Enhancing a tree platform

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

There is an 8x8 ft deck about 10 feet above ground, supported by two trees and two 4x4 in legs, on a hillside above a meadow in the middle of my property. In the past I cobbled a hunting blind atop it out of ropes and a tarp, but it really needs a roof and sides and a gunrest and a shooting window (and a carpet and some comfy chairs and a coffee maker and a flatscreen TV and ...

). The first step was to replace the original 4"x4"x10' front legs, which were flush with the floor, with 4x4x16' legs that could support a roof.

Here is the original setup, before this project:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...39d1349063932-enhancing-tree-platform-002.jpg

The tractor served as a lumber hauler, tool carrier, and temporary jack. I put the 4x4x16' posts along one side of the tractor, supported in front by the FEL bucket and in back by a pipe clamped to the ROPS. This idea came from TBN. Shorter pieces of lumber to be used later were tied to the long 4x4s. The FEL bucket carried all my tools and fasteners:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...40d1349064248-enhancing-tree-platform-003.jpg

Next I parked the tractor under the platform to use the FEL as a temporary support. I chocked the wheels with large rocks (plentiful on my property!) and lowered the box blade for extra stability:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...41d1349064504-enhancing-tree-platform-004.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...42d1349064606-enhancing-tree-platform-005.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...43d1349064893-enhancing-tree-platform-006.jpg

I used a water level made from a 2-liter soda bottle, 1-hole rubber cork, yardstick, rubber bands, food-colored water and 100 feet of polyethylene tubing. It is simple to use and completely reliable over long distances:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...44d1349065045-enhancing-tree-platform-007.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...45d1349065172-enhancing-tree-platform-008.jpg

With the FEL holding up the platform, I removed one leg, replaced it with the longer post, drilled pilot holes and lag-screwed the new leg in place:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...46d1349065331-enhancing-tree-platform-009.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...47d1349065549-enhancing-tree-platform-010.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...48d1349065619-enhancing-tree-platform-012.jpg

Then I did the same to the other side:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...49d1349065752-enhancing-tree-platform-016.jpg

Here are the "After" photos, from the platform and from the ground:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...50d1349065839-enhancing-tree-platform-015.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...51d1349065974-enhancing-tree-platform-017.jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52d1349066049-enhancing-tree-platform-018.jpg

This was a good checkpoint, so I called it a day. These pictures don't show some of the more time-consuming steps like pulling the old posts out of the holes, which then had to be dug out or filled to get the new posts to the right depth. Also, the FEL lift and curl were both used to get fine height adjustments before the platform was attached to the new legs. At no time did I work under the loader, and the ladder always had a good brace to lean against.

The posts rise 6'2" above the platform which is high enough for me, but I may add a header before putting up the roof to make room for my taller friends.

lutt · Oct 1, 2012

Lookn good, what in the world would a guy do without a loader! I dont know what you got in mind,but a little insulation goes a long way in a deer stand, the carpet will do the floor, but you might think about the sides and roof,I know the wind up in that country gets cold when u guys have a bad winter. Regardless of what u do, shapn up to be a nice lookn deer stand. LUTT

Artisan · Oct 1, 2012

I see all the pics as attachments but all the links
in the text are dead...
Shall I stop by and plumb in a WC for ya? maybe
just bolt a closet ring to the floor and lether rip? :confused3:

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

lutt said:
Lookn good, what in the world would a guy do without a loader! I dont know what you got in mind,but a little insulation goes a long way in a deer stand, the carpet will do the floor, but you might think about the sides and roof,I know the wind up in that country gets cold when u guys have a bad winter. Regardless of what u do, shapn up to be a nice lookn deer stand. LUTT

Thanks for the insulation idea!

mvwicker · Oct 1, 2012

Artisan said:
I see all the pics as attachments but all the links
in the text are dead...

Thanks, the links in the text now point to the image attachments rather than the thumbnails.

Artisan said:
Shall I stop by and plumb in a WC for ya? maybe
just bolt a closet ring to the floor and lether rip? :confused3:

:laughing:

lutt · Oct 2, 2012

Keep the pics coming when you work on it some more, love to see peoples deer stands. You always seem to see something you can do to the next one for improvement.LUTT

MikeA57 · Oct 4, 2012

Hmmmmm, you're givin' me ideas here MVW! Looks real good. Keep us updated!

mvwicker · Oct 8, 2012

Had some more time this weekend to work on the tree platform. Today's task was to add a lintel spanning the two front posts, then build a frame to support the roof.

Step one was to drill a 3/4" hole in the center of each post for the spikes that will anchor the lintel, or crosspiece:

Next, drill two 3/4" holes at the ends of the lintel and drop it in place:

Lastly, the roof structure is assembled on the platform and carefully raised to rest between the spikes, before its back end is lag-screwed to the tree:

The protruding spikes will keep the roof structure from sliding off to the side. Attachment to the tree will keep it from sliding off to the front or back, but it will be able to move to accommodate bending and swaying in the wind.

The roof is a box made of 2x6 treated lumber joined with 1/2"x5" galvanized lag screws. The front-to-back pieces are 10' long and the cross pieces are 88" long to accommodate the particular spacing between my trees. They are spaced for two sheets of plywood which will hold the shingles. I believe I can do all the roofing from the current position, then tilt the whole assembly up and fasten it to the trees.

ericher69 · Oct 9, 2012

mvwicker said:
Had some more time this weekend to work on the tree platform. Today's task was to add a lintel spanning the two front posts, then build a frame to support the roof.

