Extra Tractor Lights

[AndyG]

I wanted to share a very easy to make light mount for the ROPS on my TC40D. The "U" bolt is made from 1/4-20 all thread and I used a piece of 1/4" x 1.5" flat bar stock. I drilled 4 holes in the bar stock. Two holes for the "U" bolt and two holes near the ends to mount the lights on. I used some cheap driving lights from Harbor Freight. I found that the loader bucket blocks the tractor lights in front and it is difficult to see to the rear at night. I mounted one light facing each way and both problems are solved.

 

[RavenRock6]

Great idea for an irritating problem! Can you post a diagram/photo/details of the wiring connection?

 

[AndyG]

Great idea for an irritating problem! Can you post a diagram/photo/details of the wiring connection?

Check out some of the other posts on this subject. Most of the other folks have done a far more professional job than I did with the wiring. I just ran a couple of wires down the ROPS attached with electrical tape. I tapped the wire for the taillight for power and mounted a switch on the left side behind the seat. For the ROPS lights to work the taillights must be on as well. You could maybe ground directly to the ROPS but I thought that grounding through a pivot point would be unreliable so I ran a ground wire.

 

[KrisHansen]

Here's mine.. Runs off of the OEM harness for the factory rear light..

And my ROPS mounted overhead lights:

 

[SOS]

Thanks. I still haven't ordered the lights but I got a lot of good ideas from you all
Does anyone know what these connectors are called?

Also, I was thinking of putting a bar across the ROP so I can mount two lights. Still in the concept phase.

 

[mjncad]

Does anyone know what these connectors are called?

It looks like a flat 2-wire trailer style connector to me. I generally use insulated bullet connectors because they are easy to get in bulk in case you goof up making the connections.

Just remember, put a female connector on the hot side of the supply wire, and a male connector on the ground wire.

I hope you don't mind a Deere owner showing off his lights. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/116073-lights-camera-action.html

BTW, not many NH and Kubota dealers near me, and the one NH/Kubota dealer I went to when tractor shopping in 2001 wouldn't give me the time of day, so I went green.

 

[Zipperhead0]

I put a rear light on my TC29DA and I ended up buying the NH mounting bracket that uses the welded on nuts on the side of the ROPS. This bracket is rediculously expensive (I think it was $50) but it was a clean install and I used the wires that are on each side of the ROPS that came from the factory with coupler type connectors. The light I bought came with a switch on it which is easy to reach from the seat. All in all it was an easy install and a very useful item.

 

[harwill]

AndyG,

The two pin connector is the bullet type used on trailer connectors and you can buy a pigtail with one pair on each end for a buck or two. Just cut it in half and you get two connector assemblies. The plastic housing lights by peterson with 55W lamps are much cheaper at Walmart. A push on /push off switch from Lowes will fit in the housing and the GB rubber switch covers (also Lowes) will make the whole thing waterproof! Enjoy!

 

[Typhoon]

Also a couple more pointers that may help you..
The extra wiring plug on the New Hollands, back behind the seat area is for a NH rear-facing implement light. I think this light might only be 35W, it may be 55W. But either way, this plug would only be good for 1 light. The reason, is because when dealing with a 12V system, (low voltage), you have to have bigger wire for everything. For example, if you were running 2 55W lamps in your 110V house circuit, the current draw would only be 1 amp. Now run those 55W lamps in a 12V tractor circuit, you are drawing 9 amps! On my tractor, I am running 2 80W Hella lamps facing forward, and 1 55W PIAA facing backwards. That is upwards of 17 amps of current draw, so I had to use some big wire. Make sure you use the proper guage wire for the current draw you are going to have. Current draw is (total wattage divided by circuit voltage). If you use wire that is too small, it will get hot, degrade over time, and could damage other components in your electrical system. If anything, use wire that is too big. If you are real serious about lighting, you could spend about 250.00 and get an HID worklight for your tractor. In this case, you would only be pulling about 3 amps, and would have about 5 times the light output. But it is pricey. Someday I am going to do it. Good luck with your light project!
-Brad