FEL removal

[seacap04]

Took the FEL off my 07 DK45 today. I bought used and have had tractor for a year and half. Came off just like manual said it should. I do believe this is the first tme the FEL has been off this tractor since install. There was no sign of any lubricant in the pins and they were starting to corrode. I cleaned everything up and lubed the pins and bottom of FEL. Glade I had to remove FEL for another repair. Not sure I could have gotten the pins out in another year or two.

 

[ddb123]

Would like to hear your experience of reinstalling. Just curious for my own sake.

 

[seacap04]

I will say installation was not quite as per manual. I had to use a crow bar to raise back end of FEL about 1/32 of an inch to put both pins back in. Other than that just like manual says. Far eaiser than expected. I have also weided a commericial wear blade on end of FEL bucket that may have made back end of FEL sit lower in Brackets. Wish I had taken some pics, but had too much time invested on taking pics for another repair. If you want to do this help is at your finger tip., I will say far easier than I expected.

 

[ritcheyvs]

seacap, I've never removed the FEL from my 06 DK45s so I'm interested in your experience. I've heard the critical thing is a flat surface to R&R the FEL. What kind of surface were you parked on?

By the way, I've had my bucket on and off and it's really easy with the skid-loader-type quick attach system.

 

[seacap04]

I am lucky to have a big shop with smooth concret floor. I think any firm level suface would work. Firm so the bucket edge and suport legs don't sink in. Fairly level so that the FEL will go back into brackets evenly. The back end of Fel is not too heavy and fairly easy to move a little by hand. Good luck. I also really cleaned around the hydraulic disconnects with brake cleaner before I disconnected.

 

[Coyote machine]

I too have only removed the entire FEL assembly once and am glad I did because of what Seacap04 said about the pins. They were needing a wire brush and lots of grease too. We did the removal outside on my barn's gravel driveway area. If I recall we may have put blocks under the fold down feet to reduce chance of sinking. On reinstall I believe we may have reconnected the hydraulics BEFORE the arms and pins for ability to move the FEL assy around, up/down during pin install.
Over all an easy job, and one that every FEL owner should do to prevent pin / bushing damage or possible seizure.

 

[kco]

I remove and reinstall the loader almost weekly over the summer time. It gets easier after the first couple of times. It takes about 5 minutes to remove and perhaps 5 or 10 to reinstall.

My removal is done on a fairly level gravel area. The support legs sink an inch or two but it doesn't interfere. After removing the pins the bucket is tilted to raise the arms 4" or so above the support. Then back out a few inches and remove the hydraulic lines. I have a ski strap handy to tie them up on the loader arm.

Before doing so I drain a small amount of oil out of each line as suggested by another poster in another thread. It prevents extreme pressure buildup if the temperature is warmer when the loader is reinstalled.

To reinstall one drives into the arms, lining them up above the supports. Then reinstall the hydraulic lines and tilt the loader in. It seems easy to get the first pin in and the other may need a bit of adjustment. I find it is easy to use a bar at the loader bucket to lever it so the 2nd pin can line up. I keep a plastic dead blow hammer handy. As long as the pin's taper goes in it is easy to finish it with the hammer. I occasionally spray Fluid Film on the pins.

I think the most difficult task is reconnecting the four hoses. I have a small tarp so I can lie under the tractor to do that. It's easier (for me) than trying to plug them in from the side.

The loaderless tractor is far easier for mowing in tight places and a lot of fun to drive. It feels like a go cart!

 

[seacap04]

I disconnected hoses when FEL was out of brackets and reconnected before puttin FEL back in brackets. Make sure tractor is off and move FEL joy stick all around to relieve presure. Hoses diconnected and reconnected without any problems. I did have to use a crow bar to lift FEL a little to get pins in. Bucket curl and FEL raise and lower only seemed to move FEL fore and aft in brackets. I agree that once you do a couple of times it should go quick.

 

[joshuabardwell]

There was no sign of any lubricant in the pins and they were starting to corrode. I cleaned everything up and lubed the pins and bottom of FEL. Glade I had to remove FEL for another repair. Not sure I could have gotten the pins out in another year or two.

My manual says to lube my loader every ten hours of use, and I follow that advice. Lube is cheap insurance.

 

[seacap04]

Unfortunately the only way to lube them is to remove them. I wish they had grease fittings. I had been thinking of them as similar to the top link pin in a 3pt hitch.

But if anyone out there is going to start pulling these pins on a regular basis for lube, be careful and remember your FEL is not "locked" onto your tractor anymore.

 

[DK35vince]

My manual says to lube my loader every ten hours of use, and I follow that advice. Lube is cheap insurance.

Yes, the loader pivot joints.
The loader latch pin only needs grease every year or 2 to help put it in/out for loader removal.

 

[Oleozz]

Only took the loader off one time on my cabbed DK45. What a pain, now the only thing that's removed is the bucket.

 

[DK35vince]

I put my loader on/off many times per year.
I have a spot leveled up where the loader goes on/off with ease. I park the loader in the same spot every time and can remove and install it in minutes.

 

[seacap04]

Also thinking about it, if I had put blocks under the legs I would have had more usable height at the end of FEL. When I put it back on I could not get the height I needed using hydraulics to put pins back in I was in a hurry at this point and did not really look at issue to figure it out. I must of had the height on removal to get it out of the brackets. Lifting with crow bar was a quick and easy way to get pins back in. Maybe I didn't operate hydraulics long enough to get even presure back on all cylinders.

 

[kco]

You should be able to get lots of clearance to raise the loader bracket above the pin holes just by curling the bucket with the pins removed. Curl it enough to get 4" or so extra clearance so you can easily drive back under it if it settles a bit.

Shut down the tractor and move the controls to equalize pressure, disconnect the hoses and back out. Clearance should not be a problem.

 

[frenchie4x4]

I remove my loader regularly. ONLY curl the bucket it will lift the loader arms out of brackets. Do NOT try to raise or lower loader it will move the loader arms front or back out of alignment with each other! I repeat that ONLY use the CURL and DUMP control for the bucket and the pin holes will line right up. It gets easier every time you do it. And definitely on solid level ground. Yes it is like driving a go cart with out the loader and is so much easier to bush hog with out the loader.

 

[grsthegreat]

the first time i removed mine, it was pretty hard to get the pins out. I also lubes them before reinstall, and a few months later i was able to pop the pins out fairly easily.

ive had the loader off 3-4 times since new. never have much need to remove it.

 

[seacap04]

On the cement floor in my shop in my shop the curl was pulling the FEL back and forth as in dragging the stands with it. In doing so was knocking the raise cylinders out of alignment. I wish I had the time to really ck this out for future use, But as I said easy lift with crowbar solved it. Also I have a big wear blade on my bucket, the same as highway snowplows.

 

[Dingo Man]

View attachment 292102I am lucky to have a big shop with smooth concret floor. I think any firm level suface would work. Firm so the bucket edge and suport legs don't sink in. Fairly level so that the FEL will go back into brackets evenly. The back end of Fel is not too heavy and fairly easy to move a little by hand. Good luck. I also really cleaned around the hydraulic disconnects with brake cleaner before I disconnected.

I wish I had a shop like that. I live in Penobscot County maybe we should become friends:laughing:

 

[seacap04]

Available any time you need it, just give me a holler.