Ever wonder how you did that?

   / Ever wonder how you did that? #1  

jfh28

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Messages
589
Location
Poconos, PA
Tractor
Power Trac 2425
So I'm doing my 8 hour grease.........on my pt I have 22 grease points.........except when I'm done I've only counted 20 and I've run out of tractor......so I go back to see where I missed two and come across this........sheared two of the zerks right off.......I can't even explain how I could have done it as the location isn't at a place that would be contacted normally when digging but obviously I hit something........so now I've got to get the remnants out so I can install new zerks.......extractor tool just arrived from amazon today......any tips before I have a go at it?......Jack
 

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   / Ever wonder how you did that? #2  
I'd be very tempted to start with a left-hand drill, maybe 3/16 or so. There is a very good chance that the bit will catch instead of cut and walk the whole rest of the zerk right on out for you. Based on 1. the threads are already full of grease, so lubricated and protected from rust, and 2. it was busted off by a side impact, not by trying to turn it while rusted in, so the odds of the threads actually being free to turn once you can get it to spin are pretty good. I'd also try spinning it with a punch or small chisel. Maybe even see if you can get it to spin by lightly jamming a small screwdriver in it.

I prefer left hand drills over most ez-out type things, since they do not wedge inside the hole and jam the fastener tighter, and if it doesn't walk the fastener out, it still drills a hole (though you do have to tighten your chuck more often).

My brother had some extractors that were not tapered, they had very small hardened fins on the sides to just catch the sides of a drilled hole when you drove them into place with a hammer, but I don't know where he got them. This design also let him rock the fasteners, and did not require him to turn them all one way for that wedging action to get them free. Rocking back and forth (like when cutting threads) rather than just keep applying more and more pressure in one direction seems to be one of those things that really helps for rusty stuff.
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #3  
Welcome to the club. I'm impressed that you count your grease points- that is a great idea. My method is to start on one side, and work my way around doing each end of a cylinder to make sure that I don't miss.

As a member of the club, I have a zerk extractor. Works like a charm. These are easy compared to sheared bolts.

Out of curiosity, what grease are you using?

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #4  
I 2nd the left hand bits. I used to be a toolmaker in a large plant, and I've taken out a lot of broken bolts. The hardened ones, are obiously the hardest, or a tap. There are dedicated tap extractors that make that easier.
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #5  
Good to see that I was not the only one to shear those same zerks off. I jammed a small punch in them and they walked right out.
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Welcome to the club. I'm impressed that you count your grease points- that is a great idea. My method is to start on one side, and work my way around doing each end of a cylinder to make sure that I don't miss.

As a member of the club, I have a zerk extractor. Works like a charm. These are easy compared to sheared bolts.

Out of curiosity, what grease are you using?

All the best,

Peter

I believe the latest in the gun is mobil 1.........Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
well that didn't work........tried the extractor first and it wouldn't budge......in fact it stripped the tip off on the extractor......then went to the punch and no go and then tried screw drivers hex wrenchs and anything else I could get in for a tight fit........but at the moment I still have two sheared zerks firmly wedged inside......guess I will go searching for the left handed drill bits next........there's also a rubber tipped adapter for grease guns I saw to use for when there isn't a zerk that could always be a fall back option.......Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #9  
Are they even threaded? Since they make "drive in" zerks as well as the threaded ones...do all the rest of the zerks on the machine have wrench hexes? Or just round?
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
they are all wrench hexes.......I took one out from another part of the machine to make sure and it's threaded.........I'm wondering because of how they sheared off below the hex that I must have hit them pretty good and maybe it distorted whats left inside which is why they are so stubborn to get out........Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #11  
If your extractor is still in there, you can worry them out some using the little diamond embedded dentist drills in a dremel or such. If you can't find the left hand drills (HF has a set) just use regular ones and get it to where you can either crush what is left with side impacts/prying with a punch, or pick out the spiral of thread metal.

Was the one you pulled out 1/4-28, or 1/8 NPT?

Worst comes to worst, drill the whole thing out, tap it something like 3/8 coarse and then drill and tap a cut off bolt/allthread for the zerk size?
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #12  
It's been a week...does this mean you've fixed it and are back to getting work done, or are you still trying to find time to wrap this up? Very curious to see how this one wraps up...
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
waiting for delivery of a left handed drill set I ordered.....hoping it comes this week so I can play with it over the weekend......will let you know how I do.....thanks......Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #14  
I wonder if using a little diesel around the zerk would work as a solvent to aid in removing the broken part? It might loosen the rust. Or you might try heating it so it would expand and contract. I've heard that helps, along with using a dead hammer to vibrate the fitting.
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I checked the diameter of the fitting by removing one from a different location and the drill bit set I ordered will have three bit sizes that will fit....9/64 5/32 11/64.......so I figured I'd use the smallest size first and if that doesn't do it then I'll try a little heat like you suggest and move up to the next bit size....there isn't a lot of the zerk left inside.....maybe 1/4" in length so if I could just get it to move a little it should come right out........or maybe thats just wishful thinking......haha........Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
left handed drill bit set came and went to work on it this afternoon......started with the 9/64 size which is bigger than the 1/8 hole in the zerk........drilled right thru with no movement of the zerk.....stepped up in bit size and same result.......hole is bigger but zerk still firmly there.......at this point I realized that the amount of zerk that was sheared off in the hole just isn't long enough for the drill bits to catch anything before drilling out the other side.......so I resign myself that I am going to have to drill the zerk out and then re-tap the hole.......keep stepping up in bit size to do it gradually.......the hole size is 7/32.......when I finish with the 3/16 bit I look in the hole and see the threads poking thru and looking in good shape.....so I run a q-tip in it to clean it out and then try to install a new zerk in it to see if it will catch.......bingo....success.....just to make sure I attach the grease gun to it and the grease flows thru.......so now I tackle the second sheared zerk the same way.......only when I get up to the 3/16 bit the tip breaks off in the hole and I can't get the piece out.......errrggg.......since the bits are strengthened steel I don't really fancy trying to drill it out so instead I remove the bolt holding the cylinder in place so I can punch it put......then back to drilling the zerk out until the threads are visible and checking to see if a new zerk will install.......it does.......so on monday I will head down to the local equipment rental shop to see if they have 2 zerks to match the ones on the pt.......long and drawn out but finally success........still don't know how I sheared them off in the first place.......thanks to all who gave suggestions and advice...really appreciate it......Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #17  
I'd guess it is a 1/4-28 threaded zerk, which should be available at just about any hardware or auto parts store. I just installed several this weekend that had fallen out on my PT425.
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
thanks MR.....I see lowes has them so I may take a trip there tomorrow for some since I need some lumber anyway.......and crossing off a "to do" list item on sunday is even better then crossing it off on monday :)........Jack
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
all shiny and new.......almost hate to to put grease in them......haha........final cost.....96 cents for two zerks and a whole lot of time and trouble.......they are 1/4 - 28 zerks......if anyone orders them online make sure you specify short stem as there is a long stem version also......Jack
photo7.jpg
 
   / Ever wonder how you did that? #20  
I have found the easiest way to get broken Zerks out is Super Outs by Lisle. I am pretty sure that there are other brands of them but this one set has lasted for over 25ish years. I tend to use them on Zerks more than anything.

Kinda look like Torx bits, which may work as well.

LIS62900.JPG
 

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