Electrical sub-panel question

[johncanfield]

I have two outbuildings fed from two different load centers on two different meters. I read up on the code about sub panels in separate structures - my understanding is they needed a separate ground rod which mine didn't have. Got that squared away.

 

[RustyA]

Meter on outside of house right? Garage wall on outside of house? Trench from main panel to dedicated garage subpanel with separate ground might work better?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Rob, so I understand correctly: Assuming 40 amps, I would have to pull an 8/2 (or 8/3), and the grounding and neutral wires could not be in the same Romex assembly?

All wires must be in the same enclosure (cable/conduit) per NEC. Ground can be bare wire. Recommend anything #6 or less be copper not aluminum, there is an ampacity difference and the corrosion compound with Alum.

Ron

 

[BrokenTrack]

I ground the living crap out of everything.

Ground rods are cheap.
Ground clamps are cheap.
Ground wire is cheap, and so it is just darn cheap insurance overall.

I have never once looked at a sub-panel and thought, "You know, I am so glad I never grounded that sub-panel".

 

[BrokenTrack]

One thing with these kinds of projects, things really seem to be a nightmare because you cannot see stuff...like inside of walls, and going through drywall. But once the drywall is cut, you gain access, and everything is easy to do, and then there is just the matter of putting the drywall back.

Patching drywall is not that hard.

My favorite trick is to use a 4 inch hole saw. That gives me enough room to stick my hand in the wall and move wires into place. Then I save the circle cut-out for later. I take some strapping (1 x 3 lumber) and bridge the hole (cut 6" long), add some screws outside the hole to hold the board inside the wall cavity, then add some screws to hold the cut-out drywall circle to the strapping, then patch and paint.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I would recommend going to at least 50 amps as well.

BUT...with welders you can get by with less. That is because homeowner welders have a duty cycle on them, so they cut-out before wiring overheats by their very nature, so you can get by with less amperage or wire size. The welder outlet should have a warning label on it though saying "Welder Use Only".

I would go to 100 amps though just because if you got to cut into the walls, you minds well go big or not do it at all. That way if you want a back up, or standby generator down the road, you will have the ability to tap into that.

But that is the problem with these projects, the idea of doing it once can mean doing a lot (and a lot of expense).

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I would recommend going to at least 50 amps as well.

BUT...with welders you can get by with less. That is because homeowner welders have a duty cycle on them, so they cut-out before wiring overheats by their very nature, so you can get by with less amperage or wire size. The welder outlet should have a warning label on it though saying "Welder Use Only".

I would go to 100 amps though just because if you got to cut into the walls, you minds well go big or not do it at all. That way if you want a back up, or standby generator down the road, you will have the ability to tap into that.

But that is the problem with these projects, the idea of doing it once can mean doing a lot (and a lot of expense).

Now you are talking my problem: "Project Creep"

Ron

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I ground the living crap out of everything.

Ground rods are cheap.
Ground clamps are cheap.
Ground wire is cheap, and so it is just darn cheap insurance overall.

I have never once looked at a sub-panel and thought, "You know, I am so glad I never grounded that sub-panel".

Grounding is a most misunderstood element of electrical work. I always refer to the Apprentice School Textbook "Soares Book on Grounding and Bonding". Available at Amazon. That and one of the good books on DIY electrical work get me through most situations w/o digging out the NEC. There is a situation that extra grounding can create a "Ground Loop" which can be detrimental to electronic equipment especially.

Ron

 

[radios1]

also, make sure your lighting can't go out if the welder circuit is tripped!. it's very dangerous to be working, and have your lights go out!..

 

[sodamo]

Now you are talking my problem: "Project Creep"

Ron

Mine as well. Might start out simple, but rarely stay that way. Wife says I have a tendency to overdue things.
Probably like my current sunshade project which now has mirrors, front and rear cameras, usb outlet, internet antenna. Probably good thing I don’t work at night so I don’t add lights. Still debating if speakers would be better than my headphones