Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem

   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #11  
Here is a scan of my parts book. The page numbers are a little hard to see but #141 is a nut.

This jogged a memory. I think you can screw the Stud (#142) or nut to adjust the length. I don't remember exactly what I did as it was several years ago. Since the stud and nut are shown outside of the o-ring, you should be able to pull them out of the housing.

View attachment 2006 284 Diff-lock parts.pdfView attachment 2006 284 Diff-lock.pdf
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #12  
000_0110.JPG
OK. NOW I remember. I also see what is wrong with yours. You are missing the stud and nut. Take a look at this photo, you may have to zoom in. There is a stud (basically a bolt) that threads into the end of the plunger (shaft). This is where you adjust the length so it contacts the cam on the lever. The lock nut keeps it all in place.
My problem was the fork was not engaging the jaws far enough. I took it all apart only to discover that there was nothing wrong. I then took the lever off of the housing and discovered the adjustment. From there it was easy.
My lever looks different because I added an extension to get it into a more convenient place for me.
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #13  
PS, pardon the mess. I overfilled the hydraulics earlier this winter and it overflowed. Can't pressure wash in these temperatures. :)
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I’ll have to get in there closer. All I saw was the cap and maybe 1 turn of the spring. It gave a little when I pushed on it but it’s hard to push. I don’t remember seeing a nut on the outside. Would that be under the end cap on the the outside end of the spring?
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Ok that sounds like the missing link. So the cap on mine has to be pushed back in and the bolt and locknut thread into the end that you see in my picture? I’m not at home but I thought that was a solid cap.
Once this is fixed I’d be interested in your lever design as mine hits me in the leg too if I hold it up.
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I appreciate all your help. I’ll order the bolt and nut.
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #17  
You shouldn't be able to see anything on the outside of the housing except the end of the shaft and the o-ring. The shaft should have a hole in the end that is tapped to a 10MM thread. The book does not specify the pitch but I would bet it is 1.0. Spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner into the hole and see if you can expose the threads.
I would be tempted to buy a few different bolts that are 10MM in different lengths and thread pitches if available. That way you can see which one fits best. Once you figure that out, you might want to grind the head of the bolt into a slightly dome shape to make it engage the cam more smoothly. It might be a good time to put a new o-ring in there as well. They don't last real long in this kind of application. Mine probably is part of the mess you see in the picture.
I bet you don't have anything wrong inside. It is fairly robust and Ronald at Ranch Hand once told me he had never seen an internal part fail.
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #18  
Funny that my handle has to be pushed down to engage.

You guys all have to pull the handle up? So mine is backwards? I have to grab the handle and push down with my right hand and but my foot against it to hold it there.

A stupid design because lots of times we don't have an extra right hand to push down or pull up with. I wonder if I can reverse mine so I can pull instead of push?
Any body know?
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Mine is definitely push down as well. And it’s a tight fit by the seat. Would be nice if they would have allowed more room for my seat.
 
   / Farm pro 2524 / Jinma differential lock problem #20  
Yes, mine is push down too. Sorry I miss-spoke earlier. I must have had the PTO lever in my head at the time.
Look at my picture above and you can see that the direction the cam must travel in order to push the shaft inward toward engagement.
There were two reasons I extended the lever towards the fender. First it was hard to get to when bundled up for winter snowplowing, which is where I use the lock most of the time.
Second, the handle threads into the casting that is the cam. There is a jam nut that is supposed to keep the lever from turning. On my tractor the handle threads were shallow and the nut stripped them out. That had to be fixed so I added and extension at the same time. Has not come loose since.
In operation the weight of the handle is not sufficient to hold the lever in the engaged position. The force of the internal spring pushing the shaft against the cam is enough to keep the lever up.
 
 
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