Electric Sprayer Control

[kthompson]

I need electric sprayer controls for my booms. Have done a good bit of internet looking and find very little info on the capacity of the controller. One says it supplies 8 GPM at a certain pressure only thing is there are three sections to the controller and is that per each solenoid valve or for the three. One for each boom arm and third for the boom behind the tank. That is the most info have been able to get from any source so far. thank you. kt

 

[EddieWalker]

Are they 12 volt? I used a standard light switch for quite awhile, but now I just pull it out of the cigarette lighter to turn it off and plug it in to tour it on. I installed one of my tractor and one on my Mule. Simple, cheap and easy to use

 

[Ed of all trades]

I have been looking at some 12v valves on ebay and for me I was going to use momentary push button switches. Any 12v switches from the auto parts store would work. I was just going to fab a small box to hold my switches. I am doing a smaller system than you but the idea is the same. Ed

 

[boggen]

biggest issue is "max pressure" rating for the valve. you need to find spec's on the pump for max pressure it can produce, and max GPM it can produce. once that info is obtained from pump. then can start looking for valves.

 

[kthompson]

Thanks for the thoughts but let me provide more info, some should have thought of to begin with. Sorry.
This is not a ATV or spot sprayer but a agriculture 500 gallon trailer sprayer with 30 feet of boom. The center boom is about 6 feet wide and the two side booms are about 12 feet long. The reason for the control valve is to select which boom or booms you need to spray on that run through the field for what ever reason.

My current pump has 22 gpm capacity at 850 RPMs and zero pressure but I run 540 rpms at about 60 psi so and the max pressure for the pump is 300. Relief valve is set no higher than 100 psi. The valves have to stand up to tru agriculture chemicals and not be one season use to rebuild or replace.

The following are two I am considering:
Sprayer Control System With 3 Solenoid Valves | Agri Supply, 89768
Electric Sprayer Controls, Sprayer Control System, Solenoid Shutoff | Agri Suppl

Thank you for each comment. kt

 

[EddieWalker]

Always a surprise when somebody on here has some serious equipment and not a home made, good enough, set up!!!

 

[boggen]

if you had an open-station (non-cab). with a PTO pump. that connects direct to pto snub on back of tractor. you could most likely get away with something costing less.



quick connect couplers (banjo coupler) you should be able to find 125PSI versions on the cheap made out of sch 80 pvc.

1/4 turn on/off ball valve. double check they are full port. (when you open them up there is no reduction inside)

manifold needs to be all "metal" any plastic for Tees, 90's, short nipples / pipes = cracking / busting due to simple vibration and a little tugging from hoses. black pipe just appeared first on list. aluminum might work, but unknown about corrosion of agriculture chemicals.

pressure gauges i just picked something. "the very top left guage" = main system pressure gauge. then each boom / wing has its own pressure gauge.

the manifold needing to be metal (pipes / tees / valves) in it. is due to most likely only a couple straps to hold the manifold in place. plastic would just bust out. having sch80 quick connects. *shrugs* you do not need them. but may make things easier, quick connects being plastic. there should be less force being placed on them. more so if you put a couple hanger pipe/hose clamps around them.

a different way of thinking about it... is adding 4 hydraulic rear remotes ((errr 4 water rear remotes)) on tractor.

 

[boggen]

Thanks for the thoughts but let me provide more info, some should have thought of to begin with. Sorry.
This is not a ATV or spot sprayer but a agriculture 500 gallon trailer sprayer with 30 feet of boom. The center boom is about 6 feet wide and the two side booms are about 12 feet long. The reason for the control valve is to select which boom or booms you need to spray on that run through the field for what ever reason.

My current pump has 22 gpm capacity at 850 RPMs and zero pressure but I run 540 rpms at about 60 psi so and the max pressure for the pump is 300. Relief valve is set no higher than 100 psi. The valves have to stand up to tru agriculture chemicals and not be one season use to rebuild or replace.

