FEL tooth bar

   / FEL tooth bar #31  
I don't have any experience using a tooth bar but have tons of experience trying to uproot cedar trees without one.... Last Monday, I ordered a toothbar from Gator, formerly Markham. After a weekend at the ranch, the Warden and I arrived home yesterday to find my new toobar in our carport. I was shocked.
I found ordering it by phone was quite pleasant. Talked to a lady named Stella. She was one of those folks that had a smile in her voice. I can hardly wait to get it installed and see what it will do for me... If the weather cooperates, I'll provide a report next week.
 
   / FEL tooth bar #32  
I love my W.R. Long flat tooth bar Tooth Bars TB, STB, and ITB The company was easy for my local dealer to work with, even when someone (and I'm not sure it wasn't the local folks) messed up and wrote down the wrong dimension on the order and another had to be made for me. The replacement was sent quickly. It is well made and I've not taken it off since putting it on. The great thing about it is the flat wear bar on the underside of the bucket and back dragging to a pretty good surface with it. No ruts from the teeth, unless I want them...
 
   / FEL tooth bar #33  
I have a tooth bar and and mount it to my FEL for certain tasks. It attaches easily with one large bolt on either side. I used a hole saw to make the holes in the side walls of the bucket...no biggie. It's handy for digging/loading loose material, and provides some extra capacity for things like firewood, but for me it's not the be-and-end-all I thought it would be. Others may find it indispensable. It requires more space/care when maneuvering in close confines, and you want to avoid whacking your shin on that thing when walking around your tractor. Trust me on that one.
 
   / FEL tooth bar #34  
I have a tooth bar and and mount it to my FEL for certain tasks. It attaches easily with one large bolt on either side. I used a hole saw to make the holes in the side walls of the bucket...no biggie. It's handy for digging/loading loose material, and provides some extra capacity for things like firewood, but for me it's not the be-and-end-all I thought it would be. Others may find it indispensable. It requires more space/care when maneuvering in close confines, and you want to avoid whacking your shin on that thing when walking around your tractor. Trust me on that one.
They can do the shins as well as punch holes in vinyl siding if one gets to close.:)
 
   / FEL tooth bar #36  
Thinking about making a toothbar for my BX25 FEL as a winter project...but I have a feeling my 115V Hobart Handler 140 just won't do the trick with the steel I'd probably need to make it from. The welder is rated up to 1/4" max.

Not an issue regarding how I'd mount the toothbar (haven't decided how I'd do that yet) but rather I just don't know if I can get the project off the ground at all with a small welder like this one.

Any thoughts? (besides getting a 240V welder?). I don't want to spend time making something flimsy that will break or be useless because the stock used would be too lightweight.:confused:
 
   / FEL tooth bar #37  
I made my own toothbar.
Was able to purchase the holders and teeth (some spares as well) from FABCO of Findly, Oh..
All told my oulay was a tad over $100, but then I have a welder.
It is an easy build!

Fabco Inc., 800-628-2715
I am not affiliated in any way with them.

I too was thinking of building a tooth bar and was wondering what part numbers you used?
 
   / FEL tooth bar #38  
I too was thinking of building a tooth bar and was wondering what part numbers you used?

You really need their catalog as you have many variations involved.
-The thickness of the bucket plus cutting edge and then the flat bar you wish to weld the toothholders to.
Then there is a few choices of tooth holder and also the type of teeth.
I used a 1/2" X 3" flat bar to weld the holders to thinking I needed the strength but to do it over again I'd suggest 3/8" flat is just fine.
The holders ar like a hand with the thumb under and fingers welded to the flat bar.
At both ends of the flat bar you have 2 ears that slip inside of the bucket sides and get bolted to the side wall of the bucket.
They act as retainers and dont work, in fact I used 3/8" bolts and after 4-5 years there is no sign of wear.
The shanks were $6.90 ea, teeth $2.09 ea plus flex pins at $1.00 ea. (05 prices) wow time flies! That is their 3C series of components.(about best size for CUTS)
I used 6 for my 48" bucket.

Hope this info is of help. Good luck, happy welding!
 
   / FEL tooth bar #39  
I have a tooth bar and and mount it to my FEL for certain tasks. It attaches easily with one large bolt on either side. I used a hole saw to make the holes in the side walls of the bucket...no biggie. It's handy for digging/loading loose material, and provides some extra capacity for things like firewood, but for me it's not the be-and-end-all I thought it would be. Others may find it indispensable. It requires more space/care when maneuvering in close confines, and you want to avoid whacking your shin on that thing when walking around your tractor. Trust me on that one.

I have to agree here. Mine actually stays on most of the time just because it's easier but for moving bulk material like dirt it actually detracts from the performance of the fel. Probably because the toothbar is a greater percentage of the weight capacity on a smaller tractor like my BX. So my fel seems to struggle a bit with a full load with the toothbar on.

BTW, I learned early on to keep the bucket grounded whenever I get off the tractor. Only needed to hit my shins once!
 
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   / FEL tooth bar #40  
Thinking about making a toothbar for my BX25 FEL as a winter project...but I have a feeling my 115V Hobart Handler 140 just won't do the trick with the steel I'd probably need to make it from. The welder is rated up to 1/4" max.

Not an issue regarding how I'd mount the toothbar (haven't decided how I'd do that yet) but rather I just don't know if I can get the project off the ground at all with a small welder like this one.

Any thoughts? (besides getting a 240V welder?). I don't want to spend time making something flimsy that will break or be useless because the stock used would be too lightweight.:confused:



You need a strong welder at @110 amps - 1/8" 6010 rod all the way.


later
 

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