FARM PRO 2420 TROUBLES

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

#1; never have I adjusted a stack height on the bench or flywheel .

2#; We mount the new clutch pack, adjust the PTO clutch, reassemble the tractor and adjust the main clutch and free play, its very simple.


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

#1; Smart man, trying to perform a stack height bench adjustment on a 200-300 series Jinma is just simply a waste of time, energy and thought.

Way back when .... I performed several bench adjustment techniques to see if I could increase shop productivity on these tractors when a clutch assy needed replacing.

Example; I like a 1/8 gap between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers. Set it up on the bench (fixture), install it on the flywheel, slide the tractor back together and find the gap off.... either to close or to wide of a gap.

Reason, because the factory is not or is never consistent on where they drill the holes for the roll pins that attach the fork that pushes the release bearing.


See picture 13 under; 254LE Clutch Replacement

Click here; http://ranchhandsupply.com/techstuffus/254le354leclutch.html



2#; Me to. I will add to check the throw of the external linkage via the pedal stop (bolt in bell housing) while/when adjusting pedal free travel.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[kidney]

I would like to take this opportunity to say I appecicate the advice and posts of both Tommy and Ron. Your information and advice has helped countless tractor owers. I thank you and please keep up the good work.

 

[Affordable]

Thanks,I think that is why both Ronald, myself and other dealers don't mind trying to help you guys out,we work on these tractors everyday for a living.I have gained alot of customers and friends from this board and others.I don't know it all my any means but I have alot of hands on experience from older model Jinma tractors to the current models and there have been several changes over the years.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore "
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[RICHARDL]

look like i'm breaking it in 1/2 again. thanks will try it and let yall know what happens

 

[greg_g]

look like i'm breaking it in 1/2 again. thanks will try it and let yall know what happens

In the end, that may well be true. But look through the inspection window again. I either don't have the right tools - or enough imagination - to accurately measure the stack height through the opening. If you can see a reasonable way to do it, you might be breaking new ground here - and save a whole lotta work for other 200 Series owners in the future. Because if you can measure it - then you have a way of quantifying the actual results of turning on all of those nuts.

Remember. Target distance between Finger tips and forward face of PTO pressure plate = 96.8mm. Otherwise it's 96.8mm + the thickness of the PTO friction disc = target distance between finger tips and flywheel face.

Note: this assumes a flat flywheel face

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

look like i'm breaking it in 1/2 again. thanks will try it and let yall know what happens

If you do in fact decide to split the tractor again, there are a couple other things you might want to take care of. Not a few 200 Series owners have had major engine oil leaks in front of the bellhousing. If you do take the clutchpack off again, it would be a good time to torque down the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine. I've never had to do it myself. But of those who have, some added lock washers - some used LokTite - one guy to a harder grade bolt.

The other thing is to check the roll pin(s) in the clutch fork. It's a two fingered fork that moves the throwout bearing carrier. The pin(s) have been known to break, rendering the clutch pedal inoperative. If there's only one in there, you should double pin it. Put a 5x32mm roll pin inside an 8x32 roll pin, and drive them both into the hole. Even if there's already a pair, it might not be a bad idea to replace them with new. It's aggravating to have to split the tractor yet again for such a frustratingly simple problem, so this may be an opportune time to get ahead of the game.

One other thing on the stack height, and here's where my memory fails me. My 454 clutchpack needs to be pre-loaded before adjusting stack height, my 354 clutchpack doesn't. I simply can't remember whether the 254 clutch needs it or not. If you do stack height on the 254 flywheel, preloading is a non-issue. On the bench, I'm just not sure.

//greg//

 

[bluechip]

If you can get to the double nuts through the access hole, you may be able to adjust the clutch from outside. I believe the perscribed gap under those nuts is in the operators manual, and I don't have one with me now but it is measured in thousanths of an inch, just maybe .010 to .015, but I am not sure so check the book. ALL THREE must be the same so the pressure plate remains parrallel to the assembly as it comes back. (this is even more important for the 3 fingers clearance to the throw out bearing). Overtightening these could cause the PTO to disengage at the same time as the main clutch or it might even be binding the assembly so the main clutch does not disengage (as you describe). When properly adjusted, you will have about an inch to 1-1/2 inch of free travel of the pedal, then roughly about 3 inches of clutch resistance and the last 2 inches or so of travel it will get just a tad tighter, indicating the 2 separate stages of operation. (2 stage clutch). When bolted up, the fingers should be almost flat to the clutch assy, with the tips just a bit closer to the throw out bearing. If the tips are already too close to the clutch, there is no room to work. You may also be able to adjust these from outside.

 

[RICHARDL]

I GOT IT. I adjusted it all thru the side holes gapped it like ranch guy told me. Not ofense to the other posts. I have to do it a few times to make it work. but its working as of now. started putting it all back together last night. hopefully it wil be wofking by the weekend. I only use this tractor for my front end loader work. That goodness for ole John deere. I'm still waiting on Homier to call me back. Ordered the (3) forks they sent me one good thing the last time this happen i had some left over. its been 2 weeks. can't get anyone on the phone R thru email for 3 days. Boy i swear. any one know the ext. to the cheif over there? i'd sure like to speak with him for a spell

 

[Diamondpilot]

Just skip Homier all together. Order you parts from Tommy at Affordable, Ronald at Ranch Hand, or Chip at Artrac.

Chris

 

[RICHARDL]

Ok, well i thought i had my problem solved. Not so. i got it all back together. and it seemed to be working fine. The tractor started and i moved it out to make sure. well i was making final adjustments, tighting down everything and i noticed that my main clutch assembly bolts were't tight. so i tighten them down and re -adjusted my other setting. to make sure. well i went to move the tractor nothing pressed the clutch shifted it in gear nothing? no forward no reverse. So i loosed the clutch bolts i tighted and it worked again ??? Any one have a clue about this ????? Why when i tight the clutch assembly bolts it doesn't work?? and loose they do??? I think if i leave them loose they'll work themselves looser and fall out ??? i'm out of ideals