Everlast 140 and other DC welders

[blueriver]

No thanks!! :laughing: I think I'll keep on spelling "welding" the three different way's I always have because of their sterling record of customer service. They've always had great customer service without being influenced by customer reviews on the internet. :thumbsup: !. L-I-N-C-O-L-N 2. M-I-L-L-E-R 3. H-O-B-A-R-T

Yes they got their reviews yrs ago before internet and they are still getting them !!!

New companies have the right to establish their own "sterling record" ... Longevity is on the right path with customer service .. At least in my mind.

 

[Arc weld]

Don't kid yourself. Lincoln, Miller and Hobart have all made some dud machines along the way. Lincoln wouldn't acknowledge there was difference between their aluminum wound and copper wound engine drives until a "blind taste test" proved what welders had been telling them for a years. The first Miller inverters had problems and it cost more than the machine was worth to fix them. Early Lincoln inverters had problems too.

 

[paulharvey]

Ok, so I had problems with DC one the welder, had a heck of a time getting a stable arc using 3/32 6013 and only a sightly less hard time with 3/32 6011 name brand rods. And when I did finally get a bird poop bead, if I chipped the slag, the whole bead would come off. Zero penetration, at 105 amps. Ok, but far from happy with 130 amps AC... fan would never come on on either, always hard to start a bead. Always had a hard time, but I didn't want to admit it cause I assumed operator error. But I got an idea.... dangerous right; here hold my beer. What if the cord is only hooked up as 120v 20 amp instead of 240v 20 amp?



Here's what the plugged looked like.... so black to ground, green to hot...

Reversed black to Hot and green to ground, and.... guess what... It works like it should.... I was trying to burn 3/32 @ 57.5 amps DC and 75 amps AC...

 

[paulharvey]

~80 amps dc is about perfect for what I am running. No idea what kind of duty cycle I can run on it, but it lists 15% at 105 DC. I had to kinda guess what I've got it set on cause it lists 115 amps DC on machine down to 40 amps DC while the PDF manual lists 105 DC to 30 Dc. The sticker gauge on the machine also doesn't line up even remotely with the needle; so I ran it down to minium and put a sharpie 30 Amp line; turned it up to max and put 105 amp line, then did some redneck arithmetic, and put a 67.5 amp line in the middle. Then guesstimated half way for 86.25 amps.

Btw: the welder, came with a 2 lbs box oof 1/8" 6013 from HF. I'm guessing the guy I bought it from on Ebay only tired those and got frustrated.

 

[paulharvey]

I know I shouldn't post a picture oof any of My welds but what the heck. 80-83 amps DC, 3/32 nd 6013 on some 3/16" brackets.

 

[Shield Arc]

I'd say that is way to hot, which makes your travel speed way to fast. I'd try down around 50 to 60, maybe 70-amps. And slow down!

 

[weldermike]

I'd say that is way to hot, which makes your travel speed way to fast. I'd try down around 50 to 60, maybe 70-amps. And slow down!

Yes i agree and way to hot. 65-70 should do him fine for starters.

 

[Arc weld]

You should have nice rounded ripples in the bead. The pointed ripples are an indication of too fast a travel speed. Looks a little too hot but you can't rely on the dial, you have to go buy what the weld is telling you. Some rods like 7024 will have slightly pointed ripples but they are a production rod. Shield Arc has some good pictures of what the ripples should look like.

 

[paulharvey]

I'll turn the heat down and slow down. I just was happy to lay down a rod or two with out a dozen start and stops.