ENGINE GETS RED HOT

   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #41  
If this engine was just rebuilt you might want to look for a rag left in the rad hose or rad.
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #42  
The "water flows too fast through the radiator to give up heat" statement is an myth. The thermostat acts as a variable restrictor to flow and since there is a pump on the other end of the block, the pressure in the block rises. (This isn't a small increase in pressure either). This increase in pressure prevents the formation of small, localized steam pockets. Removing the thermostat removes the restriction and doesn't allow the pressure in the engine to rise enough to prevent the formation of the steam pockets. Any place where there is a small little steam pocket, there is very little transfer of heat. The metal reaches a higher and higher temperature and in the areas where there is transfer, the coolant raised to much higher temperatures. The effect cascades. A fast flow will scrub off steam bubbles as they appear in the hottest parts of the engine before they have a chance to congregate into an impenetrable steam pocket.
Localized heating may also cause detonation in gas engines, which in itself can also quickly cause overheating.

Years ago a company that specialized in making water pumps for racers did some tests to optimize their pumps for the application and they built their own test systems to accurately measure exactly what was happening rather than rely on the beliefs of others. They measured the flow rates, pressures in various parts of an engine and the temperatures involved plus a few other things. Quite involved. One thing that I remember very well is their finding that you could not flow the coolant through the radiator too fast! Too slow, yes, too fast, no! A slow flow allows laminar flow to occur which means the outside of the coolant flowing through a tube remains in contact with the tube and the inner center portion doesn't. That means the inner portion does not give up heat as well since it is insulated by the outer portion of coolant. A faster flow induces turbulence which means all the coolant directly touches the radiator tube and therefore more heat is transferred.

As a wise man once said..."Don't believe everything you know."
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #43  
First, what does that mean? "it got red hot" It could mean that the exhaust manifold got literally red hot from a stuck open fuel injector. It could mean that the coolant started to steam / boil from a bad water pump. It could mean the T-stat was put in upside down (a VERY common mistake). It "could" mean nearly anything --> even that it was running so good it was "red hot"!

Please add more detail and I'm sure the people here can figure it out.

Ford Tractor

BINGO! The description is not good enough. It sounds like someone put their hand on it to see if it was too hot. Need to put a gauge on it to be sure.
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #44  
We need more info about the specifics of this particular situation to help from here in. Ken Sweet
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #45  
That means the inner portion does not give up heat as well since it is insulated by the outer portion of coolant. A faster flow induces turbulence which means all the coolant directly touches the radiator tube and therefore more heat is transferred.

That defies several laws of Physics, since it's ALL coolant, and incapable of "insulating" itself

Heat transfers faster through a liquid than a solid, and flows from hot to cool whether there is turbulence or not.

In fact the heat transfer itself causes convection currents
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #46  
The only reason the engine will over heat with the stat out is that the problem wasn't the stat in the first place

if the engine isn't moving coolant or the rad is the prob

lets face it when the engine gets above to operating temp the stat OPENS to allow coolant to flow around the radiator then when the rad has done its job the stat closes or restricts the flow

so open is more cooling than closed

Anyway i rebuilt an old landrover engine a few years back and my brother and dad fired her up the first time and told me it was to hot so stopped it turned out that it was just the new paint on the block if it smells hot that doesnt mean it is only a good temp guage will tell you for sure

and there is allways a bit oil some were that needs a min or to to burn off:thumbsup:
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #47  
An engine that is lightly loaded , a pickup for example with a Thermostat removed will run cold and experience cylinder glazing .

An engine that is worked hard like a semi pulling up a steep grade with no Thermostat will run hot . It is a fact that the extremely hot combustion process super heats the water around the cylinder liners and head , the water is circulating too fast and does not spend enough time in the radiator core to allow dissipation to fully occur . This already hot water then goes back to the block and gets another dose of heat so the problem increases exponentially until it overheats .

If a Thermostat fails , do not remove it completely , instead remove the center section and put the outer disc back in place . This will give you the correct size orifice which slows the flow to that of an open Thermostat , the engine will just take longer to warm up . This is only to get you home , replace with the correct temp unit to suit your climate as soon as possible .

Make sure the Thermostat is installed the correct way , the bulb faces the engine and the heated water . I have seen them in back too front , the bulb is in the cold side and will not open and the engine will boil .
 
Last edited:
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #49  
There are two issues here. The "red hot" engine and thermostat theory.

I am responding to some of the statements about thermotats.

The thermostat "controls" the temp of the engine. If it ever does get fully open, it is a similar situation to not being there at all. In other words, no stat equals wide open stat, which equals maximum cooling.

There is no such thing as having to let the water sit in the block to remove the maximum amount of heat. Fast turbulent flow with a minimum increase in temp per pass removes the maximum energy from the engine. This is because turbulent flow exposes more of the water to the hot surface and breaks up the film of water next to the surface. It flows in areas that might not if the volume is very low. It is also because maximum heat transfer occurs with the greatest differential in temperatures. This is basic physics. A hotter surface flows more BTUs to a colder fluid than to a hotter fluid.

Remember, we are not trying to heat the water, we are trying to cool the engine, that is once the engine is up to temp. The colder the outflowing water is, the more energy removed. You get cooler outflow by increasing the volume. BTUs is stated in volume and temp difference. Another way of looking at it is to imagine if the water enters the engine cool and exits hot. Some of the block is exposed to cool water and some of it is exposed to hot water. The hot water will remove less energy because the block and water are closer to each other in temp. The water can only go to it's boiling point and then it cannot except anymore energy (past the latent heat of fusion) before it simply becomes steam and practically worthless as a coolant.

Bottom line is the engine will run colder with no thermostat. Often much colder and not last as long or run as efficiently. It cannot ever come up to temp unless working hard. It's always running at max cooling.
 
   / ENGINE GETS RED HOT #50  
On the thermostat issue, this is how I learned it from a NASCAR engine team (I have had the good fortune of being around them a number of times)...

The thermostat is designed to heat an engine first, then control cooling. All thermostats do not flow at 100%, they have a certain amount of restriction.

This restriction is beneficial at the coolant pump, it keeps the pump from cavitating. Yes, engine can overheat from not having a thermostat (but you would have to be running a very high RPM machine) none the less it can and does happen.

Carl
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2842 (A54757)
2842 (A54757)
2018 FORD F-450 XL FLATBED TRUCK (A51406)
2018 FORD F-450 XL...
2014 VOLVO EC220 DL EXCAVATOR (A51406)
2014 VOLVO EC220...
2018 John Deere 470G LC Hydraulic Excavator (A53421)
2018 John Deere...
2022 Forest River Cherokee Grey Wolf 26BRB Patriotic Edition 32ft. T/A Travel Trailer (A51694)
2022 Forest River...
2014 CATERPILLAR TL642C TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51246)
2014 CATERPILLAR...
 
Top