filling in waterway with gravel ? Help

   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #21  
I'd leave pipe under the gravel, or culvert if you can get it deep enough.. but in any case.. at least a 4" or 6" pipe.. etc..

soundguy
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #22  
I'd leave pipe under the gravel, or culvert if you can get it deep enough.. but in any case.. at least a 4" or 6" pipe.. etc..

soundguy
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #23  
IMO, if you're installing only some pipe or culvert, then don't use anything smaller than a 12" culvert. Anything smaller would be very difficult to clear should it get plugged up -- which is pretty likely in an area with lots of leaves and debris.

I'd also recommend you get the black plastic culvert that's smooth on the inside, yet corrogated on the outside. They don't clog as bad as the single layer corrogated metal ones ...

If you're using pipe, use the biggest you can get/afford, and make sure it's smooth on the inside...

My two cents...
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #24  
IMO, if you're installing only some pipe or culvert, then don't use anything smaller than a 12" culvert. Anything smaller would be very difficult to clear should it get plugged up -- which is pretty likely in an area with lots of leaves and debris.

I'd also recommend you get the black plastic culvert that's smooth on the inside, yet corrogated on the outside. They don't clog as bad as the single layer corrogated metal ones ...

If you're using pipe, use the biggest you can get/afford, and make sure it's smooth on the inside...

My two cents...
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #25  
"I'd also recommend you get the black plastic culvert that's smooth on the inside, yet corrogated on the outside. They don't clog as bad as the single layer corrogated metal ones"

Me too. It is called Corrugated Polyethene Pipe or CPEP. A very common brand is ADS it is their N-12 pipe. The CPEP is light, UV tolerant, easy to cut, easy to splice together with cheap connectors, and pretty much the cheapest out there. In my area, 12" CPEP is 8$ per foot. 36" is 27$ per foot but it is a petroleum based product like all plastics so the price might be volatile.

I had a deep ditch cutting off a corner of my property. I scrounged up a 36" corrugated metal pipe (aka wrinkle tin, CMP) and a 24" CPEP pipe and layed them side by side in the ditch. The pipes were extra, throw aways, and I was happy to take them. I can now cross and get work done. These ditches can be a big problem if you plug them. Upstream there could be a little old lady in her creekfront house that floods and kills her because your culvert was too small or plugged. It is very wise to overbuild the crossing.

This picture is when they were pretty new. The crossing was soft at first and has since really firmed up to carry excavators, log skidders, etc.
 

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   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #26  
"I'd also recommend you get the black plastic culvert that's smooth on the inside, yet corrogated on the outside. They don't clog as bad as the single layer corrogated metal ones"

Me too. It is called Corrugated Polyethene Pipe or CPEP. A very common brand is ADS it is their N-12 pipe. The CPEP is light, UV tolerant, easy to cut, easy to splice together with cheap connectors, and pretty much the cheapest out there. In my area, 12" CPEP is 8$ per foot. 36" is 27$ per foot but it is a petroleum based product like all plastics so the price might be volatile.

I had a deep ditch cutting off a corner of my property. I scrounged up a 36" corrugated metal pipe (aka wrinkle tin, CMP) and a 24" CPEP pipe and layed them side by side in the ditch. The pipes were extra, throw aways, and I was happy to take them. I can now cross and get work done. These ditches can be a big problem if you plug them. Upstream there could be a little old lady in her creekfront house that floods and kills her because your culvert was too small or plugged. It is very wise to overbuild the crossing.

This picture is when they were pretty new. The crossing was soft at first and has since really firmed up to carry excavators, log skidders, etc.
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #27  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( then don't use anything smaller than a 12" culvert )</font>

Kent.. did ya read his original message.. the ditch he is crossing is only 1' wide and 1' deep in some places.. wider in others.. but in any case not over 2' deep or wide in most of the areas. If ya lay a 12" culvert in that.. it's gonna stick up out of the ground in some areas, and in others it'l have a few inchs of dirt over it. What do you think will happen tot hat culver that is bare, or has a couple inches of dirt over it when the tractor runs over it, or down it? I think it will have a load bearing failure... That rigid culvert pipe needs to be burried a bit to have some of the load spread ... etc

I've seen lots of limited space culvert issues where multiple pieces of 4" pipe were used to divert water under a small foot bridge... not ideal.. but kept the water flowing. And there are a few clean out options.. like plungers.. pushed thru or drug thru, as well as my favorite.. high pressure water heads... The GC I work for has had the county contract for 3 years now cleaning culverts with a modified sewer vac ( vactor) truck using a high pressure head and HDPE hosing....

Soundguy
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #28  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( then don't use anything smaller than a 12" culvert )</font>

Kent.. did ya read his original message.. the ditch he is crossing is only 1' wide and 1' deep in some places.. wider in others.. but in any case not over 2' deep or wide in most of the areas. If ya lay a 12" culvert in that.. it's gonna stick up out of the ground in some areas, and in others it'l have a few inchs of dirt over it. What do you think will happen tot hat culver that is bare, or has a couple inches of dirt over it when the tractor runs over it, or down it? I think it will have a load bearing failure... That rigid culvert pipe needs to be burried a bit to have some of the load spread ... etc

I've seen lots of limited space culvert issues where multiple pieces of 4" pipe were used to divert water under a small foot bridge... not ideal.. but kept the water flowing. And there are a few clean out options.. like plungers.. pushed thru or drug thru, as well as my favorite.. high pressure water heads... The GC I work for has had the county contract for 3 years now cleaning culverts with a modified sewer vac ( vactor) truck using a high pressure head and HDPE hosing....

Soundguy
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #29  
I think he only needs to cross it in one spot.

I agree that much of a culvert's strength comes from it being burried. 12" below grade is the minimum burrial in most cases.

It seems to me he could excavate to get a 20' section of ditch 24" deep.
 
   / filling in waterway with gravel ? Help #30  
I think he only needs to cross it in one spot.

I agree that much of a culvert's strength comes from it being burried. 12" below grade is the minimum burrial in most cases.

It seems to me he could excavate to get a 20' section of ditch 24" deep.
 

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