Farm Pro 2420 stalls

   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls
  • Thread Starter
#11  
about an hour of running it hard and the gauge almost gets into the 100 mark
when you give it a few mins and crank it back and take it easy it runs fine or seems to run fine anyway.
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #12  
When was the last time you flushed the cooling system and blew out the radiator? :confused:
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls
  • Thread Starter
#13  
at the end of last summer when the fan broke and i had to replace the radiator and the fan
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #14  
It could be that your fuel system is developing an air lock when the engine is hot. Perhaps something is expanding with the heat and allowing air to enter the fuel delivery system and creating a situation similar to the "vapor lock" that carbureted gasoline engines get from the fuel in the lines vaporizing from heat.
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #15  
Well, the engine isn't getting all that hot (100°C = 212°F). I'm kinda leaning towards the fuel pressure regulating valve at this point. It's inside the banjo bolt that connects the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump. If that isn't operating properly the fuel can become aerated.
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #16  
No matter what 100 C is too hot for these tractors. It should run about 80C or so.

Chris
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #17  
80°C = 176°F, 85°C = 185°F, 90°C = 194°F, 95°C = 203°F.

Personally I like to see ~195°F for optimal thermal efficiency.
At 7psi there is no threat with these temps.
 
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   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #18  
Personally I like to see ~195ーF for optimal thermal efficiency.
At 7psi there is no threat with these temps.
Personally I think you're wrong. Gasoline engine; low compression, high combustion temperature. Diesel engine; high compression, low combustion temperature. Different loads, different thermal efficiencies, hence different thermostat ranges.

Given that the OE temperature gauge doesn't indicate past 100C, it's hard to say what the actual coolant temperature might have been. Especially if the temp rise has been precipitated by a head gasket or similar failure. Even if not, it's still possible on an otherwise overheating diesel engine for cylinder temperature to rise to the point where pre-ignition begins to occur - which necessarily throws the detonation sequence out of time - causing engine stall or worse.

By the way, can you show a diagram or a photo of that fuel pressure regulating valve inside a banjo bolt ? I'm curious why I never encountered such a thing on the 4 Chinese tractors I've owned.

//greg//
 
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   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #19  
at the end of last summer when the fan broke and i had to replace the radiator and the fan
When the fan broke, did it damage the fan shroud? I ask, because - when removing/replacing the radiator - it's very important to correctly reposition an undamaged fan shroud which in turn maximizes air flow through the heat exchanger (radiator core). A fan shroud that is missing/damaged/out of position will cause coolant temps to rise over time as you have described.

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #20  
Personally I think you're wrong. Gasoline engine; low compression, high combustion temperature. Diesel engine; high compression, low combustion temperature. Different loads, different thermal efficiencies, hence different thermostat ranges.
This is a technical issue of a different nature Greg, I'd be happy to discuss it with you in a separate thread.

Even if not, it's still possible on an otherwise overheating diesel engine for cylinder temperature to rise to the point where pre-ignition begins to occur - which necessarily throws the detonation sequence out of time - causing engine stall or worse.
Um, you can't get "pre-ignition" from a compression-ignition (diesel) engine. Last I heard nothing happens until fuel is injected. :)

By the way, can you show a diagram or a photo of that fuel pressure regulating valve inside a banjo bolt ? I'm curious why I never encountered such a thing on the 4 Chinese tractors I've owned.
They're kinda tricky to spot but the non-adjustable ones will have a dimple in the center of the hex (which is actually a steel ball pressed in), while the adjustable ones will have a slotted screw and lock nut. I'll see if these pics will work. You will find these on almost all small bore diesel engines, even Caterpillar. Diesel bugs can corrode the ball and seat to a point where the valve is useless and fuel flows freely in a closed loop.

IMGA0876.JPG IMGA0875.JPG

At 1:28 through 1:33 you will see the fuel lift pump and a glimpse of the pressure regulator valve.
YouTube - 3412 start 2.mpg
 
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