper or window motor.
I wired a spring loaded DPDT sw that was rated at 10 amps and have been running it for the second season without any problem.
Also the sw is an import 'rocker' type, not of the highest quality.
I like the rocker because even with gloves on it is convienent to use.

You have to agree that an electric installation sure beats a hydraulic plumbing and valve placement job.
Try locating a hyd valve at your finger tips!

Mine is conviently placed for the right hand just below the FEL valves.