Electric Chute Rotator for 3 Pt Mounted Snowblower

[bluecon1]

And this one

 

[PILOON]

bluecon1
That is basically what I suggested in my earlier post, only I would have eliminated the manual crank and cabled directly from the shute to the winch making the system more direct and probably with a better response. Fore sure there would be less slop in the system.
In your installation I would place the winch approximately in the middle of the brand name stencil sticker on top of the blower body.
To help the cable wind evenly you could install 2 'roller fairleads', say, 3/8" bolts about 4-5" in front of the winch. They would be about 2 1/2" long and would have say 1 3/4" pieces of 1/2" pipe to act as rollers. The bolts would have nuts on both sides of the blower body to lock them firmly in the upright position.

Otherwise you were on my 'wavelength' using the ATV winch as power source.

In as much as the price of those ATV winches make them very affordable we have gotta figure out a way to make them drive a long threaded rod to actuate the shute diverter.

On the other hand, those old satelite dishes (the 12' ones) all had a linear actuator that runs on 12 or 24 VDC. That would be ideal as they even have a 'ball joint at one end.
Problem is they are about 2' long and would have to be cut and modified.
I have one and plan to use it to make a dumping trailor as they open from 24" to near 40" with plenty of torque.

A search on EBay for 'linear actuator' will find the exact unit that you want, but generally somewhat pricy. You would only need about 6" of travel.
A linear acuator is very much like an electric powered turnbuckle, and ideal for the shute deflector.

Good thinking and good luck.

 

[bluecon1]

Agreed Piloon, I did make things probably more complicated than needed, the only benefit I have here is that if the winch quits for whatever reason, I can put it to "freewheel" and operate it manually with the stock crank. My system does allow for more slack than I would prefer. Aux. hydraulics would be sweet, but I have no other use for them other than on my blower.

 

[PILOON]

bluecon1
Just for the heck of it I did a search on EBay 'linear actuator' and came up eith a high torque actuator, 12 volts, with a 7" travel limit at $39.00.
That would be ideal to control the snow shute deflector.
To get the 7" the overall length was , I believe, 17" however that should not pose a problem- it would just mean that a new attach point would be needed at 17" with the actuator extended and the shute wide open.
Most shutes would allow for 17".

While aux hydraulics might be sweet, they would cost tons more than our electric setups, besides it is a whole lot easier to route a couple of # 12 guage wires than to install and route the plumbing for hydraulics.

I had the option in as I have aux hyd power at rear of my tractor with quick connectors.
Better still I have 2 spare new valves and a half dz cylinders in my precious stock.
Also have good steel supply and a 230 amp welder but I still opted for the electric shute control after weighing all the implications and price was not the main concern.
I don't regret my choice.

 

[drmiller100]

that winch idea sure is a good one.
two wraps of the cable around the chute and a spring loaded tensioner are another idea.

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I mounted a cheap winch in conjunction with my manual chute crank. It works well and hasn't given me grief. It took a little trial and error but I'm happy with it. I like the idea of an actuator for the top of the chute.......it never ends )</font>

My hand crank broke off when the cattle used it for scratching a few years ago. Wanted to automate it anyhow.

So, I read his thread & see the neat pics 6 hours _after_ the Cumins semis quit selling in town. Walked past the $50 electric winches & thought neat, but what would I use then for?

Sigh.

---->Paul

 

[Bedlam]

All these ideas are great. I used the wiper motor from a Geo metro to spin my screw for the chute deflector. It works great. But you have to make sure the motor is isolated from making a ground contact. I used a rubber innertube for insulation on mine. I dint figure on the shaft also having to be kept from making ground, I used a short piece of stif plastic tube to make the connection and drilled a whole through it for a nail for a pin .
I wasnt too pleased with my work, but it works slick as can be. and no slop.
On the deflector part, I used a linear actuator. that also works slick. I was so cheap that the one I had was 120 volts, so I removed the motor and used the fan blower motor form the Metro to power that, it works fine also.
Someone recomended the power window motors. I think that a great idea. as the grounding isnt a problem.And it sure is easier to just use a trailer plug to hook it to the tractor.
Used two double pole switches to run it. Ill try to post a couple of pics soon.
AL

 

[Bedlam]

Here is the shute rotation motor

 

[Bedlam]

and the rotation motor

 

[Pks]

Why the concern for grounding the casing of the wiper motor to the blower/tractor?