Electric service to barn

   / Electric service to barn #11  
flusher said:
I have 4/0 copper cable for the hot sides and 3/0 copper cable for the neutral. Total length is about 330 ft.

The garage/shop has 2/0 copper hot sides and 1/0 copper neutral. Total length is about 170 feet.

:eek: :eek: :eek: What was the cost to do that??? :eek: :eek: :eek:

Man, I sure wouldn't announce that in public, you'll have those unruly copper theives digging up your yard. You sure thats not AL wire?
 
   / Electric service to barn #12  
flusher said:
For the 220V/200A service I have 4/0 copper cable for the hot sides and 3/0 copper cable for the neutral. These cables run in 3" dia PVC conduit buried 24" deep. Total length is about 330 ft from the utility pole to the CB box

The garage/shop has 220V/100A service, 100A circuit breakers in the outdoor load center, 2/0 copper hot sides and 1/0 copper neutral also in 3" dia conduit. Total length is about 170 feet from outdoor load center to garage/shop.

So,
for 200A @ 330 ft, you're using 4/0 Copper
for 100A @ 170 ft, you're using 2/0 Copper

That seems backwards to me?

Cliff
 
   / Electric service to barn #13  
Cliff,

Why would that be backwards? 4/0 is bigger in diameter than 2/0 so that would be appropriate for the additional current me thinks.

Alan
 
   / Electric service to barn #14  
well I did this all new 11 years ago. Brought down 7800v primery underground to an on the ground transformer. 400amp meter pan on a panel feeding 2 200 amp outdoor breakers. One for the house, one for the barn. They asked me why, I said if the barn burns down ,shut off the breaker and I can still live in the house. As a vol fireman I learned all about cut off all power to a burning building immediatly. It does not get turned back on so fast. The secondary feeds to both buildings was 4/0 aluminum in 3" plastic conduit. The primery was the strangest thing I ever saw ,single core #2 alum with about 1" of insulation around it and seven bare # 12 alum wires wrapped around that. Turns out the return is earth ground . Transformer takes 1 phase 7800vac and makes 2 phases 180d apart 220 to each other and 110 to ground common with neutral. Did everything myself except set the ground transformer and hook the other end of the primery to the pole out on the road. I am 600 ft off the road. voltage drop at load was too much for 220,hence the 7800 volt primery. I think you can oversize the wire to handle the drop if the drop is not too much, but 600 ft is a lot.
 
   / Electric service to barn #15  
Eric_Phillips said:
What you are planning for your barn is similar to what I am doing now. I am putting up a barn for the wife's horses that will also have tractor storage in half. I plan to have lights and hook up my welder out there. A 100A subpanel off your main service should be more than enough power at the barn.
I am going to run a 100A breaker off the main panel to feed the subpanel in the barn. From the subpanel you can run what ever lights and outlets you want.
What size wire are you going to use for that?
 
   / Electric service to barn
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I talked to my local "expert" here (Crown Electric) after the utility told me (and I thank NYSEG for the honesty) - "You are nuts to put in dedicated service - at commercial rates - but we would be more than happy to do it for you!"

So - here's what I'm planning on - 100AMP breaker in the main panel in the house (honestly didn't know they went bigger than 50 in the double throw configuration - cool!)... 2/0 for the run from the breaker to the barn (about 150' +/- 30 feet) - outside it will be inside 2" conduit... 3 wire run - 2 hots and 1 neutral.
In the barn - there will be a copper ground line run to 2 - 6' grounding rods - 6' apart with a continuous loop back to the sub-panel.
Obviously 100 A sub - with both 220 and 110 circuits off of it.

Only question I have left (right now) is - anything wrong using a 100A "main panel" from Lowes as the sub... they have a deal right now on a scratch and dent unit that comes with 4 - 20A breakers... or - must a sub be a sub?
 
   / Electric service to barn #17  
fishpick said:
Only question I have left (right now) is - anything wrong using a 100A "main panel" from Lowes as the sub... they have a deal right now on a scratch and dent unit that comes with 4 - 20A breakers... or - must a sub be a sub?


Nothing wrong with that.
 
   / Electric service to barn #18  
fishpick said:
I talked to my local "expert" here (Crown Electric) after the utility told me (and I thank NYSEG for the honesty) - "You are nuts to put in dedicated service - at commercial rates - but we would be more than happy to do it for you!"

So - here's what I'm planning on - 100AMP breaker in the main panel in the house (honestly didn't know they went bigger than 50 in the double throw configuration - cool!)... 2/0 for the run from the breaker to the barn (about 150' +/- 30 feet) - outside it will be inside 2" conduit... 3 wire run - 2 hots and 1 neutral.
In the barn - there will be a copper ground line run to 2 - 6' grounding rods - 6' apart with a continuous loop back to the sub-panel.
Obviously 100 A sub - with both 220 and 110 circuits off of it.

Only question I have left (right now) is - anything wrong using a 100A "main panel" from Lowes as the sub... they have a deal right now on a scratch and dent unit that comes with 4 - 20A breakers... or - must a sub be a sub?

One thing I can never remember on suppling power to a separate building on the same property is whether you have to pull in a ground wire also--but it looks like you have this covered with the ground rods. As far as using a "main panel" is concerned, I would suggest to make sure it has a main breaker installed. Some panels have a main breaker factory installed, some are main convertable ( you buy a main breaker that bolts in ), but even if this is not available with the panel you are looking at, you can put in a breaker (100a in this case) and "back-feed" it. That means landing the wires in the lugs of that breaker so that it can limit the current flowing to the panel (or eliminate it in case of a big problem).:eek:
In any case, the helpful people at Lowes should be able to show you what you need to do.
 
   / Electric service to barn #19  
fishpick said:
I talked to my local "expert" here (Crown Electric) after the utility told me (and I thank NYSEG for the honesty) - "You are nuts to put in dedicated service - at commercial rates - but we would be more than happy to do it for you!"

So - here's what I'm planning on - 100AMP breaker in the main panel in the house (honestly didn't know they went bigger than 50 in the double throw configuration - cool!)... 2/0 for the run from the breaker to the barn (about 150' +/- 30 feet) - outside it will be inside 2" conduit... 3 wire run - 2 hots and 1 neutral.
In the barn - there will be a copper ground line run to 2 - 6' grounding rods - 6' apart with a continuous loop back to the sub-panel.
Obviously 100 A sub - with both 220 and 110 circuits off of it.

Only question I have left (right now) is - anything wrong using a 100A "main panel" from Lowes as the sub... they have a deal right now on a scratch and dent unit that comes with 4 - 20A breakers... or - must a sub be a sub?

Home depot has been selling 20 slot Square-D boxes...with a 100 amp main in them AND 5...20 amp 120 breakers included for $58. I just bought one 2 weeks ago.

You dont NEED conduit the full length of your run. I used direct burial (#4 in my case) and ran it in conduit until I got away from the house and deep enough underground..and then ran it in an open trench. Bonded the box to a single ..8 ft long grounding rod driven down to within a foot of being totally buried.
 
   / Electric service to barn #20  
LoganWildman said:
Cliff,

Why would that be backwards? 4/0 is bigger in diameter than 2/0 so that would be appropriate for the additional current me thinks.

Alan

Sorry, I was thinking 4 or 2 AWG. I was thinking that mostly because I would have thought that for 100A @ 170 ft, would have been #2 (or maybe #1), not 2/0 in Copper. I'm not knowledgeable about these things, but 2/0 seems like a lot of extra copper. Does going 170 feet really drop that much to make you go to 2/0?

In any case, it's my mistake,
Cliff
 

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