FEL control valve on YM1900

[Gary Sweat]

good job :thumbsup: would you mind sharing with us how much you have invested in the FEL you built? we all know these cost new 3k+ and if one is lucky as I was can pick up a good used one for half cost of a new one, although I haven't a clue as to how much it would cost to build one?

The decision to build verses buying one for me was based on two things. 1) I wanted to build it as small as possible (and still be useful) so as not to overtax the tractor frame and steering and 2) I just wanted to see if I could do it. The only part I did not build (other than the hydraulics) is the bucket. I had that made.

I have learned over the years that you can build some things cheaper only if you do not factor in the labor, material waste, and you take a lot of time laying out everything. You are still going to miss something that will show up at the worst possible point in the build and have to rework something you have already put hours into. Here's how it breaks down.

Steel - $199.00
Bucket Fab - $550.00
Fabrication of steel plates - $180.00
Hydraulics - $1,302.00
Misc hardware - $26.00
Paint & primer - $41.00
Welding costs - I have no idea what the wire and electricity cost.

Total $2,298.00
Subtract from that about $80.00 in wasted steel, fittings and lines (learning to use the tubing bender) and you wind up with $2,218.00

It can be built cheaper and I would do a few things differently if I were to build another one (which I don't plan on) but the first one is a learning process. I did the machining on my lathe and milling machine and believe me, there are more small parts than you would think.

Overall, if you take the time and money to build a professional looking loader, you are not going (IMO), to come out ahead. Can't wait to start on the backhoe project

 

[Gary Sweat]

Finally found something to make the extended dipstick with. I settled on a piece of 8-32 brass all thread. Drilled and threaded the cap and used Vibra-TITE to lock it in. At least if it falls in the tranny, the gears should have no problem chewing up the brass:licking:

 

[Gary Sweat]

In regards to the transmission dipstick, I have a question:

Do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just set it on top of the hole to check the level? I ask this because it makes a difference of 1/2" on the stick. I can't find any reference to this in my service manual and I did search a bunch of posts but didn't find anyone asking about it. I never thought to check this in the past as I just put in the 4 gallons and left it at that.:ashamed:

Now that I have added the loader and made the longer dipstick I don't know which reading is correct and I would rather not have to take the lines off and put the original dipstick back in just to find out.

 

[careyo63]

Just came up on another forum. Just in to the Threads better to have a little to much then not enough.

Carey

 

[deepNdirt]

In regards to the transmission dipstick, I have a question:

Do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just set it on top of the hole to check the level? .

Gary, I've read that if the dipstick is the threaded type it should be removed and wipe the stick and then set it back in on top of the hole ( do not thread back in ) to get an accurate reading, although if it is a push in type stick then it should be pushed all the way in for the correct reading,

 

[Gary Sweat]

Thanks guys. I just never thought about how to check it. I always change the tranny oil every year and just pored in the 4 gallons as it was always the same amount when I drained it. The oil is always a tan color when I change it and assumed it was getting condensation in the the case from being hot and cold.