Electrical Problem on Scotts s2554

[Pablorock]

Hello all. Just joined and first post. I have a Scotts s2554 and had some smoke when I tried to re-start it. At first I thought it was just an old smoking kohler (think I need head gaskets) but it started to get a bit thicker. Thought maybe a fire from some critter stuff, but then a wire burned out. The smoke was coming out of the rear of the engine. The starter was the only thing electric I can see there, but pulled and tested and seems to run fine. The wire that burned out was a thin green one coming off the Pos terminal going into 2 reds. I have never worked on a small engine, and really know nothing about them (aside from what I致e been reading in the last couple of days). I am fairly handy and work on my cars regularly, but don稚 know much about electric. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (my lawn is really tall). It痴 a Kohler CV25S/69539.

Thanks. Paul.

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN

Let's start with the numbers off the Kohler engine.. then use these number to search for more info.

Add some good pics of the suspected problem wire and as much history that you can recall.

 

[Pablorock]

What numbers do you need? All I can find on the engine is that it is a Kohler CV725S/69539 (The owners manual calls it a CV25S. The other sticker is worn out). As for a pic, there is not much left to take a pic of.

But I just checked more closely, and the little piece that is left says from what I can make out "fuselink 18g", so apparently it is a fuse. Also after a ton of searching and reading, I found something about the Stator (didn't know what a stator was before now). Checked the resistance between the two leads and it seems to measure 0, so that may be what has burned up. Just need to figure out how to pull the flywheel (don’t have a puller).

As far as history, I just mowed part of the lawn and turned it off. It was smoking a bit (normally does because I think I need new gaskets), and tried to start it again. Then it started smoking a lot and burned out that wire (fuse). Unhooked the battery as quickly as I could, it’s been sitting since then (that was last week). I have searched and searched and found a few things, but since it is one of the Home Depot exclusives that only ran for a few years, not much info out there. (bought it almost new in 02 I think for $1k off since it was the one the HD used as the grass cutter for the store).

 

[tomplum]

So yes, if the stator is shot pull the flywheel before ordering parts. Quite a few of these had magnets that would come loose from the flywheel and damage the stator. Welcome to the forum.

 

[Pablorock]

Thanks. Going to pull it apart and give it shot.

 

[Richard001]

Thanks. Going to pull it apart and give it shot.

You will do yourself a big favor by down loading the service manual for this engine. A quick Google search here: kohler cv25s service manual produced a manual that you can down load and save.

Richard

 

[Richard001]

Before you start taking this apart, do these test as described in the Manual. I have attached page 47 that shows what and how to test the stator.

As you my note in the jpeg I attached, you will have to have a good ohm meter in order to know if the stator is shorted or not. Also check for short to ground from one the stator leads. I should read in the mega-ohm range or grater. (note: you can't hold the meter leads in your hand while measuring from stator to ground.)



Richard

 

[Pablorock]

Thanks for the help. I pulled the flywheel and the stator does not look good at all (half if black). Also, parts of a magnet is still attached to the stator when I pulled the flywheel. Can I get just the magnets, or do I need buy a whole new flywheel? The magnets are also all loose on the flywheel. Here's a pic of the stator. (doesn't look like I will be mowing my lawn soon). (Also, I did find the service manual, and gave it a test which lead me to believe it was the stator).

 

[Richard001]

Yep, not good. Guess you found the problem. Good work.

 

[tomplum]

The cause was the flywheel. You could clean up the flywheel, get rid of all the magnet bits from the engine, tend to the outside electrical damage from the engine and run it. You would need to keep after the battery by charging it. You could also buy a stator 237878-S and an ASAM conversion kit 24755308S which has the flywheel and new ignition set up .

 

[Pablorock]

I was wondering if the magnet coming apart could have caused the problem. You can see 2 pieces still attached to the stator. Aside from the fusible link, I don't see any other wires cooked at all.

 

[Pablorock]

The cause was the flywheel. You could clean up the flywheel, get rid of all the magnet bits from the engine, tend to the outside electrical damage from the engine and run it. You would need to keep after the battery by charging it. You could also buy a stator 237878-S and an ASAM conversion kit 24755308S which has the flywheel and new ignition set up .

Was wondering if I could just run it without the charging system. I may just try that. Did find the stator on amazon, but I would assume the magnets need to be replaced since one is in a few pieces.

 

[tomplum]

You can certainly run without the charging system. In some of the things that you said, you may not be interested in putting the repair $$ into this ride. Your uses for the battery are 1) powering the starter motor 2) powering the carburetor solenoid 3) powering the PTO clutch. So once you are running, #2 and 3 will generally hold out until you tip under 10.5 volts or so. That is typically a fair amount of mowing. Charge the battery when you are done mowing and you're ready for next. Over time this may sour the battery. I've had people do this for a couple years just to get by until they bought the next rider. YMMV depending on how good your battery is and how large your yard is.

Should you wish to replace the flywheel, you have to use the correct one for your ignition system. I mentioned the ASAM conversion kit because it is less expensive than a service flywheel and plus it updates the ignition system.

 

[Pablorock]

I will probably try to get it running without the charge and go with the conversion kit when I have some time (I can mow my lawn today. It's not that large and can get it done in less than 20mins). Where I normally park it it is close enough to hook my trickle on it (which I do fairly regularly anyway). For that kit do you keep the same stator? (or is it something totally different). Again, I really know nothing about these small engines. Luckily I have a couple of friends with outboards that have been helpful. Will just cutting out the bad stator and removing the magnets work?
Thanks for all the help.

 

[tomplum]

The conversion kit has the 2 coils, new flywheel and ignition harness. The stator is a separate item. When I do these, I replace the regulator too when the old stator has shorted. Otherwise remove the stator, magnet bits and magnet remnants in the flywheel -reinstall the flywheel w/ key and your ready to go.

 

[Pablorock]

I pulled all the bits and pieces out and it seem to run ok. Did two mows recharging in between (lawn is not all that big). The trickle charger recharged fully in less than 20 mins, so I can probably do the whole lawn in 1 shot. I will search out all the parts and fix it as soon as I can. Thanks for the help (I'll report back when I do).