The following are two I am considering:
Sprayer Control System With 3 Solenoid Valves | Agri Supply, 89768
Electric Sprayer Controls, Sprayer Control System, Solenoid Shutoff | Agri Suppl

Thank you for each comment. kt

are you wanting a completely package? or a full DIY project, buying individual valves, making own wire harness, making own switch area in / on tractor?

the links you noted are either ON or OFF there is no partially opening valve. if spray tank and booms all get going at an angle say going across a hill. the lower spray nozzles going to get more liquid, than the higher spray nozzles (within reason)

===========
if all you want is easy on/off electrical. the couple links you noted in your post. from initial glance look like nice setups. wire harness, plugs for the harnesses, easy mount box that holds switches. looks like it comes within inline fuse and wiring to battery.

to note it: most places "dumb stuff down" when pumping lidquid / air there fittings and pipes and valves. and end result of the dumb'ing stuff down is statements of 8GPM. you can pump more through the fittings / valves but it will take some extra pressure from pump to push through the valves and fittings. more pressure normally means more friction. (end result fittings / valves heat up more "within reason")

if you keep with same size "INSIDE DIAMETER" of connection coming off pump and through valves and hoses. you should be ok. (without getting into niddy griddy math). if pump has 3/4" inside diameter, then keep everything 3/4" inside diameter on your fittings / valves / hoses / pipe. i do not really like giving a blanket statements like this. but *shrugs* KISS (keeping it simply stupid).

 

[kthompson]

Always a surprise when somebody on here has some serious equipment and not a home made, good enough, set up!!!

Too funny. I did buy the rig used and have had to replace the boom but it is true professional rig. This is not my most expensive piece of equipment but maybe the one I am most proud of. If for not other reason really like the 500 gallon tank! My one thought on a sprayer tank this size is consider baffling in the tank to help with stopping a partly filled tank. It will rock my tractor.

boggen As to open station or platform that is what I am using but moving to tractor with cab is reason I am needing to make the change. Current use manual TeeJet selector which works good if you can reach it.

boggen We do not have hilly ground, we are considered flat land so leaning spray is not an issue (unless you drop it in ditch, lol). But I am puzzled by the concern over leaning booms. The nozzles have very specific capacity to them, they are where I always begin in capacity and work backwards to be sure the system's pump and in this case controls with be at least as large as their max need would be. If the pump and valves are sending more the booms than the total of the nozzles on it can handle how does the uphill side get cheated in volume? Not saying it does not happen and it seems you have experience with spraying on slopes or hills.

I was told yesterday the 8 GPM they quote is per valve which will suit my need. I felt it had to be per valve and why they do not tell you that amazes me. Even one of the manufacture's web site does not.

thanks to each of you and if you have other thoughts please do share.

 

[boggen]

i am more use to spray bars in goldfish / pond filter setups, and limited amount of boom setups for sprayers.

water will flow to least resistance path available to it. electricity follows path of least resistance, just like water and air.
other words. if you take a single hose. and T off it for each spray nozzle. the first nozzle most likely get the most water coming out of it. vs the spray nozzle clear out at end of the boom.
when booms get tilted (running across a slope) the lower boom (down hill) will see more water due to path of least resistance, while the upper boom (up hill) the water would need to pump water up higher (causes more resistance) to push the water up to the spray nozzles.

say you ran 20 feet of 3/8" hose from manifold / valves to right wing boom., and then 10 feet of 3/4" hose to left wing boom. the left wing boom will see more water coming out of the boom. (longer the hose = more resistance, smaller inside diameter = more resistance) water flow through path of least resistance. and the left wing has shorter hose and larger inside diameter of hose.

==========
get yourself setup with the new valves. and then fill tank up with just water. run the booms for a few minutes to get any air in the system out. take a kitchen measure container clear (glass or plastic), and put it under each nozzle. and time it for each nozzle, to see how long it takes to fill a few cups worth of water. you may find a boom or nozzle way out of adjustment compared to others.

retry test, at a LOW / MED / HI RPM settings. you will more likely see larger differences at a "high RPM of the PTO pump" you may find issues at low end of the RPM's as well. results may change how spray rig is used / setup / driven.

