Electrical Ground Rods and the Joys of Life

cmuncy · Nov 1, 2005

I am looking on how you folks drive in the 1/2" x 8' ground rods in your area. I honestly have never had any problem until now. I can get this one pushed in with my bucket almost 7 feet then it just doesn't budge.

I prefer not to purchased one of the custom vibrating hammer type drills with the end cap that fits over a ground rod.

Just tell me your storys and how you did it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Inspector507 · Nov 1, 2005

If you only have 12" sticking out, use a sledge hammer. Just put your clamp on first, the head of the rod will mushroom out.
Now if you have 7' sticking out, well.......good luck /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

EddieWalker · Nov 1, 2005

Yup, just need a bigger hammer.

Since I'm not as smart and Inspector, and seem to always pound first, then put the clamp on later, a file works pretty good at getting it back down to size. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I've also found out that the electrical supply shops have clamps that are round and will go over the mushroom head after pounding it in. The box store ones are wedge shaped and need the file.

You're lucky you got it down 7 feet without pounding. I've had to put five ground rods in on my home and workshop. Each one is just a little harder than the previous one. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Eddie

Farwell · Nov 1, 2005

You may have hit a rock. Try pulling the rod back out and driving it a few inches one way or the other.
I have sand on my property so I don't have the problem. When I lived in California the soil was much harder so I would start the drive with a heavy hammer and put a capped 3/4", or larger, water pipe over the top of the rod, get a ladder to stand on and finish the drive with a sledge hammer.
I have also used a 6 foot 1/2 copper pipe that has a nut soldered into the slanted tip. I hook this to a garden hose and use the high pressure water spray to make a hole in the ground. This usually works when all else has failed.
The copper pipe is what I normally use to clean out under side walks to run pipe.
If the above won't work, you can always rent the vibrating hammer.
Good luck.
Farwell

Soundguy · Nov 1, 2005

I'd try the hammer.. or use a pipe sleave. i have a 1' section of pipe that is welded flat/shut on one sid ethat I slip over rods or small t-post to drive them in.. etc.

Soundguy

Onthesauk · Nov 1, 2005

Need to be a little careful using a pipe sleeve. My neighbor's brother was driving a ground rod with a pipe sleeve, slid it up a little too high and the sleeve slipped off, behind the rod. When he drove it down it pulled the rod toward him and drove the rod into his eye socket. Pretty bad but could have been worse. The rod has some flex to it that a steel fence post doesn't.

keeney · Nov 1, 2005

7' sounds good enough to me. Saw it off and put the clamp on. Be sure and discard the sawed-off piece where the inspector won't see it.

The electrrical inspector who approved my house told me that the ground rods don't really do that much anyway - you would need a lot more surface area a lot deeper to handle any serious amount of ground current. The resistance of dry dirt is just too high.

He said they are much more in favor of seeing a good ground connection to the 1" copper water main which is maybe a hundred of feet long and more than 8' deep.

- Rick

BobReeves · Nov 1, 2005

Sounds like my place, 7 foot down is solid rock. Cut the end off and pound it enough to cover up the saw cuts. Inspector will never know the difference.

Buckcreek · Nov 1, 2005

My brother in law was going to cut his off , He got about 5' down and hit solid rock . He got out the saw and was just getting ready to cut, and the inspector showed up . LOL. He said dont tell me your going to cut that ground rod short. He said if you would have been a 5 minutes later he would have never knew about it... HE made him pull it back out and watched him drive it all the way in...... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif