Extension cord question

[Pixguy]

So Pix,

I will leave it at this.

You appear to use a Magnum Inverter, tied through a Magnum ME-RVC bridge, tied through a FireFly Integration system, tied to a Vegatouch Lynx touch panel...sigh....

that said after some limited googling, it appears you can't limit the charge controller, without a remote control panel made by magnum. This appears to be a limitation of the Firefly system.

you can A buy a remote learn how to tie it in to control the charge current when at 15 amp rated sites.

B charge it via a generator

C charge it via the coach engine if this is an option

D get a 30 amp site

E borrow the 30 amp guys connection, until the amperage gets down to a level below 14A.

Good Luck!

Thank you Bill, I'll be able to go back in a couple of days and check on the battery levels. I'm hoping they will be recharged as other coaches have done when I've had this issue. (this is our 4th) I'll run the genny if they aren't or see if I can connect to a 30a post.
I really do appreciate yours and others input. It's going to the dealer soon for warranty work and I'll get with them. I'll also likely add a solar panel so if this happened in the future it will stay charged.

 

[stuckmotor]

Pixguy asked: How could I test the new 100' cord?

If there's a good safe place where nobody will be tripped, electrocuted, or hurt in any way, it seems like you could uncoil the cord into a "u" shape to eliminate any problem caused by the coils.

 

[Pixguy]

Pixguy asked: How could I test the new 100' cord?

If there's a good safe place where nobody will be tripped, electrocuted, or hurt in any way, it seems like you could uncoil the cord into a "u" shape to eliminate any problem caused by the coils.

I do have that new 100' cord being used right now and there are no coils. I will replace with a shorter cord asap. It seems to be working fine and the issue was not the cord but the load from the rv.

 

[LittleBill21]

There is nothing wrong with your cord Pix.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

who said anything about a freezer? and I have seen them trip, i have also not seen them trip.

but feel free to take my comments out of context. a cord regardless of the length should not trip anything if there is no load on it, which was my point

FYI we have already discovered his problem, but lets keep this convo going!

A brand new perfectly good freezer kept indoors, receptacle indoors also, but it tripped. Lost all the frozen items. Took gfci out and the freezer did not trip a breaker in 15 years so far.

 

[Pixguy]

It's not the extension cord!

So I went today and the coach was dead even though the cord power was fine. I finally called Entegra and they had me reset the 2000w inverter and I asked what is on that basement circuit. She says the floor vacuum and the engine block heater. Huh, block heater? I bought in FL and still here, who turned on a block heater. She says to look in the electrical compartment, is there a 110 outlet? Ya, Is there a plug in it? Ya.... That's where the block heater is turned on, by that plug being plugged in. Really? Yup.
So I switched the basement breaker on and watched the ems meter and sure enough it jumped up to 21amps on line 2. Unplugged that plug and it didn't drop so I unplugged the power and rebooted the system and then just 2a on line one and 0amps on line 2.
Mystery solved I guess, not sure why it started to give me problems now??
Thanks to all who had input

 

[Pixguy]

On a different but same subject.

What wire do I need for 30a to buy to run through some emt in my concrete garage? 10guage? Solid or twisted?

 

[LittleBill21]

10 gauge thnn or romex is fine.

 

[ponytug]

Here is a calculator for you;
Voltage Drop Calculator | Southwire You should keep the voltage drop under 3%, ideally closer to 2% to minimize your power losses. Code requires no more than 5% in many jurisdictions, starting at the panel.

Basically, the answer depends on how far away the farthest outlet is from the panel and the extent to which you have already taken a voltage drop on the feeder circuits. (I.e. if you have already taken a 3% drop to get to your garage panel, you want to really minimize any further drop thereafter.

If you are doing something like, say, plugging in an RV, I recommend going to larger solid wires (smaller gauge numbers). However, I am not an electrician, and your local codes may have other rules/opinions. If your RV will take 240, instead of 120, it helps balance the load, and reduce the requirements on the wires.

If you are running it in a conduit, it is just wires, if you are running it in the wall, use romex. Don't put romex in a conduit; it overheats.

All the best,

Peter

 

[LittleBill21]

Don't put romex in a conduit; it overheats.

Romex is allowed in conduit per nec(not outdoors). it has to be sized based on the sheath size, and not individual conductors.