Farmall Super C Seized Engine

[BobG_in_VA]

DJ54 makes sense...if you honed the sleeves, put new rings in...by the way, if you drained the trans, it will take right at 5 gals of 80w-90 gear oil to refill...there is a small "plug" (either hex head or external 4 sided plug) on the right side of differential (from behind) about halfway up...this is the level of gear oil...obviously take it out..put 5 gals in the refill next to the gear shift, check for run out at the plug...good luck.. BobG in VA

 

[TommyJD790]

I haven't really looked too much at the trans or differential.
I think i 've seen the plug, but not really sure where the fill plug is.
I have a book coming, so I hope that will help.

Tommy-

 

[TommyJD790]

You want to take a real close look at those sleeves, and look for a vertical dark streak, ie: crack. Usually front, or back of sleeve, inline with crank.

New rings..??

Just hate to see someone do all that work, and have to do it all over again...

Oh yes, new rings are on the way.

Tommy-

 

[TommyJD790]

Well, I don't see any cracks in the sleeves, but should I just bite the bullet and replace them while everything's torn down?
It looks like i'd need a special puller to get them out, which I don't have.

Tommy-

 

[MIKE R]

It looks like i'd need a special puller to get them out, which I don't have.

You can also make a puller. A friend of mine made one out of threaded rod, 2 metal plates and some nuts. It wasn't the best set up but worked to get the sleeves out.

 

[DJ54]

That would have to be your call in my opinion. Again, I hate to spend someone else's money, if they don't have to. Sleeve set kits are in the neighborhood of $300.00+. Some kits are oversized to 3-1/4" bore giving you a little more power. I lucked out last year, and picked up a 3-1/4 bore sleeve/piston set on epay for $189.00.

If you do decide to go that route, might as well mic. the crank.

I have made my own puller from a piece if 5" channel for on top, and a 3/8" round disc for the bottom, and some grade 5 all thread. I've also just knocked them out. flipping the engine upside down on the engine stand. A good oak 4X4 long enough to clear the skirt of the bottom of the block, a 1" piece of oak cut to fit laid across the bottom of the sleeve, and a 4 lb. hammer. Several good licks, and they pop out.

Not sure what they use anymore to lube the sleeve seals, but we just always used Vasoline. Never had any problems over the years.

I am curious if there was any coolant left in the block. Sure seemed like an awful lot of water to go down around the rings. Be sure and check the webbing at the bottom of where the sleeves seal too. I have seen them crack there too. I'm sure not trying to get you down... Just want you to take a real good look, before ordering more stuff.

Be sure and flush the oil pump real well too..!!

 

[TommyJD790]

Thanks DJ54.

You're not really getting me down. I got down when I realized the engine was seized, and now I just want to get it back together.
I am trying to get it running for the least amount of money, but I only want to do this once.

I kind of doubt they will just pop out if I hammer them from the bottom, because I think they would have moved when I was hammering the pistons, but maybe with a bigger hammer , it might work.

I have been looking carefully for cracks all over the block and I don't see anything. That doesn't mean they don't exist. With my luck (bad luck), I'll get the thing back together and find out the hard way.

Tommy-

 

[TommyJD790]

Made the executive decision to pull the sleeves. Me and my 8 year old son knocked them out in about 5 minutes. That was easy.
I'm not used to that.
I closely inspected the sleeves and the block and i'm confident that there are no cracks.
Regardless, I'm still going to put new sleeves and pistons in, and even though it's costing me a little more, I think it's worth it just to have the peace of mind that nothing's going to break.
I'll have to return the piston rings that I have coming, but no biggy.

I actually feel like this is gonna work out well now.

Thanks guys for the advice.:thumbsup:

Tommy-

 

[Soundguy]

If the water is running out the full oil level plug so the pan is full and means the crank oil pump the timing gears main bearings rod bearing have been soaking in water for long time.
This is a easy to repaire engine instead of doing damage plan on rebuild will be doing the same anyways.
ken

yep.. that much watr in the pan.. I'd drop the pan and expect lotsa crank and tg work especially.. wouldn't even try to continue baring it.

might fill the cyls with atf and diesel though. might be able to salvage them jugs and pistons.. maybee not. rings probably toast..

 

[TommyJD790]

Installed new sleeves and pistons last night.
Put the crank and the camshaft back in also. Just waiting on a gasket set so I can button this thing up.
Engine turns much better now
Even though the sleeves and pistons cost me more than what I was originally planning to spend, I think it's worth it.

Tommy-