Snow FEL Bucket Cutting Edge Lesson's Learned

[Shield Arc]

Makes one wonder if John Deere used an AR plate for the cutting edge.
Me personally I'd do just as k0ua suggest! I'd pad weld it up with 7018. Back stepping and skipping around so as not to warp the cutting edge. Then hard face the cutting edge, and the bottom of the cutting edge with a pattern like this bucket was done.

 

[Shield Arc]

I just replaced a cutting edge last year for a buddy of mines brother-n-law's FEL. A lot of work, with pre-heat and cool down. First you have to scarf, or grind out all the original welds. To me it's a lot quicker to pad weld, and hard face.
Here is the thread I did about that project.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/277728-bucket-extension-project.html?highlight=

 

[Rustyiron]

Urbandeere, you're cutting edge looks like you're still in the front bevel, far from "destroyed". I'd say get another year out of it (at least) just don't wear it into the end panel of the bucket. Chances are that this past winter for you in n. VA was an oddity. When the time comes, get a pre drilled cutting edge that will accept a b.o.c.e. (bolt on cutting edge). These parts should be available at a Bobcat or any decent skid steer dealer. I suggest a SS dealer as they will likely have a width that suits your machine. I'd guess that each edge should be about 200-250 + the bolts. Take it all to a local welder, get an estimate if you like. With this set up the boce is reversible and an easy job to do & eventual replacement is just bolts. I you allready have a tooth bar, it may not work with this set up.

 

[mechanic327]

I would look at the controll valve. There is no way float is working for an edge to look like that.

 

[jcummins]

For winter snow plowing, I slotted a pipe and put over the edge....got the idea from this forum. Worked pretty good.

 

[4310]

Is that a metal pipe?

I put an ABS (if I remember right, it was black plastic) pipe on the front bucket and rear blade this past winter. I loved how it worked but they both broke after a couple uses.

If I can slot a metal pipe (somehow) and beat it on the bucket and blade with a hammer like I did the plastic I will go that route.

....and to add something so I can't be blamed for hijacking.
My drive is about 200'. Half concrete, half gravel. My bucket was brand new and it shows some wear after this winter. Not as bad as the OP's but I notice it.

 

[jcummins]

My drive is 1/2 blacktop 1/2 gravel and a half mile long. If I lived further north I'd want a blade...but given the number of snows we get...the pipe works fairly well.

Tabs that I hadn't welded on the bar not in the pic. You can see the holes in bottom of bucket. I bought tractor used and the holes were already there so I used....otherwise I would have drilled the side of the bucket and install like a toothbar.

 

[4310]

Okay I see two holes now.

So you welded two tabs to the pipe and put a bolt through the tabs and the holes in the bucket?

How did you slot the pipe?

 

[k0ua]

Many ways to slot the pipe, but one cheap way would be to snap a chalk line on it for a guide, then turn your 4 1/2 inch angle grinder on edge and follow the line. Of course if you had a mill you could use that.. but a harbor freight angle grinder for a few bucks, and some disks would work. Be sure to wear you eye protection.

 

[rredhawkk]

I read your post with interest, I did the snow removal up north from you in North East Pa. with my bucket on my 1025 R and it did a great job. I have a manual angle blade to adapt to my bucket when time allows . You didn't say how long your drive is but from the wear on the blade it must be considerable, my blade has almost no wear. Take KOUA's advise and just weld on the edges to build it up then grind to a reasonable likeness, I doubt I would get involved buying, selling, trading blades or buckets. Then again that's my honest opinion, my thinking is I'm going to buy a welder soon for other projects and that's going to come in handy with my tractor as well. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.