Farmall Super C Fast-Hitch & Hydraulics

[DJ54]

Got some pictures to help explain what I was talking about. If they are in the order that I downloaded, the first one should be of the IH 3 pt. conversion. Excuse the dusty tractor, I ground hay for my old mare today, and it is a rather dusty job...

The next two should show the rod from the touch-control, down to the front of the wishbone on the drawbar. In the very center of the wishbone is a loop to the front. This is to pin a swinging drawbar to.

The last picture should be one of the actual swinging drawbar. Came with it, but never used it yet. Would probably come in handy pulling a pull type disk, allowing a shorter turn, and keeping the rear tire out of the disk. I got a Fast-Hitch disk with it, but never used it yet. Not sure that ridgid frame would do near the job my M-F 6 footer will do, with independant floating, manually adjustable gangs. Some day may hook on to it, and see...

Should be able to get a good look close up, as I did not realize the camera was set to the largest picture size it would take... Just click on the image, and it should enlarge...

Hope this helps..!!

 

[sweettractors]

Got some pictures to help explain what I was talking about. If they are in the order that I downloaded, the first one should be of the IH 3 pt. conversion. Excuse the dusty tractor, I ground hay for my old mare today, and it is a rather dusty job...

The next two should show the rod from the touch-control, down to the front of the wishbone on the drawbar. In the very center of the wishbone is a loop to the front. This is to pin a swinging drawbar to.

The last picture should be one of the actual swinging drawbar. Came with it, but never used it yet. Would probably come in handy pulling a pull type disk, allowing a shorter turn, and keeping the rear tire out of the disk. I got a Fast-Hitch disk with it, but never used it yet. Not sure that ridgid frame would do near the job my M-F 6 footer will do, with independant floating, manually adjustable gangs. Some day may hook on to it, and see...

Should be able to get a good look close up, as I did not realize the camera was set to the largest picture size it would take... Just click on the image, and it should enlarge...

Hope this helps..!!

Most of those cultivators arte designed to clamp to the rear axle. I don't know if you will have enough clearance to use that type. If not, You could fab up a quick hitch on the reart cultivators. Ken Sweet

 

[DJ54]

Yeah, the tool bar that came with mine is the first I've seen. but it is set up to take out the rear tracks. There were a couple other shanks/shovels that came with it. Someone fashioned larger shovels out of like 3/16" diamond plate. I'm assuming to plant 'tater's or something... I just bolted them on, to keep from losing them.

At the other place I have an aftermarket Fast-Hitch post hole digger, built by I believe Rugg Mfg. Company of Newark, Ohio. Bought it years ago at an auction for next to nothing. Never used it though. I did have intentions to use it about a month ago, to dig some end post holes, now can't find the front portion of the PTO shaft, LOL... I'll find it one of these days...

 

[BoonvilleKid]

DJ54, thanks a bunch for those photographs. They were taken in just the right places to show what was needed. I've never seen this system work, but with your instructions I believe I've got it figured out. Now I'm wondering why Farmall went to all that work when Fergurson had developed the true 3-point many years earlier. I can see where this system could be adjusted side to side and front to back without getting off the tractor, but there sure is a lot of iron mass involved and the mechanical advantage or efficiency of the system is not the best. I believe I've got the cultivator system figured out too. I'm guessing the rear cultivator (3-shovels - 1 for each tire) were mounted to a bracket bolted to the rear axles - just like one did with the rear section of cultivator if you never had a Fast-Hitch system. When you did that, you un-hooked the rod that connected to the righthand rocker from the tube that connected to the front part of the Fast-Hitch yoke. You bolted the tube to the torque-tube portion of the tractor just to hold it in place. That's where that tube is connected on my tractor right now. You then installed the front cultivators with the left one controlled by a rod to the left/outside rocker and the right one controlled by a rod to the right rocker. Both of these were controlled by the left touch lever. Then you'd have to disconnect the flat bar on the left side of the tractor and place a rod from the left/inside rocker back to a u-shapped lift bar on the cultivator. The rear cultivator would be lifted/lowered by the right touch lever. The Fast-Hitch hydraulic lever would not be used.
I know I've got the "front" part right but I may be off a little on the "rear" part.
My Dad could always figure things out faster than me - I've got a college degree in Engineering and he never got to attend school past the 8th grade because he had to work at home on the farm........Trying to survive through the Depression left him with a passion to save every penny he could make. I don't know how a salesman ever talked him into buying a new tractor but I noted the salesman couldn't talk him into buying one with the Fast-Hitch. I know my Dad's thinking was: "I've already got a drag plow, drag disc, so I'd have to buy new plow, disc, etc. if I bought the Fast-Hitch. But, the tractor comes with hydraulic rocker arms so if I bought the cultivator I could take the kid that now rides the 2-row drag cultivator and put him on the plow tractor and the kid now driving the tractor to pull the cultivator could then operate the tractor and the cultivator". Makes sense to me now but when I was a kid I thought it would be pretty nifty to have a plow I could raise with a lever instead of pulling a rope and trying to adjust those stupid ole levers.
I've never seen a disc for a Fast-Hitch. I wouldn't think they would work too well due to the rigid frame required for lifting, especially on un-even ground.
Thanks again for the photographs and explanation.

 

[RickB]

DJ54, thanks a bunch for those photographs. Now I'm wondering why Farmall went to all that work when Fergurson had developed the true 3-point many years earlier.

A little clerical detail executed by Harry Ferguson called a patent.

 

[AKwelder]

Fast hitch had down pressure, witch had its uses. The fast hitch disc works great. But you need to change a setting, same as when mowing, that allows the load to rise, ( or stops the downward force)

My great grandfather and everyone of his line to me say a 2 point fast hitch is much better to hook up than any 3 point. In fact i never get my cheeks off the seat. You just get lined up and back into it like hooking up a 5th wheel hitch, lift and drive away.

The patent wars around hitches were intense, and are listed in the reading of the companies histories.

 

[DJ54]

Yes, I 've used the down pressure for more reasons than come to mind at the moment. One in particular, out of the ordinary, was to use the drawbar as a bead breaker on tires. Works pretty slick..!!

And the back into, and go is pretty handy. We made a rod, with loop handle on one end, and a "j" hook on the other... Just reach down, pull up, and go.

I guess the most used implement I have for it, is the carry-all platform. Has two stake pockets in the rear.. I'm using it right now on my other SC to haul fence posts, and tools. Have my Shaver Driver on my Ford 2000, and the C for support... A great combo..!!

 

[butch1277]

have farmall super c with hydraulic leak. where can I find a sight on the promlems and repair

 

[DJ54]

Possibly right here. Some pictures, and/or a good description would be a big help.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Yes, I 've used the down pressure for more reasons than come to mind at the moment. One in particular, out of the ordinary, was to use the drawbar as a bead breaker on tires. Works pretty slick..!!

A great combo..!!

It's also how you change the rear tires on the SuperC/200/230, etc. put a block unter the fasthitch drawbar on one side...run it down and that side rear tire will come off the ground...also how you change the width of the rear tread..slide in or out..BobG in VA