Electric selector valve

[MossRoad]

Grapple is waiting for me to buy a cylinder, then plumb everything to use the quick connect circuit just like the power angel for the snow plow.

Here's the link to the selector valve at Northern.

 

[davesisk]

Picture of thumb switch?

Charlie:

Any chance you've got a picture of the thumb switch mounted to your joystick that you would post? What type of switch did you use? Surface mount?

Thx!
Dave

 

[davesisk]

OK, so I think I figured out how to make this decision. If I were going to build the grapple as a seperate attachment (with upper jaws and lower jaws, not as part of the current bucket), then I think I'd go with the manual selector. If I were going to build the grapple jaw onto the current bucket (which I use 90% of the time), then I should go with the electric selector, as I'll be using that capability more often. I've thought about which type of grapple I want to add, and I think I'll add a grapple to the current bucket...that's easier to build, and unless I make the grapple jaw just too darned big, then I don't think it will "get in the way" when I don't need it's capability. (Has anyone else got any experiences to share on when the grapple on a grapple bucket "gets in the way"?)

Right now, I'm leaning strongly toward the electric selector valve!

Dave

 

[MossRoad]

Having not finished mine, I couldn't tell you when it will get in the way. I'll brobably tip my bucket all the way back and see how far I can open the jaws. Then put a temporary stop in to limit the jaws to that point. Then I'll see if the opening is wide enough to do functional work. I originally planned to make them open as wide as possible(and still might) but I have to be careful to see if it hits anything. A few more weeks and I'll have time to work on it again....... I hope /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Re: Picture of thumb switch?

I used the W.R. Long button which is at the top of a handle that slides over the joystick and clamps on.

Button thread

 

[davesisk]

Ordered!

Well, I decided to go with the electric selector valve. If anyone is interested, here are the Surplus Center part#'s:

9-1782: SAE 6 8gpm 3000 PSI solenoid activated selector valve ($139.50)
9-4634: SAE 6 Male to 1/4" NPT Female swivel fitting (6 of these @ $1.29)

I'll probably still need to put in 6 - 1/4" NPT to 1/4" NPT elbows to mate up to the hoses the way PT does them, but those should be easily available locally (at, say, one of the two local Northern Tool stores).

Thanks for all the help selecting (no pun intended) the correct components, Charlie and MR! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Dave

 

[davesisk]

Re: Picture of thumb switch?

Hey Charlie:

Thanks for the link to the pic. Can I ask one more question about your thumb button? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif How did you get the ball off of the end of the joystick? Does it just unscrew? I'm thinking I'll just find a water-proof switch mount it to the ball somehow. Surface mount would probably be ideal, but most switches are recessed, so I'm wondering if I could just drill a big hole in the ball (you know, trying to make it look all neat and tidy, etc.)

Thx!
Dave

 

[davesisk]

MR:

Have you decided what size cylinder you're going to use? Probably one of the smaller ones, like a 2x6 or 2x8?

Dave

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Re: Picture of thumb switch?

Dave:
The knob on mine unscrewed easily.

I shopped a bit for switches before I decided to go with the pre-fab setup. I couldn't find one that would work for a neat installation, but there surely are a lot more out there. Grainger and a boat store didn't have anything. Push - to - talk buttons for aircraft radios are possible, but current to the solenoid may be a bit much.
Although probably not heavy duty enough, there are a lot of handles with buttons on various game joysticks.
Joystick handles from airplanes are available if you hunt. It's been a bunch of years since I had a Trade-a-Plane, but I'll bet someone on TBN has one and can check for handles with gun triggers, etc.
The joystick on mine is solid. If yours is, maybe you want to cut it off down low and weld a piece of tubing. That opens up all sorts of elegant solutions. Or, if laziness prevail, the handle with button, wires and clamp is a little over $50 at
W. R. Long, Inc.
P.O. Box 460
1607 Cedar St.
Tarboro, NC 27886
800-823-4570
Fax 252-823-4570

 

[MossRoad]

I'm more concerned about the closed dimensions than anything else. I can adjust the link to get the proper throw, but around 8" travel will be just about right.