fencing

   / fencing #11  
weldingisfun said:
I have been looking for bits everywhere. Where did you find them? I want to do the same thing, weld a cup for driving t-posts.

I got them at Harbor Freight when I bought the jack hammer. The extra bits where in the section that had chisels and and sledge hammers.
 
   / fencing #12  
I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.
 
   / fencing #13  
mboulais said:
I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.

I would use 1x6s for the rails. It is very easy for a horse to lean on a 1x4 and break it. Don't ask me how I know.:eek:
 
   / fencing #14  
Chris,
I'm right there with you too. I've got to do 750' on the South border this Summer. Been avoiding it like the plague. Got the "T" posts already, just need to muster up the guts to start doing it. I'll have to go over a huge boulder so I'll be sledging some pipes into it and welding on the "T" posts.
Glad you got your's run already.
 
   / fencing
  • Thread Starter
#15  
IMHO.. field fence is not suitable for full size equines.. ( perhaps for dwarf or minature ).

Your choice.. but... 1x6x16 ( 8' centers ) coral boards are probably a better choice for boards. For the price of 4x4 you could get 4x5x8 fence posts.. or save a buck or two and get 3x5 treated landscape timbers. Beware the 2$ untreated or surface treated only timbers.. get the ones made for ground contact that are more in line with fence post prices. i like them because of the flat for nailing boards. Almost as good as half rounds or split posts.. but cheaper.. For corners I use 6x8x8.. though a 6x6 should work fine for a board only fence.. though again.. is probably more expensive..

Screws? Again.. your choice.. but I don't know of many people screwing fence boards... -everybody- around here nails them.

Soundguy

mboulais said:
I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.
 
   / fencing
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Get this... I even got my friend to do all the t-post hammering.

When we started, we took tuns on the PHD to sink the wooden H braces and corners... after that it was tpost and wire running time.

I asked him if he wanted to walk and unroll the 60' wire roll or bang posts... he took one look at the barb wire and said.. Nah.. I'll bang posts! I'm glad i wore tall boots that day.. every now and then the roll bounced of my leg and shreded my pants a bit.

I got one of those tube style post pounders.. made short work of the t-post..
especially since i didn't have to do it!

Good luck

Soundguy


3RRL said:
Chris,
I'm right there with you too. I've got to do 750' on the South border this Summer. Been avoiding it like the plague. Got the "T" posts already, just need to muster up the guts to start doing it. I'll have to go over a huge boulder so I'll be sledging some pipes into it and welding on the "T" posts.
Glad you got your's run already.
 
   / fencing #17  
Screws? Again.. your choice.. but I don't know of many people screwing fence boards... -everybody- around here nails them.
I used screws on the "fence" near our gate. The fence is a 4x4 at the end away from the 6x6 that holds the tube gate. There is another pair of 4x4/6x6 post holding another tube gate on the other side of the road. There might be eight feet between the 4x4 and 6x6 posts. The "fence" ends in woods/ditch/drop off such that there is no way from a vehicle to drive around. An ATF MIGHT make it around on one side but it would be iffy.

Anywho, I put some boards up with screws. After a few months I would drive out to the property and I would find a board hanging loose. :confused: I thought someone was kicking the board loose to get past the gate. But the ground was super muddy and no foot prints. No prints on the boards either. No sign of being hammered either. The screw was broken in half. One end in the board and the other in the post. It took some umph to break that screw by pulling the shaft apart.....

So what happened? Best I can tell it was either the boards/post warping and/or water freezing between the board and post. I put in nails when putting the boards back up and have not had a problem since.

Later,
Dan
 
   / fencing #18  
Any fasteners are going to need to be either stainless steel or hot galvanaized to survive in the new PT. The snapped screws sound consistent with side loading on the screws. Screws are hardened and more brittle than nails. They can't take as much side loads, like from the two fence posts leaning away from each other after frost heave.
 
   / fencing #19  
Soundguy said:
Get this... I even got my friend to do all the t-post hammering.

......

I got one of those tube style post pounders.. made short work of the t-post..
especially since i didn't have to do it!

Good luck

Soundguy

My SO and i just did about four acres worth of t-posts. She said it was the best abs exercise ever. :)

Beats going to a gym.

-Mike Z.
 
   / fencing
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Yep.. When i did the front fence.. my arms drew up and it was hard to tie my shoes for a few days!!

soundguy
 

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