F 3060

[dougcat]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

 

[arto98607]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

I suggest getting a F3060 Workshop Manual if your plan is to do the work by yourself.

I bought a 3600 hour F3060 few years ago and took it just about completely apart except the engine, in order to replace & repair everything that was in need of it - front to back.

How many hours on your mower - photos of the mower would be helpful?


Speed Change - yes there is plenty of adjustment possibility.

Check this first:

 

[arto98607]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

There should not be slack in the rear wheels in either way if you want the mower to travel straight with as little correction as possible.

There are easy to replace plastic bushings (Item 30) that will wear out, and so will the tie rod ends (Item 160) so I would start there.

 

[dougcat]

Thanks for your reply, hrs 1438, I did order a hard copy WSM should arrive today. In the meantime I decided to removed a few items to get a better look. The steering ujoint needs replacing since I'm in there 2 bushings. Tries to pull the shaft up doesn't want to budge and tricks there?

 

[arto98607]

Thanks, not bad mine has close to 3 times the hours now.

I don't recall having trouble getting the steering shaft out - I also removed the steering controller below it (it's gerotor type) and did internal O-ring seal replacement due to minor oil leak.
There is a ball bearing at the bottom end of the steering shaft, just above the controller which I had to replace.

The WSM will be great help.

PS. That area of the framing seems to collect wet grass clippings which will cause some rust - would be wise to clean up, kill the rust with chemicals & repaint if you plan keeping the mower. Behind the battery tray is another area to check for wet grass and rust...

 

[dougcat]

Both are in my basket as well. I didn't force the steering shaft up just tried pulling and it wasn't budging. Have 2.5 tears in the right shoulder pretty much pain free but I gotta pay attention certain uses. My guess one or both of the bushing are causing resistance.

The rear, too clarify, off the ground top/bottom 6/12 oclock hands on tire a tiny movement. 3/9 oclock both sides via the tie rod move an inch or so not so much the steering wheel. I don't see any issues with ball joints so leaves the part you referenced. Which appears to be "bush" 67910-56430 those really could cause that play? Thanks

 

[arto98607]

If the plastic bushings you mentioned wear out due to lot of use or lack of lubrication, it will cause metal to metal contact (the right side wears more) and will start wearing support knuckle (070) and arm knuckle (060) shown in the enclosed.

I had to replace both on the right side and the arm knuckle on the left side, as well as the tie rod (120).

Hard to say if the play you describe is due to worn plastic bushings or not but, if any doubt - it's relatively easy to remove the right side arm knuckle for inspection.
Well, at least it's easy to say so.


PS.
I hear you about the shoulder - I had rotator cuff tear few years ago and it's fine now, but it took a long time to heal. I think it took 2 - 3 years...

 

[dougcat]

Any thoughts on theses rear pics? I've ordered new matching tires, dust covers. Also, the upper/lower post bushing replacements are on the way.

 

[dougcat]

about speed control, when depressing the pedal there's no resistance until these settings, 1st pic is fwd, 2nd reverse, all connecting points are tight/fine. Is this a matter of adj the rod length via 080?

 

[5030]

Pretty corroded I'd say. Must have lived outside. I'd be at least giving it a good bath and lubricating all the sliding-moving surfaces and repainting (after proper prep) the corroded parts.

I don't care for the 'homebrew' hitch on the back end either, I'd loose that real quick and mount the OEM weight bracket and weights where that cobbly hitch is at. Thing looks tacky.

 

[arto98607]

Are those the bushings, one is worn badly - looks like they are metal or?

I know other members here will disagree and that's fine with me, but as a principle I will not tow anything with my F3060, in order to save it just for mowing.
For towing I have couple of tractors, pickup and ATV that can tow anything I need to.

For me the F3060 is just for mowing and trying to save the rear axle from any additional wear that's not necessary.

 

[arto98607]

about speed control, when depressing the pedal there's no resistance until these settings, 1st pic is fwd, 2nd reverse, all connecting points are tight/fine. Is this a matter of adj the rod length via 080?

There is no speed pedal resistance with the engine shut down, but should be some resistance when it's running.

Not sure if the speed control linkage in your F3060 is exactly the same as mine is, but there are several bushings and a tiny ball bearing that I ended up replacing all due to wear.
Its hard to see the linkage due to side frame covering it, but I would do my best to clean it up, check for wear and lubricate.


It looks like a challenge, but the linkage can all be removed and serviced without removing the framing.



Speed Change Arm you are controlling with the pedal:

 

[Doug Vee]

Arto,

I have not been able to locate a zerk fitting anywhere on the speed control pivots. The manual indicates that it requires grease, but the best I could come up with was spray some lithium grease in the general direction of the pivots.

Am I missing something there?

Doug

 

[arto98607]

Arto,

I have not been able to locate a zerk fitting anywhere on the speed control pivots. The manual indicates that it requires grease, but the best I could come up with was spray some lithium grease in the general direction of the pivots.

Am I missing something there?

Doug

Doug,
The item on the left hand side of item 1. is a zerk fitting and there is another one in the forward/reverse pedal bushing.

There is some type plastic bushing in-between the arm 9. and neutral adjustment 7. that was worn out in my F3060

 

[arto98607]

Here is a pretty good drawing showing the speed control linkage with the two zerk fitting's approximate location marked!

 

[Doug Vee]

Here is a pretty good drawing showing the speed control linkage with the two zerk fitting's approximate location marked!


View attachment 869442

Arto,

Boy, I have looked in that general area, but apparently not very well. How accessible are they? Thank you for posting this picture. I will try to be more thorough in my search.

Doug

 

[arto98607]

Arto,

Boy, I have looked in that general area, but apparently not very well. How accessible are they? Thank you for posting this picture. I will try to be more thorough in my search.

Doug

You are welcome, they can be accessed without removing anything, but a flashlight may be helpful.

 

[Doug Vee]

You are welcome, they can be accessed without removing anything, but a flashlight may be helpful.

Arto,

I must be blind...I just can't see where the zerk fitting is located. I assume it would be in the location indicated by the arrow....? Where there is... nothing?

I apologize for my apparent needy-ness.

Doug

 

[arto98607]

Looks like you have a different version!
I will get back to you when I'm back by my desktop PC little later.


Edit:

There were two versions according to spare parts manual and it looks like one of them may not have a zerk fitting in this area?

According to manual, cruise control version:


According to manual this was an option:

 

[Doug Vee]

Looks like you have a different version!
I will get back to you when I'm back by my desktop PC little later.


Edit:

There were two versions according to spare parts manual and it looks like one of them may not have a zerk fitting in this area?

According to manual, cruise control version:
View attachment 870129

According to manual this was an option:
View attachment 870130

Hmmm,

I am not aware that mine has the cruise control option. I have not noted any lever or knob or anything else that might engage/disengage the feature. I'll investigate that a little from my end.