Farm Pro (Jinma) 2430 Gearbox Problem

[KoonHunter51]

Clutch has no major problems, except engage/disengage at very "top" of pedal & very, very little grinding for PTO
Due to any maintenance not being performed on this tractor, (190 hrs)
I figured a clutch adjustment was needed
After finding the gunky gearbox fluid, I checked other fluids, & will be changing those also
I think tractor still has original oil & fuel filters
Since there is no hydraulic filter, is there a "screen" somewhere ?
David

 

[Affordable]

There is a brass screen inside the lift box if you do not have a external filter.If you are sitting in the seat it's on the left side, should have a large return hydraulic line attached to a bolt on flange. When you remove that flange/line you will see the filter its attached to it

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

I figured a clutch adjustment was neededDavid

I agree. "engage/disengage at very "top" of pedal & very, very little grinding for PTO" does not describe a clutch without problems. When properly adjusted, the transition between drive clutch and PTO clutch should happen at the 50% pedal release point. In otherwords - after fully depressing the pedal - the 1st 50% of travel should fully release the PTO clutch. At this point the tractor itself should not yet be moving. The second half of the pedal travel should gradually release the drive clutch. The operative word is "gradually", as opposed to "at the very top". And the PTO clutch should not "grind" at all.

But you're correct, these are not "major" problems. It's a matter of adjusting these undesirable traits out. The 50% release point is typically obtained by adjusting for the spec gap between the two halves of the clutchpack. I think the gap is 1.2mm, but it wouldn't hurt to confirm that with Affordable. If that doesn't correct the PTO grinding, you still have a pedal travel problem. This could be related to finger gap, pedal stop, et cetera. If necessary, the finger gap should be next, followed by another reassessment. This document may be helpful (pg22)

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

Thanks guys,
Tommy, is there a aftermarket kit to put a canister hydraulic filter on a Jinma ?
Just seems to me that little screen is not enough, but I don't use tractor a whole lot , & the screen may be OK.
greg_g, You are appreciated sir.
Although I didn't work on clutch today, I did take plate off. It looks narrow to access nuts, does it take thin wrenches ?
I also saw somewhere a photo thread post on Jinma clutch adjustment, with pictures, I can't find it now, but I thought it was for a 354.
Whoever did it had feeler gauges & all in their pictures, did you do it ?

I am retired now & have time to do things, but sometimes get lost on computer, I've owned 10/11 tractors (4 China) & remember well having to call or visit someone for help. Now, stuff pops up on this computer with a push of a button
David

 

[erj]

David,
Did you determine what was preventing it from going into 3rd gear?

 

[KoonHunter51]

Well erj, Maybe it was just stuck
I'm probably wrong, but I think it was a combination of moisture & low fluid.
I could not get the gears & forks to move by hand after removing the top plate, so I removed all the roll pins, squirted a little "Blaster" & was able to move gears & forks easy by hand, put the roll pins back in, could not move forks while on shift tube. I made a tool from a old chisel to fit in block where shifters fit & was able to change gears.
Drained oil, flushed twice with Kerosene, 19 qts of 80/90wt & gears are fine, I have used it a little scraping a driveway & no problems.
All gears seem a little tighter it takes just a little more pressure to shift gears
There is a little rust deposit, so I'll be checking after some use, the top plate was easy to remove & I made a new gasket
David

 

[greg_g]

It looks narrow to access nuts, does it take thin wrenches ?

Only the feeler gauges go through the inspection window. You make the adjustment at the threaded portion of the clutch pull rod. That's the rod that connects the bottom of the clutch pedal to the clutch release lever sticking out of the bellhousing. Adjusting the length of that rods moves the bearing carrier, which in turn moves the throwout bearing forward or backward. You adjust the length of that rod until you get your desired 2.5mm gap between the finger tips and the bearing face.

But all three fingers must touch the bearing face at the same time (tolerance only +/-0.1mm). If you see that's not happening, you will have to stick a pair of wrenches in there. One for the jam nut, one for the finger adjustment. It gets pretty cramped, and is pretty much guaranteed you won't escape without scraped knuckles.

Well erj, Maybe it was just stuck

Agreed. The fork associated with 3rd gear slides on one of those rusty rails. It gets moved by the finger tip at the bottom of the gear shift lever. It's quite likely that the fork just hung up on the rust. I might suggest that you remove the shift cover plate again and wet sand that rust with some emery paper and oil.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

Send me a e-mail and I will try to help walk you thru the clutch adjustment,everyone has a different way to adjust the clutch,we have adjusted a lot of clutchs and hopefully we can help you with our way

tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company