Farm Pro 2420 stalls

   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #21  
A fan shroud that is missing/damaged/out of position will cause coolant temps to rise over time as you have described.

Agreed. Especially under load. A shroud allows the fan to pull/push air to the full tube area of the radiator using a higher pitch fan with more blades and a smaller diameter. Removing or altering the shroud will have a negative impact on the cooling system.
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #22  
At 1:28 through 1:33 you will see the fuel lift pump and a glimpse of the pressure regulator valve.
YouTube - 3412 start 2.mpg
Not the answer I was lookin' for. My question was "where is this PRV on a Chinese tractor fuel return line"?

And pre-ignition can and does in fact occur in overheating diesels. On a well maintained 4 cycle diesel engine, compression ignition occurs at the end of the compression stroke. A bit simplistic, I know. But lets stick to basics here. So if the cylinder is already grossly overheated for whatever reason, detonation can occur part way through the compression stroke. It's a matter of physics; a diesel/air mixture will in fact explode at what - 210C? So if that temp is reached before the end of the compression stroke, bad things happen.

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #23  
Not the answer I was lookin' for. My question was "where is this PRV on a Chinese tractor fuel return line"?
In this application it is not a "relief" valve but a regulating valve (semantics, I know). It maintains around 20 - 40 psig in the fuel cavity of the fuel injection pump. As I said before, it is the b-bolt that connects the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump (there is one line going in and one line going out. I will take a picture of it on the tractor tomorrow.).

And pre-ignition can and does in fact occur in overheating diesels. On a well maintained 4 cycle diesel engine, compression ignition occurs at the end of the compression stroke.
Disagree. Ignition occurs at the point of fuel injection, which is around 7 to 14 degrees (depending) BTDC of the compression stroke which is when the flame front begins to propagate, and expands to around 2/3 - 3/4 of the power stroke when the exhaust valve begins to open for scavenging. Last I heard air by itself doesn't burn.

A bit simplistic, I know. But lets stick to basics here. So if the cylinder is already grossly overheated for whatever reason, detonation can occur part way through the compression stroke. It's a matter of physics; a diesel/air mixture will in fact explode at what - 210C? So if that temp is reached before the end of the compression stroke, nothing will happen until the fuel is injected. Remember the cylinder has just been scavenged and now has a gulp of fresh clean air.




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   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls
  • Thread Starter
#24  
When the fan broke, did it damage the fan shroud? I ask, because - when removing/replacing the radiator - it's very important to correctly reposition an undamaged fan shroud which in turn maximizes air flow through the heat exchanger (radiator core). A fan shroud that is missing/damaged/out of position will cause coolant temps to rise over time as you have described.

//greg//




The shroud was fine when i put it back on. I checked it again just to make sure. it has even clearence all the way around it and the fan itself is a factory part. So same pitch and blades. I ran the tractor late fall early winter and it was running like a champ. it just seems something went wrong over the winter the whole thing is just weird to me. It is becomeing a troubleshooting nightmare. I plowed for an hour and a half to two hours run it slow and low RPMs and it ran fine.as far as the temp goes there is a 80 mark then a 100 mark i would guess it normaly runs in the 80 range bun now around 90. Like i said just a guess.

Thanks for all the help
Daniel
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #25  
I don't recall you mentioning the stalling since you changed the filter. Is this correct? If yes, then it's just a little over-temp that we're addressing now. If yes, then part of the problem could be the "low revs". Assuming an 80C thermostat and an accurate sending unit/gauge, 80C is where is should stay under most conditions. Lugging the engine on the other hand can cause coolant temperature to rise. If you've got more plowing to do, increase the revs. Drop down a gear if necessary to maintain reasonable ground speed. See what happens to the temp gauge..

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Ok let see if we can clear up a few things. The tractor still stalls but only when it gets hot.it has new oil filter gas filter. the radiator and fan were put on last year and ran fine for the rest of last year. I can drive it around just fine as long as there is no strain on the motor. When i do give it **** it warms up pretty fast.
I can take it easy again and let it cool back off and it never stalls. So i think we are just looking an over heating problem making it stall.
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #27  
Ok. So are you losing any coolant during any of this? Have you checked for oil in the radiator or coolant in the engine oil? When you look into the radiator while the (warm/hot) engine is running, do you see any bubbles?

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #28  
Not the answer I was lookin' for. My question was "where is this PRV on a Chinese tractor fuel return line"?
I apologize for the late reply Greg, plate is very full for awhile. Anyway, this is a pic of the adjustable Pressure Regulating Valve on my TY395 fuel injection pump. On this particular installation the return line was plumbed back to the lift pump suction - not a particularly good idea - was aerating the fuel and building excessive pressure.
 

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   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #29  
Ok, I understand now. Post-purchase mod with aftermarket parts. Or else it's a dozer thing, on which I readily profess ignorance. Cuz none of my four Chinese tractors came with any external brass fittings connected to clear vinyl tubing.

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2420 stalls #30  
Cuz none of my four Chinese tractors came with any external brass fittings connected to clear vinyl tubing.
Forget about that part. That is a return-to-tank line I installed to prevent areation of the fuel. I'm referring to the banjo bolt with a plug in the hex to the left. The clear vinyl has since been replaced with regular fuel hose.
 

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