Extension cord question

[Have tractor did travel]

I'm taking a different tack at solving this issue.

At a storage facility, I think the service entrance is in the main storage building, and I'll bet, since it's an outside run to provide RV's with electrical service, that the owner specified aluminum, because it's cheaper than copper.
I'm also going to guess that he used the minimum size wire because he's expecting each RV to only use power to the converter, to charge the batteries. You're supposed to step up one gauge rating when using aluminum, so for 15 amps, he would have used 14 gauge copper, or 12 gauge aluminum UNLESS he was counteracting long runs, which I doubt.
I'll also surmise that it's 100 feet from the service entrance to where you park your RV, and then another 100 feet of your extension cord.
If my assumptions are all correct, the VOLTAGE LOSS is not less 36 volts, meaning that voltage at your RV is about 84 AND THAT'S why your surge protector (they shut down from too much or too little voltage) keeps shutting off. The GFCI is a different issue, probably related to the new extension cord, since it wasn't doing it before.
SOLUTION - Pick up a voltage reader at any RV place - cost about $8 (or Amazon). They plug into the duplex receptacle, either in your RV or the one at the storage facility. Determine the voltage. You should not run any of your RV electrical equipment at less than 106 volts.

 

[Pixguy]

right, they throw an error code indicating fault condition, what is the fault condition?

Sorry, I didn't notice. Mistake on my part.

 

[Birdhunter1]

If you left the 100' coiled up, with just what you needed unwound, that could be the problem. You have just formed an inductor. I've seen coiled extension cords catch fire from the heat generated in the coils.

I had an electrician tell me that it couldn't happen that way, but plugging in my worm drive saw (with a new blade) and leaving the 100' 12 gauge cord coiled vs uncoiled you could hear the difference cutting a 2x4.

 

[Pixguy]

I'm taking a different tack at solving this issue.

At a storage facility, I think the service entrance is in the main storage building, and I'll bet, since it's an outside run to provide RV's with electrical service, that the owner specified aluminum, because it's cheaper than copper.
I'm also going to guess that he used the minimum size wire because he's expecting each RV to only use power to the converter, to charge the batteries. You're supposed to step up one gauge rating when using aluminum, so for 15 amps, he would have used 14 gauge copper, or 12 gauge aluminum UNLESS he was counteracting long runs, which I doubt.
I'll also surmise that it's 100 feet from the service entrance to where you park your RV, and then another 100 feet of your extension cord.
If my assumptions are all correct, the VOLTAGE LOSS is not less 36 volts, meaning that voltage at your RV is about 84 AND THAT'S why your surge protector (they shut down from too much or too little voltage) keeps shutting off. The GFCI is a different issue, probably related to the new extension cord, since it wasn't doing it before.
SOLUTION - Pick up a voltage reader at any RV place - cost about $8 (or Amazon). They plug into the duplex receptacle, either in your RV or the one at the storage facility. Determine the voltage. You should not run any of your RV electrical equipment at less than 106 volts.

I do know from a prior month when I tripped the breaker and had to go into the office. The breaker panel is roughly 100-125' from the receptacle and all in it's dedicated emt.
My wife left the fridge on and another extension used.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Pixguy, GFCIs only trip on a ground fault. If the GFCI is outside they can accumulate moisture and provide a lot of nuisance trips. The RV power manager unit will trip on a low voltage or overload. 15A circuit w/that long a run would not take much to overload. A RV refrigerator on electric is probably a max load for 15A especially with a long run.

Ron

 

[LittleBill21]

Pixguy, GFCIs only trip on a ground fault.

Ron

gfci trip on a in balance between hot and neutral, and require no ground wire to operate.

a RV refrigerator uses 800 watts. I run mine on a 100 foot 16 gauge wire.

 

[Pixguy]

I have used a 100' cord to start up my previous elec/lp combo fridge as well but this new rv has a Whirlpool household fridge now so I have no reference now.
I am now just trying to keep batteries up and not harm them.

I will look into getting a 30a spot next winter when we return down here.

 

[LittleBill21]

Pix go get the error code and we can go from there

 

[Pixguy]

Pix go get the error code and we can go from there

I will go there tomorrow, reuse the new cord and get the error code

 

[sea2summit]

When I first got to the storage unit to ck on it, the gfi was tripped so I reset it. It then was kicking on and then off every few minutes which is the surge protector doing what it does. The gfi never did trip again while I was there switching direction and the cords.

I think you have a problem with the cord. Do you have a kill-a-watt? Can check it with that plugged in pretty easy. Could also run a multimeter for resistance through the cord and any continuity across the leads.