F series F3060 tire chains?

[Rip]

N....Yeah you are the definition of Powder Country in Park City....my brother has (but is now selling) a place in Alta....I lived in Bailey CO for many years, but south-facing, so NO ice! Merritt, BC was another story, as steep gravel drive was north-facing, so had winter-long ice problems....blew the snow well away with hyd 72" blower on a ToolCat so not melting and flowing back on the drive....and then swap to a self-loading Thomas sander and apply...and apply....and apply until the next snow. My TC had the dump-bed, but they have ones with 3PT hitch on rear....the 4 Wheel-Steer was great, but the whole machine was too-clever-by-half and always breaking down...and local dealer had no clue as the TC was so different than any other Bobcat....sold it with the place....good riddance!

Had a PowerTrac 1845 articulated 4WD tractor for our very steep Bailey property.....was a great simple machine...also with a SS Solutions Hyd 72" blower for when we had drifts that gave my pickup with Western straight blade problems....did not have to use it that often, but when I did, worked like a champ! IMO, articulated (like a regular wheel-loader) is better and simpler than 4Wheel Steer. Open-station of the PowerTrac...so snowmobile suit, baclava, goggles....and hot wine when I came back in! Some have fabricated enclosed cab, but not so easy.

I have also seen (and Amazon sold) Rubber Tire Chains....basically 1.5" strips of heavy rubber conveyer belting instead of chain cross-links....work well in snow (not ice) and do not mark or damage asphalt or fancy driveways.... some contract-plowers use them for their 'special clients'....I considered making some for my extra-steep paddock sections, but ultimately did not need them with the loaded tires, extra rear weight and experience....I just do not mow those parts if too slippery. Not sure if there would be a clearence issue as I also have 3" wheel spacers on the main drive wheels for additional stability....would be an issue on the rear tires as others have mentioned. Ring-Chains are also less damaging to asphalt.

Another tip if you deal with gravel drives....replace the flat scraper bar on bottom of the blower with a solid 1" Round bar (higher than mild steel if used a lot) and you will not pickup much gravel and can run the blower on grade....but would not do as well on asphalt or concrete. I also used a rubber bottom edge on my plow for our dirt/rock mile-long drive....did not trip the blade or tear up the road!! Some have slit a length of heavy-wall pipe or tubing and placed over the standard plow cutting-edge for those special occasions. (could even try that on a blower??)

Overall liked Colorado better than BC, but too many wildfires (both places) sent us looking elsewhere for retirement....Tassie is GREAT!! Definately pleased with the '09 ex-council (municipal) F-series machine I got in '12 with about 1400 hrs....almost 1900 now, and while I push it to it's limits, I do not abuse it. I also built a tipping-carryall (swap out for the mower deck) to add versatility....not a FEL, but lets me scoop, lift, carry and (manually) dump...helps a lot around the 4+ acre place.

Good Luck!! Rip

 

[nfisheremti]

thanks again rip. i only have one gravel driveway, and fortunately it's short. i just drag my bucket backwards on that one, then push the pile to the side. at least until the ground is good and frozen.
what was the primary failure point of the toolcat? i agree articulated is much simpler, but the lure of crab steering is hard to resist. reliability is number 1, traction 2, power and ground speed are tied for 3.

ease of maintenance is a big factor for reliability, but working snow removal as a side business, doesn't leave much time for PM. the b is not great with PM, several grease fittings are very difficult to reach, belts and batteries, look easy, but in reality are not easy in bad weather and/or in the dark, when i'm usually having to change these things. same with water separator/fuel filter assembly. the whole thing was not designed for ease of repair, on your back, in the dark in sub zero (F) weather.

when i was in new hampshire, i had a very long driveway, that was very steep, that i could only plow downhill.

one of my big hesitancies about the f-series is the lack of an easy way to move the berms that the county pushes up, currently i use the bucket to push the wet heavy berm away, before hitting it with the blower. my idea is to use the back blade for that, but it requires an adjustable toplink.

lots to think about, nothing is idea.

thanks for your input,
n

 

[arto98607]

................zip............... awful crick in my neck driving around backwards for several hours starting at 4am............zip.............

There was a front-mount Kubota snow blower for B2400 tractor (Kubota B2660 clearing width 60 inches), but that may not work out so well if you have a front end loader?



