engine seized or hydraulic lock?

[C4Ranch]

I'd for sure eliminate all those things before I started disassembling the tractor/engine.

Good lord yes. Check the easy stuff. I can't believe it's engine related IF you put right amount of oil in, etc, etc...

 

[Peter Will]

Hi, there is no opening in valve cover to put oil in,you would have to take hood off. I managed to get at the front glow plug out today, but cannot remove it, the intake manifold is preventing it's removal.I did get the front injector out and looked down,piston had very little carbon on top. I was unable to see cly walls on the front one because the piston is at rhe top.It is Is also in the wayvery hard to get at the glow plugs and injectoes and glow plugs because of the intake manifold I am goingto take it off to get at the other two injectors. I have noticed some shiny something exposed behind to crank pully,like the crank moved forwards.I saw this before trying to move crank nut.I am not sure this nut controls backlash on the crank or not.I am takeing pictures but cannot figure out how to post them.Anyway still waiting for a shop manual to see if transmission and related hydraulic system can be isolated. I had just dug out four out of 10 broken 14 x1.5 bolts that mount fel to the engine or bell housing I cannot tell because tractor has a cuttis cab on it and is also in the way of everything, So bare with my slow posrs you are not talking to a white screen I am here,and thanks for all your advise

 

[Grandad4]

Sounds like you have a real handful there. Loader (busted mounting bolts, no less), Curtis cab, old-style engine compartment, etc. Have you popped the starter off yet? That's a likely culprit (jammed Bendix, starter motor itself seized up, etc.). Might save you working on the engine itself.

 

[powerstroke444e]

When you replaced loader bolts if they are to long they will hit the flywheel and not let the engine turn over? kiss start with last thing you did and work backwards.

 

[Peter Will]

Great idea I will back them off,still waiting for manual thanks again! You were right, you are a very smart man,and I admire your thougt process. I did buy new bolts and could only get 70 mm long I measured the depth and judged according. I diid not want them to bottom out or use locktight so if they break again I will be able to prick punch them out instead of drilling.I guess I measured to the flywheel without thinking where those through holes went.I know now.Now to put it back together and wait for snow.Thank you so much, you made my holidays, I wish you would send me your adress so I could send you a small gift. Thank you again sir, Peter Will

 

[GPintheMitten]

So it was the loader bolts?

 

[JRobyn]

Rut-roh! If it WAS the loader bolts, sounds like they have forced the crank so hard as to physically move it enough in the block to reveal "polished" areas on the crank pulley. This might have caused problems in other areas like thrust bearings, main seals, or rods.

- Jay

 

[Leejohn]

If he can back the bolt out, he should be ok but should check flywheel teeth.This should be something not to forget and maybe should check our bolts.

 

[Peter Will]

No, one loader mounting bolt went through the engine casting to bind the flywheel.I had a One inch drive 3 foot breaker on the crank shaft pully nut and could not budge it.This would be a great theif deterrent..and after backing off on the fel belly mounting bolts I could almost turn it by pulling the alternater belt if it did not slip because it is a bit loose.I cannot stress enough to back track as what you. did before the problem occurred. Thank you everyone for you help with my brain fart.

 

[ovrszd]

Along with the KISS principle logic needs to be applied as in, what did I change on the tractor since it last ran. In the original post the OP never mentioned replacing bolts. This has been the standard "Goose Chase".

Hopefully he didn't do more damage.