Enhancing a tree platform

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

There is an 8x8 ft deck about 10 feet above ground, supported by two trees and two 4x4 in legs, on a hillside above a meadow in the middle of my property. In the past I cobbled a hunting blind atop it out of ropes and a tarp, but it really needs a roof and sides and a gunrest and a shooting window (and a carpet and some comfy chairs and a coffee maker and a flatscreen TV and ...

). The first step was to replace the original 4"x4"x10' front legs, which were flush with the floor, with 4x4x16' legs that could support a roof.

Here is the original setup, before this project:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...39d1349063932-enhancing-tree-platform-002.jpg

The tractor served as a lumber hauler, tool carrier, and temporary jack. I put the 4x4x16' posts along one side of the tractor, supported in front by the FEL bucket and in back by a pipe clamped to the ROPS. This idea came from TBN. Shorter pieces of lumber to be used later were tied to the long 4x4s. The FEL bucket carried all my tools and fasteners:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...40d1349064248-enhancing-tree-platform-003.jpg

Next I parked the tractor under the platform to use the FEL as a temporary support. I chocked the wheels with large rocks (plentiful on my property!) and lowered the box blade for extra stability:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...41d1349064504-enhancing-tree-platform-004.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...42d1349064606-enhancing-tree-platform-005.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...43d1349064893-enhancing-tree-platform-006.jpg

I used a water level made from a 2-liter soda bottle, 1-hole rubber cork, yardstick, rubber bands, food-colored water and 100 feet of polyethylene tubing. It is simple to use and completely reliable over long distances:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...44d1349065045-enhancing-tree-platform-007.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...45d1349065172-enhancing-tree-platform-008.jpg

With the FEL holding up the platform, I removed one leg, replaced it with the longer post, drilled pilot holes and lag-screwed the new leg in place:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...46d1349065331-enhancing-tree-platform-009.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...47d1349065549-enhancing-tree-platform-010.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...48d1349065619-enhancing-tree-platform-012.jpg

Then I did the same to the other side:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...49d1349065752-enhancing-tree-platform-016.jpg

Here are the "After" photos, from the platform and from the ground:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...50d1349065839-enhancing-tree-platform-015.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...51d1349065974-enhancing-tree-platform-017.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52d1349066049-enhancing-tree-platform-018.jpg

This was a good checkpoint, so I called it a day. These pictures don't show some of the more time-consuming steps like pulling the old posts out of the holes, which then had to be dug out or filled to get the new posts to the right depth. Also, the FEL lift and curl were both used to get fine height adjustments before the platform was attached to the new legs. At no time did I work under the loader, and the ladder always had a good brace to lean against.

The posts rise 6'2" above the platform which is high enough for me, but I may add a header before putting up the roof to make room for my taller friends.

lutt · Oct 1, 2012

Lookn good, what in the world would a guy do without a loader! I dont know what you got in mind,but a little insulation goes a long way in a deer stand, the carpet will do the floor, but you might think about the sides and roof,I know the wind up in that country gets cold when u guys have a bad winter. Regardless of what u do, shapn up to be a nice lookn deer stand. LUTT

Artisan · Oct 1, 2012

I see all the pics as attachments but all the links
in the text are dead...
Shall I stop by and plumb in a WC for ya? maybe
just bolt a closet ring to the floor and lether rip? :confused3:

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

lutt said:
Lookn good, what in the world would a guy do without a loader! I dont know what you got in mind,but a little insulation goes a long way in a deer stand, the carpet will do the floor, but you might think about the sides and roof,I know the wind up in that country gets cold when u guys have a bad winter. Regardless of what u do, shapn up to be a nice lookn deer stand. LUTT

Thanks for the insulation idea!

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

Artisan said:
I see all the pics as attachments but all the links
in the text are dead...

Thanks, the links in the text now point to the image attachments rather than the thumbnails.

Artisan said:
Shall I stop by and plumb in a WC for ya? maybe
just bolt a closet ring to the floor and lether rip? :confused3:

:laughing:

lutt · Oct 2, 2012

Keep the pics coming when you work on it some more, love to see peoples deer stands. You always seem to see something you can do to the next one for improvement.LUTT

MikeA57 · Oct 4, 2012

Hmmmmm, you're givin' me ideas here MVW! Looks real good. Keep us updated!

DKCDKC · Oct 4, 2012

I've got the best of all worlds. My tree stand is the deck on the back of my house. I can reach out and touch (with my Remington) deer and the occasional coyote right from there - early and late. I have to hoof it for anything else. But I like this stand. With walls, roof and creature comforts, it would be a nice place to get away for the day... Heck, it's big enough to put in a LazyBoy for those in-between times.

mvwicker · Oct 8, 2012

Had some more time this weekend to work on the tree platform. Today's task was to add a lintel spanning the two front posts, then build a frame to support the roof.

Step one was to drill a 3/4" hole in the center of each post for the spikes that will anchor the lintel, or crosspiece:

Next, drill two 3/4" holes at the ends of the lintel and drop it in place:

Lastly, the roof structure is assembled on the platform and carefully raised to rest between the spikes, before its back end is lag-screwed to the tree:

The protruding spikes will keep the roof structure from sliding off to the side. Attachment to the tree will keep it from sliding off to the front or back, but it will be able to move to accommodate bending and swaying in the wind.

The roof is a box made of 2x6 treated lumber joined with 1/2"x5" galvanized lag screws. The front-to-back pieces are 10' long and the cross pieces are 88" long to accommodate the particular spacing between my trees. They are spaced for two sheets of plywood which will hold the shingles. I believe I can do all the roofing from the current position, then tilt the whole assembly up and fasten it to the trees.

ericher69 · Oct 9, 2012

mvwicker said:
Had some more time this weekend to work on the tree platform. Today's task was to add a lintel spanning the two front posts, then build a frame to support the roof.

Step one was to drill a 3/4" hole in the center of each post for the spikes that will anchor the lintel, or crosspiece:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283540"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283541"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283542"/>

Next, drill two 3/4" holes at the ends of the lintel and drop it in place:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283543"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283544"/>

Lastly, the roof structure is assembled on the platform and carefully raised to rest between the spikes, before its back end is lag-screwed to the tree:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283545"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283546"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283547"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283548"/>
The protruding spikes will keep the roof structure from sliding off to the side. Attachment to the tree will keep it from sliding off to the front or back, but it will be able to move to accommodate bending and swaying in the wind.

The roof is a box made of 2x6 treated lumber joined with 1/2"x5" galvanized lag screws. The front-to-back pieces are 10' long and the cross pieces are 88" long to accommodate the particular spacing between my trees. They are spaced for two sheets of plywood which will hold the shingles. I believe I can do all the roofing from the current position, then tilt the whole assembly up and fasten it to the trees.

I envy you! How many acres if you don't mind me asking?

You may want to think of a temp "safety" railing made out of 2x4" cross piece about 42" up. I'd hate to hear that you fell off.

Responded to many calls where hunters fall from their stands.

Keep up the good work

Eric