Entryway/Gate project

GGB · May 10, 2012

Looks like a good project-I'm planning on putting up a cedar log ranch style gate this summer after fininshing an inside project for my Bride. Seeing your project akes me want to get outs even more.

What is the size of each of the gate sections? I may have missed it, but didn't see it.

Also, I'm wondering about the low water crossing. Did I understand that you will pour it, then drag it into position? If so, was there a reason not to pour it in place?

Good luck with the weather here in Kansas!

Dishpointer · May 10, 2012

The opening between the beams is 14 feet so we will have two 7 foot gates. The low water crossing will be poured in place on top of a 20" culvert that is already installed. We have big rocks that were put about 5 years ago (some 100-150 pounds) but this creek floods out during heavy rains washes everything down. We're hoping this will be a permanent fix so the farm equipment can pass between fields without having to bring in a big excavator to fix the area.

Here is the dry-run of the blocks to give you a better picture of what it will look like and the brick face in the last picture.

Joe H · May 10, 2012

I'm interested. Took a lot of pictures of different gates & entrances a few years ago while traveling. Had plans to build one but ended up selling the property. It's still on the list for my current place but in the meantime I stuck a couple of logs in and hung gates on them.

Joe H

Dishpointer · May 11, 2012

We poured the low-water crossing first thing this morning to beat the rain that is expected tomorrow afternoon and the AG equipment that's going to plant the beans later next week. It took 11 yards and it turned out great. We didn't finish the surface because leaving it rough should help with traction if it gets wet and the place it's located isn't visible unless you're down by the creek. We spaced the coral panels up on rocks to keep it centered in the pour and that worked out great as there is no way to pull the heavy panels up while you're pouring and standing on them. We kept the thickness to about 5" with the sides getting about 10".

Next week I'll start setting the entryway blocks.

We poured more concrete on the bank sides to help keep the water in the center and to keep it from washing out the sides.

This is the down stream side that slopes to the upstream side so water will drain off.

This is the upstream side where the culvert is located. We put our names in the smoothed out area on the left.

woodlandfarms · May 12, 2012

I am following as well, just one comment. You blew your security by adding your names to the concrete, now everyone knows who lives there:laughing:

B7510HSD · May 12, 2012

woodlandfarms said:
I am following as well, just one comment. You blew your security by adding your names to the concrete, now everyone knows who lives there:laughing:

:thumbsup:He's fine he spelled them wrong for extra protection!

Furu · May 12, 2012

There is a serious amount of yards of concrete involved here.
I am impressed with the work you are doing. Please keep the updates coming as I am designing an gate entry as well.

Dishpointer · May 17, 2012

I took a few days off to do other jobs around the house/farm and started back on the entryway. Today I set two courses of block on the east wall. I'm not an expert at laying block...let alone a curved wall. My expertise in laying blocks came form the Army and we really had to do was straight walls so this is a learning experience for me. All I'm doing is building the backbone for when the real professional comes to set the bricks. All I need to worry about is keeping everything level and plumb!

I cut a channel in the first block and inserted a piece of conduit to let out any water if it rains. I didn't want a large pond in here. If there's a chance for rain, we'll cover the other holes with blocks. I also put conduit in the far pillar so we can add a lamp on the top. After setting the first course we added the brick ties in the mortar joints. This will hold the brick facia to the wall.

Normally a string line is used as a guide to keep the courses level but that won't work with a curved wall so we had to really pay attention and keep everything level with a 4' level. I was able to set the first block on the far pad with a line level before we started the second course. We will use that block to lay the first course on that side then use a line level off of the second course to keep both sides the same.

I'm not in a big hurry to finish this but I do hope to work on it every day. My goal is to do on course/day so the mortar is good and dry and I don't kill myself.

mattbatson · May 17, 2012

subscribed....
thx for the pic's!

ljohnson778 · May 17, 2012

Dishpointer said:
My father started this entryway about 3 years ago with future plans on adding a gate down the road. He said he wants to tighten up security. Since I have free time at the moment (between new job) we decided to finish the project. This entryway will have 6 foot pillars next to the drive with a sloping wall that slopes down and curves to a smaller 4 foot pillar on the ends. He wants 2 automatic gates with a keypad/intercom that is tied to the phone so when someone pulls up and doesn't know the code or have a wireless transmitter, the call button rings the house phone and a command can be given to open up the gate. The openers will probably be from Chamberlain but definitely not a Mighty Mule.
The pillars and curved wall will be sitting on a 26" deep reinforced footer and will be made of block then brick faced. I have laid blocks before but we will end up subbing out the brick work as that is something we have never done before. I have talked to a few masonry guys and will place the brick ties in the block wall as per their recommendations.

This is the entry area. The road is about 25 yards behind where the picture was taken. The intercom will be to the left. The 2 steel I-beams are 4 foot in the ground with concrete and will be 6 foot above the footer. We will build the pillar around this and will attach the gate (weld the hinges) to this. The gates shouldn't sag at all!
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264187"/>

This is leaving the property. The blocks we plan to use are stacked on the right.
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264188"/>

The footing was dug by hand. Man it would have been nice to have a mini excavator! The first footing was down hill so in order to make both sides level with each other, we had to add forms and backfill. The other footer was higher up so we will use the earth as a form. We placed rebar every 14" and tied everything together and added wire to fill in the gaps as we didn't want to spend a fortune on rebar.
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264192"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264194"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264190"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264195"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264189"/>

We were all ready to order concrete for Tuesday when the sky let out 3" of rain yesterday. We had to pump out the "trenches" and will have to fix the form in one spot where the rain washed out the dirt backfill.
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264196"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264197"/>
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264198"/>

We're not suppose to have rain for the next 7 days so we will let it dry out more and pour the footing on Wednesday. We will also place rebar into the concrete to tie the block wall to the footer. We will probably add rebar every 3 feet and fill that blocks cavity for strength.

More to come later.

Doug