Farmall A steering parts

[DJ54]

I do believe the tie rod tube is the correct one.

 

[txdon]

Now I'm confused. The steering shaft is threaded and there is a cotter pin going through the bolt and shaft as the pic shows. But I don't have a Super A.

 

[DJ54]

I had to take a peek under my '47 this morning, just to check. It is like yours. My other one is I believe a '46 if I remember right (non runner). It is the other style, with the bolt through it. I had to think a bit, because I knew I had ground some out of the center of the split type, to snug it up on the steering shaft. Finally dawned on me, it was one I had did some R&R, added a belly mower, and sold 30 some years ago.

Being '47 was the last year for the A, before coming out with the Super A also in '47, and some improvements, I'd guess they used up the old style, and were set up with the style we have on the '47's.

In reality, the only wear points of the steering arm at the tie rod connection, should be on the tie rod end ball seats. If those are still in decent shape, I see no reason to get another one. But, that's up to you. You can always get the tie rods, and see if they stay snug. If not, get the new ball seats, as they are a whole lot cheaper than the arm, and a LOT less work to install.

 

[txdon]

Ok thanks that makes sense. The cutout at the bottom of your arm (where the tie rods slip in) looks like an eight, mine looks like an oval with the mid section metal worn, that is why the tie rod dropped, a combination of the arms wear and ball wear. The little coin like seats are still perfect and must be made of a harder metal. I'm tempted to get a welder to add metal to make the arm an eight again but it would be so much easier if it was off the tractor and not upside down, so either way it will have to be taken apart.

The nut that holds the arm in place is right up against the axel - can the screw be turned on top or does the steering box have to come off?

 

[DJ54]

Here's an exploded view of the steering box, from the Case/IH online part store, to give you an idea what's in there.Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts By the time you disassemble the steering box, it may be easier to drive the pivot pin out, and just drop the axle. A couple of jack stands to cradle the axle, and you should be able to set a hydraulic jack up on some blocking, and jack it up on the bell housing part of the torque tube.

Just jack it up enough to relieve weight off the pivot pin. Drive it out, then raise it on up enough to get the nut off. Most definitely block the wheels, and don't trust the hydraulic jack to hold it. More blocking/cribbing to hold it while you'd be under it. If taking the steering box apart would be more user friendly, then do so.

Years ago, I made some pieces to bolt onto the bosses on the side of the torque tube where the cultivators mount. Just some plates drilled to match holes, and 4" channel iron welded on them to set on cribbing. Not sure what you have available to work with though.

 

[txdon]

Thanks for the manual page and advise. Dropping the axel is the better route to take. I had a few things come up and it will be a few days before I can start on it so I may be asking some more questions later as I get into it. Thanks.

 

[DJ54]

I'll check back... If ever there is something else you want to look at parts wise on your tractor, click on the red box, that says "back to manual". It will take you back to the main menu, for the complete tractor. And maybe save that link in favorites for future reference.

 

[txdon]

By the time you disassemble the steering box, it may be easier to drive the pivot pin out, and just drop the axle. A couple of jack stands to cradle the axle, and you should be able to set a hydraulic jack up on some blocking, and jack it up on the bell housing part of the torque tube.

Just jack it up enough to relieve weight off the pivot pin. Drive it out, then raise it on up enough to get the nut off. Most definitely block the wheels, and don't trust the hydraulic jack to hold it. More blocking/cribbing to hold it while you'd be under it. If taking the steering box apart would be more user friendly, then do so.

Years ago, I made some pieces to bolt onto the bosses on the side of the torque tube where the cultivators mount. Just some plates drilled to match holes, and 4" channel iron welded on them to set on cribbing. Not sure what you have available to work with though.

Ok, All my parts are in and look good. I got two tie rods and the steering rod arm. I'm ready to drop the axel. The pin you are talking about is under the steering box. Just undo the bolt bracket, drive the pin out. I found 30" 12 ton jack stands at Harbor freight that will hold the front of the tractor up. I have a 3' piece of square tubing to insert in the square bracket behind the steering box and the jack stands on each end. That should give me 6" to drop the axel.

 

[DJ54]

You'll need to remove the bolt in that pin bracket. The pin has a rounded notch in it, to keep it in place. Other than that, sounds like you're good to go.

 

[txdon]

You'll need to remove the bolt in that pin bracket. The pin has a rounded notch in it, to keep it in place. Other than that, sounds like you're good to go.

DJ54 can the "U" bolt that loosely holds the axel under the motor be left on. It looks like it is about 2" under the axel and the axel on the steering box side could be dropped lower.