Have you used one? Just curious how well they work?You could get a pond scoop.
Have you used one? Just curious how well they work?You could get a pond scoop.
I also have both. I usually leave the heavy construction grade bucket on but the extra weight cuts into the FEL lifting capacity.The issue with a light gage material bucket, versus a heavy gage excavation bucket is the light gage bucket has a single bottom sheet and digging with it (even with a tooth bar installed) can cause a smile in the bottom sheet that is hard to remove. Most dealers sell a new unit with a light gage bucket. I have both.
Pond scoop, or called a dirt scoop around here. I have one I bought slightly used at a farm equipment graveyard for $200. (no FEL here) Definitely old school and it has it’s limitations but works well once you figure out its quirks. Dig a trench or skim going forward or scoop from a pile in reverse. People ask “why not a FEL”. Well currently they are back ordered for about a year, cost $6000, and I don’t have much use for one, I mostly mow.You could get a pond scoop.
Yours is about 1/3rd the size of my 2 M9's. I run R1's as well with cast centers.Pond scoop, or called a dirt scoop around here. I have one I bought slightly used at a farm equipment graveyard for $200. (no FEL here) Definitely old school and it has it’s limitations but works well once you figure out its quirks. Dig a trench or skim going forward or scoop from a pile in reverse. People ask “why not a FEL”. Well currently they are back ordered for about a year, cost $6000, and I don’t have much use for one, I mostly mow. View attachment 778384View attachment 778386
Huh? Your point? Oh yeah, always bigger, faster, stronger, better……Yours is about 1/3rd the size of my 2 M9's. I run R1's as well with cast centers.
My point is, you buy what you need to do a job correctly. Not on price but on capacity and you don't have that because you bought with your wallet.
Not sure on the Koyker 80, but on the K2 K3 and 200 +series FELs they designed the FEL to Tie into the rear axle with heavy supports, a large cross support in the middle where the FEL uprights are and then forward running supports that mount at the front of the tractor.I just carved out a rock hillside with a light weight flat tooth bucket on a koyker 80. Went real slow and used the rippers when I could. Had very little space so bucket did most of the work.
Went slow but job is getting done. Just pushing along the top of the rock scraping a few inches at a time.
Might as well use it. If it breaks just fix it.
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The loader on either of my tractors (using the HD excavation bucket) is certainly capable of dirt work. Considering what they weigh it's a non issue. I don't do much however. No need to.The loader on your tractor was put there for loading hay bales not digging ponds. They built dirt pans and dozers for doing that.
Look at the following image. On construction (read earth engaging equipment) machines the pins and pin bosses are oversized and frequently use replaceable bronze bushings. The bossess will be 1+ inch thick with gusseting. Now look at your tractor bosses. The are only 1/4 inch thick without gussets and light duty. Using your AG or residential quality tractor will result in premature wear and equipment damage like the image below. Your tractor isn't designed to handle the loads created in earth engaging work.I kind of think "front end loader" means an implement on the front end for picking up and moving loads, from a pile. I fear my little CUT bucket (with a straight edge) isn't meant for cutting into the earth, and if I try to do that, I should go easy, because I'm pushing it out of its intended comfort zone.
But I also think a "backhoe loader" that has teeth on the backhoe bucket and ALSO the front end loader bucket is indeed meant for cutting into the earth. So, it's heavier as well as having teeth.
These seem contradictory. So, how do you tell if a bucket on the front is intended for actual digging? Is it the teeth? Is it the fact that there's also a backhoe on the other end? Putting a tooth bar on my bucket could be taking a bit of a chance with it, right?
Enlighten me please? Thanks!
That looks like more of poor maintenance than anything else. Not an issue with either of my units as I re-machined all the pivots and trunnions and fitted them with Thompson Linear roller bearings and alemite fittings. Even on my 2002, 6000 hour unit, all the pivots are tight with no slop. Neglecting equipment always has a price. On fact, both my tractors get greased every 10 meter hours. Grease is the cheapest commodity you can buy. Use it. Same applies to all my vehicles. Oil changes, filters and fluids get changed regularly and often.Look at the following image. On construction (read earth engaging equipment) machines the pins and pin bosses are oversized and frequently use replaceable bronze bushings. The bossess will be 1+ inch thick with gusseting. Now look at your tractor bosses. The are only 1/4 inch thick without gussets and light duty. Using your AG or residential quality tractor will result in premature wear and equipment damage like the image below. Your tractor isn't designed to handle the loads created in earth engaging work.