F3060 Rear Axle Gear Case Oil

Rovcketman357 · Jul 28, 2024

Thought it would be a good idea to change out the rear oils with 2700 hours on the clock. No sweat with the differential oil. It apparently had been changed before I bought it because it was regular smelly gear oil not UDT oil.
Dug all the dirt out of the two drain plugs in the gear cases. Got the hex deep into the plug but could not budge it and it rounded the hex. The right side had been drug over something [rocks] and the bottom was scraped and the hex distorted- could not insert a hex wrench. Not easy to work on these so close to the ground. Has anyone figured out a solution?

If I take out the four bolts on the bottom cap on the housing does anything fall out I wonder?

mjw357 · Jul 30, 2024

Not familiar with your machine at all, but is there a way to pump it out from fill hole?

Rovcketman357 · Jul 30, 2024

Seems the case of full of gears. I tried checking the oil level with a piece of bent wire and was barely able to get it into the oil. And that oil is black.

Doug Vee · Aug 17, 2024

Rovcketman357 said:
Thought it would be a good idea to change out the rear oils with 2700 hours on the clock. No sweat with the differential oil. It apparently had been changed before I bought it because it was regular smelly gear oil not UDT oil.
Dug all the dirt out of the two drain plugs in the gear cases. Got the hex deep into the plug but could not budge it and it rounded the hex. The right side had been drug over something [rocks] and the bottom was scraped and the hex distorted- could not insert a hex wrench. Not easy to work on these so close to the ground. Has anyone figured out a solution?

If I take out the four bolts on the bottom cap on the housing does anything fall out I wonder?

I was able to pound a Torx bit into what was left of the hex hole. The plugs turned relatively easy and did not strip out further. I replaced them with new hex plugs.

Doug

Spanner · Aug 17, 2024

As per Doug, above.

The cap holds the vertical driveshaft and bearings in place. Best not to disturb unless necessary.

or...

Remove the wheel from the hub.
Undo the 5 (I think) bolts around the final drive housing cover plate and take the cover plate off with the hub itself.
All your oil will run out freely into the drain pan you placed under (Or onto the floor if you neglect to prepare for that)
No need to touch the gears or seals - Just wipe the mating surfaces with brake-cleaner, smear some silicone sealer around the faces and reassemble.
Remember to refit the wheel or you will be driving lop-sided.

Rovcketman357 · Aug 17, 2024

Spanner said:
As per Doug, above.

The cap holds the vertical driveshaft and bearings in place. Best not to disturb unless necessary.

or...

Remove the wheel from the hub.
Undo the 5 (I think) bolts around the final drive housing cover plate and take the cover plate off with the hub itself.
All your oil will run out freely into the drain pan you placed under (Or onto the floor if you neglect to prepare for that)
No need to touch the gears or seals - Just wipe the mating surfaces with brake-cleaner, smear some silicone sealer around the faces and reassemble.
Remember to refit the wheel or you will be driving lop-sided.

Thanks for the replies. I ended up pounding a T40 torx [I think] into the hole in the plug. Still did not come out so I used a propane torch to heat just the plug with a fine flame and tried again. Got them both out. Had to use the Dremel to clean up the smeared metal on the one side first. Those suckers were really in there tight. Going to run a while and then change again as a flush since the oil was so black.

Spanner · Aug 17, 2024

Rovcketman357 said:
Dug all the dirt out of the two drain plugs in the gear cases. Got the hex deep into the plug but could not budge it and it rounded the hex. The right side had been drug over something [rocks] and the bottom was scraped and the hex distorted- could not insert a hex wrench. Not easy to work on these so close to the ground.

That bearing cap and drain plug placement is arguably one of the worst mechanical engineering design failures in mowing history.
Surpassed only, perhaps, by the feebly weak steering tie rod which bends at the slightest provocation.

I see there is an upgraded tie rod kit as a replacement part on the current F3690's now - Much thicker diameter and comes with a replacement grub screw & locknut to install on the rear axle pivot as the new tie rod will rub on the original bolt head.