ETA Subsoiler

alancamby · Apr 5, 2015

Sysop said:
How large is that flatbar you used for the main shaft on yours?

3/4"x6" 1018.

alancamby · Apr 5, 2015

Sysop said:
I've not seen one available any bigger or better than ETA's.

This is the one I originally wanted before I decided to build my own. I was wanting to use the shank from this one but it is $500 just for the shank.

http://landoll.com/content/files/8413/7512/4429/SubSoiler-PhotoGallery2_1000x667px.jpg

Sysop · Apr 5, 2015

vtsnowedin said:
Well I don't want to kick you while your down or at least distracted by your own problems. But apparently 40 HP is enough to bend the ETA subsoiler if the tractor is as well set up as yours.

I don't consider it to be a kick while I'm down, I'm seriously inquiring. I researched before buying and there are folk who use the ETA with more powerful machines than mine and do fine. I can only guess they just don't build the traction I do. "Mahindra- pull more" is more than just a slogan I guess...

Another contributing factor may have been the HST also. When you hit something immovable like that with a hydro machine and the pressures load up, it doesn't react quickly to letting off. Couple that with the fact, the less you are pressing on the HST go-pedal, the more torque it is delivering. So when something you hit drags you to a stop and you let off, it continues to increase the torque delivered just before stopping.

vtsnowedin · Apr 5, 2015

Sysop said:
Another contributing factor may have been the HST also. When you hit something immovable like that with a hydro machine and the pressures load up, it doesn't react quickly to letting off. Couple that with the fact, the less you are pressing on the HST go-pedal, the more torque it is delivering. So when something you hit drags you to a stop and you let off, it continues to increase the torque delivered just before stopping.

I had never considered that before. Your natural tendency as an operator is to keep moving forward so with an HST hitting an immovable object you might tend to keep feeding the Go pedal in what is in effect it's lowest gear rather then declutching a gear tractor to keep it from stalling.
I think you are on to something there.

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

Yep. If you hold it you'll just spin the tires. When you let off, it is essentially changing into lower gears and creating more torque until it comes to a stop and as the tires slow their rotation they gain additional traction on the ground applying more of the produced torque to the "hang up"... Maybe Ted can make a few upgrades for a new model for heavy HST compacts.

vtsnowedin · Apr 6, 2015

Sysop said:
Yep. If you hold it you'll just spin the tires. When you let off, it is essentially changing into lower gears and creating more torque until it comes to a stop and as the tires slow their rotation they gain additional traction applying more of the produced torque to the "hang up"... Maybe Ted can make a few upgrades for a new model for heavy HST compacts.

I'll have to save this for the next time a Gear Vs. HST debate comes up. Might have to wait four or five hours.

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

Maybe I should do my subsoiling in 2nd gear so the HST is not able to make too much torque for the job... Guys with 40HP gear units would get jealous...

k0ua · Apr 6, 2015

Sysop said:
Maybe I should do my subsoiling in 2nd gear so the HST is not able to make too much torque for the job... Guys with 40HP gear units would get jealous...

Not a bad Idea.. this will take some of the "starch" out of the HST when the pull gets heavy. Might just be enough to keep from bending all the steel. You can still go as slow as you need to go. Or you can trade that heavy butted Mahindra for a Kubota and solve the problem that way!:laughing:

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

I am beginning to look around at lighter-weight tractors for mowing and gardening chores, but my primary use is still dirt work and 95% of the time I need the machine I have, as it currently is. I've only ever bent one other item, which was a standard duty box blade. It was easy to replace the bent piece and reinforce from having happen again but not be so strong I have concerns of breaking the tractor. With this just being a plate of steel I don't think I can get straight enough, nor is there any means of strengthening it. Hopefully ETA can sell just that main plate.

C4Ranch · Apr 6, 2015

What blows my mind is the sheer pins entire purpose in life is to prevent this.
You can see from my post on pg 1 that I hit some big rocks and no problems. Bigger tractor and I was in L turtle but my ground was loose.
I wonder what the true bending force is for that plate steel vs the sheer pin.

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

My ground isn't loose. This was my great grandparent's garden which hasn't been used in 30 years (my aunt liked a yard more than a garden). In the years of being a yard, it has always had a few spots that began to hold water on the surface every time it rained. I was attempting to break up some of the clay that resides about a foot under the sod to allow the water into the ground a bit better.