 

[kthompson]

If you have the same spray nozzles at all locations, have proper size hoses, pump capacity and such the nozzles are the device or point that controls the amount of output. Now if the hoses to one boom or section are undersize, or anything is more restrictive then the nozzles them self then they will not have the amount to them needed so they will be lower capacity. You are suppose to test each nozzle with measuring cup timed to verify they are balanced and to verify the gpm to calculate travel speed. Nozzles do wear and they will reach point they must be replaced.

I have cleaned out many nozzles on long boom with pump running normally and it matters not which nozzle you remove first or last one you will see the output to each nozzle drop.

 

[PILOON]

Can't for the moment recall brand names but electric solenoid valves exist in any voltage and can be had for varied pipe sizes as well as varied seals to handle just about any fluid. You simply need to specify upon ordering.
Generally they draw very low amperage so standard toggle switches are fine as most handle 10 amps easily.
If I can recall brand names I'll re post.*
New stock will probably run +/- $100 but EBay could be a good source.

*ALCO seems to ring a bell.

 

[kthompson]

Piloon, I had not thought of ebay! Maybe cause not sure on options. thank you.

 

[Wood_Butcher_Dav]

Each nozzle assembly as a small pressure switch 9-10 PSI which is minimal operating pressure for the flow tip. The tip is sized to the system and normal operating pressure. There is a look up chart for different colored tips to match the pump output. Say i have 12 tips rated a 0.17 GPM @30 PSI the pump needs to be at least 2 GPM

Dave

 

[boggen]

have you looked at sprinkler control systems? it has been a few years, but many of them were 12V controllers with 12v valves.

How To Wire An Irrigation Valve To An Irrigation Controller just a quick search....

a spray rig is for most part = a portable sprinkler system with multi zones, with some handling fertilizer mixers / tanks in the mix of them.

looking at above site came across BlueSpray Web-Based Internet Controller - Sprinkler Warehouse cell phone used as remote control. denotes independent on/off of zones. even if it requires say a 12v to 110v converter. for the blue box. or even a cheap wireless router *shrugs* plenty of DIY outdoor router setups. mainly just putting a box over router to keep rain and direct sun off of it.

Valves valves

fertilizer kits for sprinkler systems... EZ Flo Main Line Units for Sprinkler System Fertigation errr fill 500 gallon tank with just water. and then add just chemicals to the smaller fertilizer / chemical tank. and adjust dosage as needed.

glancing over the specs, i see most sprinkler fittings / valves, etc... rated for min of 100PSI, with some up to 200 PSI. so ya not going to be going over max PSI. i would imagine all the valves and like are better rated for "outdoor usage" and getting into moisture maybe some drops of water on them.

i did see some 12v and then 24v setups... double check the voltage.

dirt water Valves i would assume pumping water from a lake. and no real good filters in place from all the crud that may come in from a lake / pond.

=================
http://irrigationrepair.com/index.html (forums and a lot of extra other information)

google keywords that brought me above information...
12v 3 zone sprinkler

 

[boggen]

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10456 datasheet denotes 12v i did not run conversion for max pressure rating though

google key words..
12v sprayer controller
returned below results...
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...d=0CIEHEM1KMC1qFQoTCILzjcKghscCFcRbiAodpp0DCA

Boom Valve Single Section Manifold (063-0171-926) - AGRIMART.net

Buy Raven Precision Boom Valve Single Manifold | SpraySmarter.com

12v Remote Control | RunGreen.com

http://www.gemplers.com/product/171...SEPLA&ef_id=VYRnOAAABUDk9cEe:20150731205518:s

old school dip switch style
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...5E4jZDPrnv6lCBltyG71R6-KxBBxGotEwfxoCIHrw_wcB

 

[kthompson]

boggen, will be tonight before I can look at all you have there. BUT thank you very much. kt