Extra Hydralic Lines When Switching Attachments

Norcal M5 · Oct 19, 2011

Hi All,
I just bought my first tractor and it came with what must be a top and tilt system that was added. The tractor has a gannon box scraper with a ripper and there are three levers on the right fender where I can control the tilt, inclination and ripper. Now, I want to remove the gannon and put on a rototiller. However, it looks like I'll need to do something with the hydralics to the ripper cylinder. There aren't any quick disconnects. Do I remove the lines and replace with some sort of caps? Will this be a messy job (any pressure on these while the tractor is turned off?)

Your help and advice is appreciated!

tungularafishcamp · Oct 19, 2011

You might want to add some quick connects so you can it is easier next time, and maybe put them by the valve so the ripper hoses wont be in the way.

MtnViewRanch · Oct 19, 2011

You definitely want to add quick disconnects. I would add them for all 3 cylinders up by the control valves. If you ever want to use a 3pt post hole digger, you will need to remove the top link. It generally is a good idea to be able to easily remove any added hydraulics and quick disconnects are how that is done.

kennyd · Oct 19, 2011

A picture or three of your setup will help us give you better advice

Norcal M5 · Oct 19, 2011

MtnViewRanch said:
You definitely want to add quick disconnects. I would add them for all 3 cylinders up by the control valves. If you ever want to use a 3pt post hole digger, you will need to remove the top link. It generally is a good idea to be able to easily remove any added hydraulics and quick disconnects are how that is done.

tungularafishcamp said:
You might want to add some quick connects so you can it is easier next time, and maybe put them by the valve so the ripper hoses wont be in the way.

Thanks, guys. Is there going to be any pressure in the system when I take this apart, or is it a pretty benign operation?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 19, 2011

Norcal M5 said:
Thanks, guys. Is there going to be any pressure in the system when I take this apart, or is it a pretty benign operation?

With the engine shut off, move ALL the hydraulic control levers in ALL directions until any and all movement stops. This will relieve any pressure that was left in the lines-hydraulics.

Like kennyd said, if you were to post a few pictures, we may be able to give you some suggestions about how the best way to do this might be. Sometimes there are better places to mount the QD fittings than another.

Just a suggestion.

Norcal M5 · Oct 20, 2011

MtnViewRanch said:
With the engine shut off, move ALL the hydraulic control levers in ALL directions until any and all movement stops. This will relieve any pressure that was left in the lines-hydraulics.

Like kennyd said, if you were to post a few pictures, we may be able to give you some suggestions about how the best way to do this might be. Sometimes there are better places to mount the QD fittings than another.

Just a suggestion.

Thanks, I'll post that photo!

Norcal M5 · Oct 22, 2011

Took the photos today. It's the lever closest to the back of the tractor that I'll need to disconnect.

J_J · Oct 23, 2011

Plug the unused work ports or install QD's.

Norcal M5 · Oct 24, 2011

Thank you JJ. Are the QDs going to be a standard size? Not sure what to order.

J_J · Oct 24, 2011

Something like this to match whatever you have now. Some brands will interchange.

ISO 5675 Agricultural Hydraulic Quick Couplers

Norcal M5 · Oct 24, 2011

Thanks, JJ. Judging from the photos, can you tell if I'm looking at 1/2" or 3/8"?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 24, 2011

Typically your work ports will be 1/2" pipe thread. Not sure what your hoses are, almost look like 3/8" JIC ends to me, but you should take either the hose or a fitting with you when you go to get the QD's if you don't actually know. 1/2" AG quick disconnects are what is std, but in your situation you may be able to use 3/8" and be better off room wise.

You may want to change those 45*s up front also. Get some long 90*s to put in there and then those hose's won't be pointing up in the air. Just a suggestion.

Good luck

Norcal M5 · Oct 24, 2011

After doing the work, do the lines need to be purged of air like the brakes on a car? Is there a procedure to follow?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 24, 2011

Norcal M5 said:
After doing the work, do the lines need to be purged of air like the brakes on a car? Is there a procedure to follow?

No, nothing special to do other than maybe cycle the hydraulic to it's limits 5-10 times. (this will bleed the air out of the system) This is just for the 1st time because the lines are open to install the QD's. After the first time you are good to go with just plugging the QD's together.

SPYDERLK · Oct 24, 2011

QDs are very bulky. Mounting several on a valve may be prohibitive. You could mount them to the ends of short hoses permanently installed on the valve.
larry

MtnViewRanch · Oct 24, 2011

SPYDERLK said:
QDs are very bulky. Mounting several on a valve may be prohibitive. You could mount them to the ends of short hoses permanently installed on the valve.
larry

Larry, I think that he is only going to do the 2 hoses that get used for the rippers on his box blade. But yes, all 6 would be a problem and should have a separate mount for the QD's further towards the rear of the tractor.

Just my :2cents:

Smallplot · Oct 24, 2011

Either way sounds like it will be an oily mess on that fender. May be a good time to make some changes and get rid of the control box on the fender.

Does this box also control your FEL?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 24, 2011

Smallplot said:
Either way sounds like it will be an oily mess on that fender. May be a good time to make some changes and get rid of the control box on the fender.

Does this box also control your FEL?

Any way he does it, it will be an oily mess somewhere. Good thing hydraulic oil cleans up so easy.