Farm Pro 2425 Front End Loader Removal

[dwillbanks]

I need to remove the Koyker 160 front end loader from my Farm Pro 2425 tractor and had a couple of questions about the hydraulic cables. I seem to remember that the two cables from the tractor need to be hooked together after they are disconnected from the loader to prevent pump damage. Is that true? If so, the cables from the tractor are too short to hook together. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks.

 

[piper184]

If you mean hydraulic lines, then probably. It totally depends on how the system is set up.

Post some pictures of your setup and we can more accurately give advise.

 

[dwillbanks]

On the control valve, the ones with no color bands go to the tractor. The ones with the color bands go to the loader - raise, lower, act, dump.

Thanks for looking.

 

[dwillbanks]

Also, this is from the Koyker manual.

 

[Tinhack]

Looks like you have an open center valve and no power beyond. The two lines with arrows need to be connected together. They are different sizes so some adapters or a made-up hose is needed.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I agree the two lines need to be hooked together, but I would try it at the couplers first. With engine off, disconnect both couplers and try to mate the two on the tractor end together. You won't know until you try.

 

[piper184]

No need to mess with the hoses at the loader control valve.
All you need to do is use the quick connects. Here is the procedure.

On a hard and flat surface, use the loader stands that are stored in the loader frame cross tube. Set the loader down on the stands. The bucket may have to be flat on the ground or tipped completely upside down as if you were dumping it all the way.

Then you pull the two pins with handles that hold the red loader frame to the black loader mounts. These may have locking bolt/nut arrangements, I can't tell from the picture. In any case you want to use the loader controls to take an forces off of the two pins so they can be pulled out.

Once the pins are out, you use the loader controls to "wiggle" the loader free from the mounts and then SLOWLY back the tractor up an inch or two to free it from the loader which should support itself just fine on the stand.

Now that the tractor is free, shut off the engine and manipulate the loader control to relieve any residual pressure in the lines. Also wiggle the steering wheel from side to side. Now all pressure in the hydraulic system should be gone.

Wipe the quick connectors clean with a rag and then slide the release collars back and uncouple the two sets of connectors. You will now have two lines attached to the tractor and two lines attached to the loader. Take the two lines from the loader and plug them into each other to keep them clean.

Take the two lines from the tractor and plug them into each other so that the pump will provide hydraulic fluid to the steering and the 3 point lift. DO NOT start the tractor until you are sure the tractor lines are properly connected to each other and the locking collars are properly seated. If the lines come loose or are not connected, the internal valves will stop the hydraulic fluid flow and this is when the pump can dead head and blow seals or other terrible things.

The system was designed with these quick connects installed in this particular configuration just for the purpose of removing the loader. Simple no tools needed unless you need to loosen a locking nut on the loader mount pins. No tools for the hydraulic lines should be needed.

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions.

 

[dwillbanks]

Thanks for the info. I’ll give it a try after the holiday weekend.

 

[dwillbanks]

Thanks for all the suggestions. i got the loader off and, as I supsected, the quick disconnects are too short to connect together. I think I'll get a short hose with disconnects to make a "jumper hose" so that I can connect them.

 

[piper184]

That is one solution.
However, there is usually a short hose connected to the priority valve instead of a hard 90 degree elbow. I would consider getting a hose that will replace that elbow and be long enough to re-use the quick connect you have. Thus saving the price of a pair of quick connects. You are buying a hose anyway.....