Farmtrac 25H Manual and parts source

[ptsg]

Still need a manual and now an electrical schematic....

Hey All, just an update on my FarmTrac 25H. 3pt works good and actually there is an AB valve on the Rear Aux and you flip it down, the 3pt works and lift it up, it feeds the Aux. Made up a pressure gauge and hyd pressure is 2500 psi at the rear aux port. I thought I read somewhere that normal tractor hyd psi is around 1500 psi, but I'm no expert.

With 2500 psi, the front loader should have a bit more capacity I would think. Trying to load up some old lawn mower carcasses and had trouble lifter some of them and I doubt they were in the 500 lb range. Played around with the joy stick and if I hit the tilt back on the forks sometimes the lift cylinders would get some flow and raise up. I need to reach out to the hyd company that supplied that and ask some questions.

The rear aux lever should have 3 positions. Up-Neutral-Down. The 3 pt should work with this lever in the middle position. If it only works if this lever is moved up or down, then there must be an issue with the power beyond fitting in this valve or on the loader valve. Most likely a bad o-ring in the fitting.

This may or may not explain why the loader seems week but would need an hydraulic diagram to confirm or deny that.

Also, have you tested the pressure at the loader valve?

The glow plug relay is not working and PO had them hot wired to a PB on the joystick. Wire connectors and PB were both bad so replaced them. Pulled the dash to look at the wiring and there are some wires loose back there. Looks like some for the electric PTO clutch and some missing ? for the glow plug relay. Now along with a manual, I need an electrical schematic.

Went to start it the other day to unload the new used coal stove and it wouldn't crank over. Now what???. Got out the meter to trouble shoot and started checking for voltage on starter solenoid, hit the key and it cranked over. This isn't the first time thats happened so maybe its time for a new starter switch. I see they list them on ebay that look similar so I guess I'll take a chance and drop $40 on one.

Can't help you much without a wiring diagram but the PTO clutch is a wet clutch with a solenoid valve to engage/disengage it. It's not actually an electric clutch like those on lawn mowers.

For the glow plugs, there is most likely a glow plug controller in the tractor. This is used to adjust the glow plug times accordingly to the coolant temp. It could be a bad relay, blown fuse or bad controller.

Any suggestions on PTO clutch wiring would be appreciated. And speaking of PTO, when I pulled the rototiller off to put on the box blade. The drive shaft appeared to be installed "backwards". The locking pin on the yoke was on the roto tiller side. There is not locking pin on the PTO side and I cant get the drive shaft off.

Is this something new that I"m not aware of? I had to separate the two halves to get the rototiller off and now I've got half a drive shaft hanging from the PTO. Not a safe situation.

Thanks, H

I imagine one of the ends of the PTO shaft uses the collar style instead of the pin style yoke. With the collar, you need to pull the collar back (it's spring loaded) and then slide the shaft out.

I attached a picture of my chain mulcher so you can get an ideia of what I'm trying to explain.

 

[HMC710]

Thanks ptsg!

The rear aux is only a 2 position. I'll double check and see if there is a 3rd position, but I don't think so.

I'll check for a collar on the drive shaft yoke. Thx.

Hyd PTO drive with solenoid, good info that means one wire should be hot and switch completes the circuit for solenoid.

I thought I mapped out the back of the ignition switch so I'll have to look back at that. There are OFF, ON, glow plugs, start positions. I saw the glow plug light turn on once when I tried to start it a few weeks ago, but nothing last time I tried.

Tractor also appears to have an electro magnet on the FWD pedal like a cruise control I'm guessing. I was getting a terrible scraping sound when pushing the FWD pedal so I took the magnet out, but then the tractor wouldn't start so I put it all back. If its a cruise control (magnet holds the FWD pedal arm in position?) its not working and there is no cruise control switch anywhere to be found. There panel / switch missing in the dash tho, but no spare wires I can see.

I took and adjusted all the pedal arms as they seemed bent a bit and helped out on the scraping. FWD pedal still does not return all the way if you let off so its hard to creep up on something without one foot on the brake and the other ready to hit REV.

Thanks!