I would find out if those are available new or used since you have just recently made very expensive repairs on your tractor.

Maybe hard to justify switching tractors for business if the gross revenue is only six grand per winter.

 

[nfisheremti]

i agree, with more speed, and possibly 2 machines (the b and the f) i might expand the business. as it is right now, i'm actually turning customers away. usually because of range. driveways around here are well suited for snowblowers, especially ones with a long throw. i don't spend a lot of time pushing piles back several times a winter, like my higher priced competitors do. i could easily triple the number of regular customers, but with the current level of system reliability, i have trouble keeping up with my current customer base. if i were to quit my engineering job, i could certainly make a lot more, but then i'd be looking at much larger/faster equipment. i have been looking for the front mount for the b series, and they have them, but they are quite pricey.

thanks for the input. i'm just juggling so many ideas right now, i figured i'd turn to this group to get some opinions.

thanks,
n

 

[Rip]

N....On paper, a ToolCat with rear 3PT would be ideal for your purposes....enclosed heated cab, high road speed, etc.....but VERY SPENDY $$$$ ! And while some folks have been real lucky with minimal breakdowns/problems.... more the other direction. The engine/drivetrain is tucked in tight in the middle of the machine and VERY hard to access most anything (at least with the dump-bed, the 3pt model may be bit easier.) Tons of sensors feeding a computer (like modern cars/trucks) that allow for the sophisticated operation modes....until they don't.... and then darn near impossible to diagnose and get parts to repair in the field...or even a nice warm, clean shop. Ice & snow tend to rip the many sensor wires loose. There is a TBN forum on them.

While I love my F-Series for my purposes, not really sure it would suit you the best. Battery, one belt, radiator, engine ans most grease point easy access, but some pretty difficult like your B.... the F is mainly a reversed B +/- some misc differences....but has been very reliable for me....did break a steering axle shaft while down a steep hill and struggled to get back up to the shed without the 4WD. The HST is only dual-range and built more for speed than slow/grunt....I do all my mowing in turtle mode, even the flat open areas.....so may be less than ideal for deep snowblowing duty and creeping up to garage doors to pull clear.

The Kubota blower would be HD commercial-duty and fit right up, but also quite spendy if bought new. The back end of the machine is strong enough for its design purpose (the frame and welded-on rear plate is 5 mm / 3/16"), but not sure I would suggest putting much heavy stress on it. Might be possible to remove the counterweight and rig-up a Cat-0 3pt for the back end with either electric or hyd lift for a garden-tractor type back blade.... but still may be too light for your needs.

Don't like to talk anyone out of an F-Series, but not sure it would be a good fit for you....perhaps a larger used L-Series (quite a range in that series) or even MX Kubota or other with more speed, grunt, and ability to do serious work from both ends, (be sure it has mid-front PTO for blower)... loaded turf or R-4 tires with ring-chains as needed should work well. Have seen a front blower rigged up with a drop-down gate/blade to act as a push- or pull-plow for garage door situations....also allows for a salt/ice-melt spreader on the rear! Checkout some of the snow-removal forums and sites....have to sift though more BS, but still some good info on them!

Good Luck!!

 

[nfisheremti]

thanks rip! maybe i should just move to taz sounds good. One of the choices i'm looking at is a used L 30hp+ it was what i had settled on until i saw these F series (there are 2 of them, both ex SLC 2009 w 2500, and a 2010 with 1800, both for $9500 each) They are very tempting. i figured i'd try to see. but i think you're right, an L series (need the cab i've got a semi open station - really a ruined cab with front and rear glass but no sides) i've also been looking at compact wheel loaders. i think i need to cross the F series off my list. thanks for your advice.

n

 

[Rip]

You would be welcome in Tassie....after they re-open the borders (sealed drum-tight for now)....only have to go a few miles inland to get snow if you want....wet & heavy though...no powder here! Think you will be better off with something other than an F-Series for your snow removal needs however. Lot more L-Series around than F, so look around 'til you find a good one!

By the way for the others asking about chains on the rear steer tires on F-Series....on my machine the left rear turf tire already rubs the fuel tank support bracket (no harm) at full lock, so no room at all for any type of chains.

Cheers, Rip