Felling Trees Using FEL - Feelish?

[GrowFarmers]

You guys on the West coast make an under-cut/wedge....
We use the saw-sights and make a wedge-cut (TOP) on the same side (fall side) then push the tip of the saw through the tree center and cut towards the back, where most people make their usual back-cut. we leave the last 3" to 4" intact and pull the saw out, then drive wedges which create an upward pressure. Next, finish the back-cut at a downward 45* angle to meet the plunge-cut. the result is the tree usually jumps in the direction it's supposed to fall. You still need to leave a minimum of two inches for the hinge or you'll never control the direction of fall!

Plunge cuts are great, I was just introduced to them a few months ago as a good way to cut leaning trees. I hadn't heard of using the wedges before, that is a good idea. I agree without an adequate hinge you don't have good control.

 

[turnkey4099]

X2 on the cable thing.
But the problem with the cable idea is if the cable slackens when the tree begins tipping, it can move in a sideways direction by 45 degrees or so and you will miss that 2-4 foot drop zone, but it's better than a tractor pushing to a point and I have done that plenty also.
What works really well for me if you have room is to run that long cable out and hook it to a truck or tractor and put pressure on the tree. As soon as someone starts cutting the backside start pulling and pull quickly so you don't lose any slack. It will fall in exactly the area you want it to fall.
In close situations like that I may even hook another cable to put pressure towards the area where nothing can get damaged, just in case someone panics and forgets to put the car in gear or doesn't get going in time.

Yep, the cable only guides the tree the first few inches of fall. I tried getting a 'long' pull by attaching several 5 gal buckets of water midways of the cable, clear of the ground so they would pull while dropping. Dunno if it _did_ help but the tree went where I wanted.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I use a 24' extension ladder but don't go all the way up. I would guess about 15 feet or so works for me. Then I put a lot of tension on it with a come along or a truck. That worked good for my 60-75' somewhat straight trees trees, although I think it would work good for any tree. When I can get a tree leaning a little bit from all the pressure I exert, I feel fairly confident it will go in that direction.

But, I was dropping a 75' tree with not many branches in the bottom 45 feet. This was about 10 feet from a pole building and wanted to drop it down the driveway close to the pole building. I had my wife in the truck with a 100 cable hooked about 15' up the tree with some tension on the cable. It was all planned out ahead of time. As soon as I started cutting and could see the tree start to lean and fall I stepped back and started waving my arms at my wife to start backing up. She thought I wanted something else so she sat there. The tree came down in the general direction but as soon as the tension was off the cable the tree has a mind of it's own and no stopping it. It landed about 2 feet away along the side of the building. That was almost a disaster. Still, for me it's the best way to go as long as there is a well thought out plan ahead of time covering all the scenarios.

I have rigged many trees with cables and used my F150 to pull with. Bottom line is that no operator in the truck can keep up with the fall of the tree. That cable _will_ slack within a few feet of pulling on it. Great to get it started in the right direction but it won't control it very long.

Harry K

 

[MotorSeven]

I think you would be better hiring James...the guy is simply amazing at tree felling:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEMxhaB-a5c]Blooper James Narcoleptic Tree Cutter - Funny - Trees Falling - Best Shot Footage - Stock Footage - YouTube[/ame]

The worst thing I saw was the homeowner who embarrassed all mankind by running like that.....simply deplorable.

 

[turnkey4099]

On subject of pussing with the FEL. My brother asked me to help him remove a Black Walnut, to include cutting stump below ground. That was way back in my early (dumb) days of using a saw. He had borrowed the neighbors 8 or 9n with bucket. We topped the tree about 6 feet up, cleared that up and I tried cutting the stump. Went as I should have known. Chain dulled instantly, much chewing away at it, resharps, etc and still couldn't get it. Brother's brilliant idea - push with loader to get some clearance for the saw bar in the kerf (saw was cutting crooked.

Done and I watched as he raised thebucket, it contacted tree, slid right up the remaining stem lifting the front wheels, up over the top and back down with the stem now coming up between the bucket and the nicely smashed in grill work on the tractor.

We agreed that it was not a "good idea"

Harry K

 

[300UGUY]

I've done it, but I try not to these days. I had one come back toward me once. Scacred the xxxx outta me. I have used wedges, but mostly to free up a pinched saw.

 

[Pilot]

Never, never, never put a lot of tension on that cable with anyone near it!

Here's what can happen--a leaning tree is like one with tension on a cable:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YAf61zz5VU]Falling a tree gone wrong (Barber chair) - YouTube[/ame]

Imagine what would happen to a tractor with a bucket up against the tree when it splits and pops?

I am not a faller, but here are some basics:

The wedge sets the direction. The wedge should be no deeper than 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter. If there is a lean, and you are trying to fall the tree in the direction of lean, cut a smaller wedge.

The back cut is done a couple inches higher then the apex of the wedge. That's to make a step so that when the tree falls, the step keeps it from kicking back. When limbs hit, it can still kick back, but it won't come off the stump until them.

The hinge, the wood between the back cut and the wedge, controls the fall to make sure the tree falls in the direction of the wedge. Both sides of the hinge should be parallel. If it's narrower on one side than the other, then when the tree starts to go it can break where the hinge is narrow and pivot.

I have used cables on leaning trees, but I only put a little tension on the cable before I finish cutting--mostly to make sure it is tight enough to be sure it won't come back and pinch the bar. If the tree diameter is large enough, I put falling wedges in the back cut to make sure it won't fall that direction and to help the cable. Then I start to pull it over with a come along and cable anchored to another tree or stump. I pull it up, then over in my direction (my cable is longer than the tree height by a safe margin). If it doesn't go, then I release most of the tension before going back and cutting the back cut a little deeper, then pull again. So far, it's worked every time and there have been no heart attack moments. Trees were 12-14" in diameter and 55-60 ft. tall.

No pickup and no tractor needed, no racing ahead when the tree starts to go and from where I am jacking with the come along I can watch the top of the tree.

I cut 6 trees leaning toward my house, all fell about where I wanted.

As I said, I am not a faller, so think it through before copying my method. The cable will keep the tree from falling backward--after all you have it guyed on one side with your cable. Just don't put a lot of tension on the tree before cutting. Remember the video. A lot of guys have been killed by barber chairs.

 

[texasjohn]

LMAOROF from James instructional tree felling video.:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[wcampbell47]

As soon as I started cutting and could see the tree start to lean and fall I stepped back and started waving my arms at my wife to start backing up. She thought I wanted something else so she sat there.

Been there done that! I always try to pick someone that has a clue about what we are doing and knows that no matter what pull on the tree. I have used the bucket method before, but I have a metal canopy to protect somewhat from falling limbs. I used to think this was fun and could drive a stake in the ground with the tree I was felling. The last two trees I took down were dead. I had to cut them almost all the way into before they would move and I had pressure applied with a long rope and the FEL. I don't think it is so much fun any more.

 

[Beltzington]

Plunge Cut Instructions by Husqvarna - See Page 11

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf/chainsaw_cons.pdf

Helped me understand this technique:

Sometimes we don't saw around the tree, we simply clean out the 'plunge', then drive the wedges (one per side) then do a 45* downward cut to finish. The advantage here is that this 45* cut makes a safety-saddle preventing the tree from tipping back in case the canopy is heavy on the back side of the tree. It also is a small enough area so you can get your saw out before is pinches.
Stay safe!