Step one was to drill a 3/4" hole in the center of each post for the spikes that will anchor the lintel, or crosspiece:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283540"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283541"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283542"/>

Next, drill two 3/4" holes at the ends of the lintel and drop it in place:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283543"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283544"/>

Lastly, the roof structure is assembled on the platform and carefully raised to rest between the spikes, before its back end is lag-screwed to the tree:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283545"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283546"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283547"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283548"/>
The protruding spikes will keep the roof structure from sliding off to the side. Attachment to the tree will keep it from sliding off to the front or back, but it will be able to move to accommodate bending and swaying in the wind.

The roof is a box made of 2x6 treated lumber joined with 1/2"x5" galvanized lag screws. The front-to-back pieces are 10' long and the cross pieces are 88" long to accommodate the particular spacing between my trees. They are spaced for two sheets of plywood which will hold the shingles. I believe I can do all the roofing from the current position, then tilt the whole assembly up and fasten it to the trees.

I envy you! How many acres if you don't mind me asking?

You may want to think of a temp "safety" railing made out of 2x4" cross piece about 42" up. I'd hate to hear that you fell off.

Responded to many calls where hunters fall from their stands.

Keep up the good work

Eric

mvwicker · Oct 9, 2012

Good idea there, to have a safety railing during construction. The leftover 4x4x10' legs would do for the sides.

The property has 77 acres total, almost all in timber. This platform overlooks a half-acre meadow at the base of a deep hollow with a small creek.

mvwicker · Oct 22, 2012

With warm dry weather again over the weekend, it was time for the next step in adding a roof and sides to the tree platform.

Temporary brace for the roof frame

Roof frame resting on the brace

Pilot holes for the lag screws holding the roof to the trees

The first experimental roof will be a "soft top" made from a tarp stretched over a frame made of EMT conduit:

3/4" hole in the roof frame, 3" deep

Start bending 9" from the end of a 10-foot conduit to get a triangular frame with 90" base and 16" peak height. Figure this out using Pythagoras' theorem.

Mark the center and bend 2" before it to get a flat ridge

Bending with a "conduit hickey" requires some skill

If done right, the conduit ends slip right into the holes in the roof frame.

Once one tube is bent, the others can be bent to match in less time. Final result:

...and that is enough for one day.

Leaving the roof frame tilted down during this phase made it easier to drill the top holes and place the conduit while standing on the platform. The roof frame itself acted like a diagonal handrail.

mvwicker · Oct 22, 2012

The next step in making a "soft top" roof is to reinforce the conduit frame with 1"x2"x8' slats along the ridge and eave bends. These will be attached to the conduits with clamps at 16" centers:

Clamps loose, screws in pilot holes at 16" centers just like the holes in the roof frame

At this point it is clear that not all the conduit bends are exactly the same (remember what I said about skill? :ashamed

However, by reordering the conduits and flipping some of them right-to-left, I got reasonably straight ridge and eaves lines.

Clamps are tightened down after pressing over the conduit. A rubber mallet is useful here.

Braces in place on the ridge and one of the eaves.

Now the roof frame can be raised and lag-screwed into place:

3 washers prevent bark damage and allow some tree growth; protruding screw allows for the tree's bending in the wind.

Here the roof frame is in place with the conduits placed and braced.

That's it for this weekend. Here are three last photos to show the beauty of the Ozarks in Fall:

:thumbsup:

:dance1:

johnk · Oct 23, 2012

Looks like you put a lot of time and work into your project. Looks great...........

mvwicker · Oct 23, 2012

johnk said:
Looks like you put a lot of time and work into your project. Looks great...........

Thanks!

Lots of time and work is not necessarily a good thing, though. I wouldn't make any money doing this for a living

But it is fun to do a custom job like this, where things have to be cut to fit the space between trees, and assembled in a way that can withstand tree motions.

mvwicker · Nov 5, 2012

Another fine weekend, another step in the tree stand enhancement saga.

It was high time to add hand rails for safety. They are lag-screwed to 2x4s running parallel to the trees, to avoid excessive tree wounding and to provide dimensioned attachment points:

Select a suitably bent 2x4, lash it in place temporarily...

...and then fasten it with two lag screws. Repeat on the other side:

The bottom of the riser rests on the joist ledge, so just one lag screw is needed:

The bend of the 2x4 follows the curve of the tree:

Next, attach a 2x4 handrail to the riser:

...and a thicker 4x4 shooting rail to the front wall:

Later this was replaced with a 3x4 landscape timber which, being rounded, looks and feels better.

This is how it looks after 3 handrails are in place:

Note the obligatory tractor in the picture

, used here as a tool carrier.

mvwicker · Nov 5, 2012

Next, stretch a tarp over the roof and sides.

Start with a Harbor Freight 19'x29' camouflage tarp, cut into two 9.5'x29' halves:

Roll it up with the camo pattern inside, so it will be outside after deployment:

Tennis balls protect the tarp from tearing on sharp edges:

The night before, I made some clips from 1/2" ID PVC conduit. Start by cutting roughly 1/2" rings with a reciprocating saw's metal-cutting blade:

Then cut out a quarter of the ring with tin snips:

A 10-foot conduit can make about 200 of these, and they clamp onto 1/2" EMT conduit with tremendous force.

The tarp gets draped over the roof frame and centered, then clipped to the front and back conduit "rafters":