Engine loses power

[jimjumper]

My 8N, front mount distributer, 6V stumbles on the slightest uphill and will die if the incline is steep enough or long enough. Nothing changes on a downhill. I recently put a new carb on it since it sat for some years as well as a new fuel line. My first inclination is/was the governor and when I checked I noticed the linkage rod from the governor to the carburatuer has about 1/2" of slack. Thats a bad description but what I have is the linkage rod is not seated in the spring connectors but is loose and can slide back and forth between the 2 connectors. I assume it should be a solid linkage? My other thought was that maybe the carb floats weren't moving when the tractor went uphill and it was starving for fuel but would correct itself on flat ground. Do either of those things make any sense or am I just guessing? The tractor runs great otherwise but hit a good uphill bump and it will cough a couple times and then go right back to running right. Anything steeper and it will continue to sputter or die.

 

[Roadworthy]

I would start by making sure the float is adjusted within limits and the needle valve is free to move, not sticking.

 

[EdGooding]

My 8N, front mount distributer, 6V stumbles on the slightest uphill and will die if the incline is steep enough or long enough. Nothing changes on a downhill. I recently put a new carb on it since it sat for some years as well as a new fuel line. My first inclination is/was the governor and when I checked I noticed the linkage rod from the governor to the carburatuer has about 1/2" of slack. Thats a bad description but what I have is the linkage rod is not seated in the spring connectors but is loose and can slide back and forth between the 2 connectors. I assume it should be a solid linkage? My other thought was that maybe the carb floats weren't moving when the tractor went uphill and it was starving for fuel but would correct itself on flat ground. Do either of those things make any sense or am I just guessing? The tractor runs great otherwise but hit a good uphill bump and it will cough a couple times and then go right back to running right. Anything steeper and it will continue to sputter or die.

It sounds like float to me. That is the first thing I would check. Do you have an owner's manual? It has instructions on setting float height and adjusting the governor rods. I can post the info here if you do not have one.

 

[John0829]

Sounds to me like ignition... more good fuel systems have been screwed up by a bad ignition. Check to be sure you a snappy blue spark, if it is yellow there's yer problem.

 

[jimjumper]

Sounds to me like ignition... more good fuel systems have been screwed up by a bad ignition. Check to be sure you a snappy blue spark, if it is yellow there's yer problem.
to me like ignition... more good fuel systems have been screwed up by a bad ignition. Check to be sure you a snappy blue spark, if it is yellow there's yer problem.

I checked the floats and they looked fine. Throttle linkage and governor linkage looked fine. Put it back together and went to drive it around with similar results, any slight uphill causes it to stutter and cough and then die. BUT! when it died, I restarted at idle and then throttled up halfway and backed down to level ground. No problems. Got curious and backed up a much steeper hill and it had full power all the way up! Did it 3 more times with full power each time. I could hear the governor apply power as it climbed so I don't think the governor is the problem anymore and it likely isn't ignition so I am left with carb or fuel? Any idea what to check to find out why I have power uphill in reverse and not nose first? It has me baffled.

 

[CalG]

Is the fuel tank full?

 

[alexpops]

check the fuel pickup tube in the tank for a hole/corrosion/crack.

 

[careyo63]

My 63 2000 had a dirt-debris problem from the fuel tank. Showing up in the bottom of my Glass sediment fuel bowl. looked like fuel tank rust along with the fuel valve itself was leaking. Cleaned and placed the valve and lines and it finally quit showing up. Took a while cleaning the sediment bowl several times and it pretty much stays clean with hardly any dirt showing up in the bowl. The shop who split it warned me to keep an eye on it. They replaced the fuel valve. My tank would pressure up also. That seemed odd but you could hear it opening up the fuel cap. I drilled a hole in it and made sure it vented!! New Carburetor kit could be possible?
IMO. I would remove and clean the carburetor Esp. the fuel bowl, float, needle etc... The Elec. Sys. sounds as though it's working ASIS.

 

[jimjumper]

Filled it with gas and no difference. It did have 3.5 gals so i don't think that was it. It has a brand new gas tank but I used the old cap. I'll try a different cap and then start backtracking thru the fuel shut off (also new) and then the carb.

 

[gstrom99]

Does that have the mixture adjustment screw on the bottom? Maybe it's running way lean.

I went through three "new" carbs on my 9N before I got a good one. They're really a simple device, but the original one was cracked so I had no option to rebuild it. 12 volt and electronic ignition conversions sure made it more reliable too.