94BULLITT · Apr 6, 2015

Here is what you need.

Agriculture Subsoilers - Monroe Tufline

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

Honestly? I think even with multiple shanks I'd have ended up with something bent. It is apparent by the bend that I ended up with that the shank tip came along side the rock at an angle and the forward motive forces were transferred to one side of the shank and forced it to the side with some twisting occurring before finally stopping the tractor. It wouldn't matter if I had a whole rack of shanks 5 times wider than the tractor, when only one shank catches the rock at the odd angle I apparently hit that one, something will bend.

Here are today's "after" pics:

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

ETA being the awesome company they are, didn't even give me a chance to call them (busy day with work and all so wasn't even sure I could get around to calling today) and contacted me on here today via private message and offered an outstanding bit of customer service... My new main shaft is on the way. :thumbsup:

Travis, Ted, everyone else at ETA, thank you again for producing quality products and providing second-to-none customer service.

alancamby · Apr 6, 2015

Sysop said:
Honestly? I think even with multiple shanks I'd have ended up with something bent. It is apparent by the bend that I ended up with that the shank tip came along side the rock at an angle and the forward motive forces were transferred to one side of the shank and forced it to the side with some twisting occurring before finally stopping the tractor. It wouldn't matter if I had a whole rack of shanks 5 times wider than the tractor, when only one shank catches the rock at the odd angle I apparently hit that one, something will bend.

Here are today's "after" pics:

That is what I originally thought you said you bent.
that is the main 3/4"x6" x48" ripper.

I wonder if ETA deviated from the original old design.
they told me their main 48" ripper shank is A36.

Fred Cain advertised theirs as having a high carbon steel ripper.
I don't know if they were referring to the ripper shank or the replaceable tip.
I do think the design has been around for a long time. I don't know how long Fred Cain made them but other manufactures did exist. Fred Cain decided to stop making them. Maybe they were having a hard time with availability of the cast Chinese ripper point mount. I remember reading that sometimes they were hard to get. ETA makes their own ripper point mount.
Fred Cain and others , like dirt dog, make their 48" ripper reversible too. ETA would have to be drilled.

alancamby · Apr 6, 2015

Sysop said:
ETA being the awesome company they are, didn't even give me a chance to call them (busy day with work and all so wasn't even sure I could get around to calling today) and contacted me on here today via private message and offered an outstanding bit of customer service... My new main shaft is on the way. :thumbsup:

Travis, Ted, everyone else at ETA, thank you again for producing quality products and providing second-to-none customer service.

ETA does a great job with their customers. They sent me a free ripper for my 72" eta box blade. I was just asking them for a part# and price and they said they would just send one out.

Talisker · Apr 6, 2015

Yeah, I was thinking the same with that main shank. I just picked up a Northern Tool subsoiler. The flat stock is 4 X 1" thick. Also, the bottom spreader is 3" square tubing. I haven't tried it yet but it looks like a good unit. I had to add to the top link hole because my I attach wouldn't fit. Then I added a reese hitch to the bottom so I didn't need
to buy two attachments.

vtsnowedin · Apr 6, 2015

Being tighter then the bark on an elm tree I'd a just kept using it until I hit a rock going the other way and bent it back.

alancamby · Apr 6, 2015

Dirt Dog's page shows their ripper shank is made out of 1060.
Dirt Dog Manufacturing

Also notice the HP range on theirs. I don't remember a HP limit on the ETA. The ETA video seemed to indicate 60hp+ if memory serves. Does any one know what size kubota "Peanut" is on?

Sysop · Apr 6, 2015

That is one of the problems trying to describe things in such a method, everyone names things a little differently. To me, the ripper shank is the small piece of hardened steel that acts as a cutting edge. The shank mount would be the assembly it bolts to that is also bolted to the bottom of the main shaft. The main shaft would be the main 3/4 beam everything bolts to, and up top is the three point lift assembly and the top link assembly.

Either way the unit is heartily made and I honestly do not think there is better made in this class. I just happen to come across the wrong rock at the wrong angle with the wrong machine tugging on it. I know what I'll be doing this fall with my backhoe... The customer service is wonderful. I don't know that I'll own another implement that says anything except EverythingAttachments.com on the side.