Feedback on TC40DA/HST quote

[timo]

"There is essentially the same engine RPM/Torque relationship between both gear and HST tractors"

I'm not concerned about the rpm/torque relationship of the engine for doing work as much as the need for the hst pump to run at a certain (relatively high) rpm to maintain proper flow to prevent cavitation, overheating etc. I was under the impression that this was required and that the hst isn't happy lugging (irrespective of whether or not the engine is). I'll have to do some searching.

 

[timo]

Bob, Any concerns about plowing with the hst? Specifically with overheating, blowing off or reduced life?

See discussion here: plowing with hst

I'm not doing anywhere near as much work as the guy in the above thread but I'm not sure how much is too much.....

tim

 

[PineRidge]

The majority of my finish mowing is done at 2000 RPM. I putter around the lot at 1700 RPM, but I will kick it in the behind if need be for more hydraulic flow.

 

[Doc_Bob]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob, Any concerns about plowing with the hst? Specifically with overheating, blowing off or reduced life?

See discussion here: plowing with hst

I'm not doing anywhere near as much work as the guy in the above thread but I'm not sure how much is too much.....

tim )</font>

Tim, great link! I will not be doing a lot of plowing. The link mentioned an additional axillary HST tran cooler. Now that seems like a great idea. Years ago I had an old air cooled VW bus. I had an auxiliary oil cooler mounted on the side of the bus. Very unsafe if you happened to be a pedestrian, but kept the engine cool in Southern California when running at 70 MPH in the middle of July.

Now, to get back to the question at hand, how hard is it to instal an axillary cooler for an HST???
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

Okay, question on draft control. I assumed (incorrectly???) that draft control will also work with a tiller. Is this correct? I assumed that if a tiller was getting more force applied to it, that draft control would "pick it up" and lessen the load on the tiller.

As always, your help is always appreciated!
Bob

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Okay, question on draft control. I assumed (incorrectly???) that draft control will also work with a tiller. Is this correct? I assumed that if a tiller was getting more force applied to it, that draft control would "pick it up" and lessen the load on the tiller.
)</font>

Bob, if a tiller is getting "more force applied" you need to slow down, not pick up the tiller. Draft control is for ground engaging pull-type implements that dig deeper based on their geometry and the position of the 3PH. Draft control and a rotary tiller have no association whatsoever. Your infinitely variable speed in the HST is the best feature for tilling. That's the feature that makes the gear guys jealous when using a tiller. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You are not planning on plowing 40 or 50 acres are you? If you plan on plowing 2 or 3 acres, you will NEVER overheat that HST. I used my tractor to dig out spoils left by a dozer in my stock pond. I'd work all day and the HST seemed to be in and out of stall all day long. I never saw any overheating of the HST. I can't imagine any danger of that in a small garden or acreage.

 

[daTeacha]

I got my DX29 last night. I was using it to move some newly laid (too thick) gravel up the drive. It tended to keep stalling as I learned the new loader controls -- the HST, not the engine. Is this just a driving technique this old gear grinder needs to learn, then? It sure seemed odd to not hear the engine slow down much.

If you could explain just what to expect as I ask this thing to do some work, I'd probably feel better about it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It tended to keep stalling as I learned the new loader controls -- the HST, not the engine. Is this just a driving technique this old gear grinder needs to learn, then? It sure seemed odd to not hear the engine slow down much.
)</font>

My best advice would be for you to start in the lowest range, and then when you get used to using the FEL and feathering the HST pedal, see if you can operate in a higher range. Except for backdragging and hauling buckets to another location, I normally operate my tractor in its lowest range when using the FEL. Remember, the most power comes with the least pedal deflection.

Of course, it's easier for me since all I have to do is press a button on the joystick to shift between the two lower ranges. Frankly, when I'm digging into dirt or a pile with the loader, I'm in the lowest range, 4WD, and differential lock. Its just automatic for me to do that.

 

[PineRidge]

Learn to keep a light foot on the HST pedal in range 1 until you get used to the power band and keep the RPMs up when moving heavy loads or pushing into a pile. Diesel engines don't take kindly to lugging.

If you feel that a stall is eminent immediately go to stop on the HST pedal to recover.