FEL Tree Trimmer

[RitchElbe]

So I am moving implements around today..and I was pondering your challenge. I use a pto drive powered sickle mower with a belt to the bar..which allows me via hydraulics to angle the bar straight up for ( trimming low branches, hedges, limbs etc or go negative for banks...) then it hit me..can you do the same thing with the disk mowers like this? maybe hit up a metal fab shop for used metal cutting saw blades,, replace cutting disk with those? mount a stop bar a few inches in from the orbital tip of the blade to stop the branches from twisting around said blade. power it via hydraulics.. so you can fashion a quick attach to the FEL. Counter weight opposite side rear from the FEL side its weight is on? attached is a pic of one about the same size as mine

 

[jbooth]

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

 

[kneedeep]

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

 

[kneedeep]

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad04hdfZA0A

 

[XxLT250RxX]

So I am moving implements around today..and I was pondering your challenge. I use a pto drive powered sickle mower with a belt to the bar..which allows me via hydraulics to angle the bar straight up for ( trimming low branches, hedges, limbs etc or go negative for banks...) then it hit me..can you do the same thing with the disk mowers like this? maybe hit up a metal fab shop for used metal cutting saw blades,, replace cutting disk with those? mount a stop bar a few inches in from the orbital tip of the blade to stop the branches from twisting around said blade. power it via hydraulics.. so you can fashion a quick attach to the FEL. Counter weight opposite side rear from the FEL side its weight is on? attached is a pic of one about the same size as mineView attachment 397782

Some good stuff here.

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

Excellent information. Thanks

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

Ha Ha I love this. When you are done with him I Would like to hire him as well!:laughing:

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

I actually built my own version of the Limbhog. I patterned it after the Limbhog but used a Sears Craftsman 110v electric chainsaw (cheap). I run it off a generator I carry on the rear of my tractor. It actually works really good on larger limbs but it is very fragile. I'm sure the first time it hangs on something it will be ripped apart.

 

[RitchElbe]

Off topic question. You wouldn't have any sections of osage orange dried out by chance would you?

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

 

[jbooth]

Off topic question. You wouldn't have any sections of osage orange dried out by chance would you?

I have lots of osage orange in all condition from posts that have been in the ground for 50 years to standing dead and standing green. Just cut about 2 cords for firewood yesterday. Rather I had a bunch of young bucks cut it on shares for the same reason I don't like pole saws and weed eaters. Osage orange is some of the best firewood you can get if your stove will stand the heat. I have roughly a mile of standing hedge row. We held back on cutting some of the bigger straight trees that I have down with the hopes of making saw logs/lumber.