Finally broke something - YM186D 3-point lift lever does nothing

[California]

I was detaching the box blade from the YM186D and after I got it detached, the arms simply dropped. The 3-point lift lever does nothing. It feels like it is no longer attached to anything internal. Its range of motion is larger than before. Everything worked normally up to that moment.

Any ideas about what I need to do to repair this?

 

[bmaverick]

I was detaching the box blade from the YM186D and after I got it detached, the arms simply dropped. The 3-point lift lever does nothing. It feels like it is no longer attached to anything internal. Its range of motion is larger than before. Everything worked normally up to that moment.

Any ideas about what I need to do to repair this?

I'm on pg-88 in the YM186 International Parts Manual, section 53 CONTROL VALVE. Did you come in contact with either items, 26 or 35 ???

 

[California]

I'm on pg-88 in the YM186 International Parts Manual, section 53 CONTROL VALVE. Did you come in contact with either items, 26 or 35 ???

Looks like that's the drop rate adjuster, no? I never reached under there to touch that.

And I expect tinkering with that would still leave the ability to squeal if the lift lever is raised too high. 'Too high' no longer exists, just slack motion.

 

[California]

Studying the next page, Section 54, it feels like #6 Fork is no longer attached to the lift lever assembly that is supposed to control it. I hope that's all it is.

Hoye's diagram is clearer than that manual and same part numbers:

 

[bmaverick]

Looks like that's the drop rate adjuster, no? I never reached under there to touch that.

And I expect tinkering with that would still leave the ability to squeal if the lift lever is raised too high. 'Too high' no longer exists, just slack motion.

About 1 week after getting the YM2610, I played with a few things and the lift arms no longer moved. It took some time to figure out, I touched those little levers.

First, mark or take note where each lever is located at present. Next, move one slowly left-right or up-down. Monitor any changes.

 

[bmaverick]

Studying the next page, Section 54, it feels like #6 Fork has come loose from the lift lever. I hope that's all it is.

That would be a nice repair. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

And Hoye even sells the lift lever assembly, $79. I doubt I broke the internal side of that but its possible. More likely the rollpin attaching #6 Fork to it, failed.

I can see why replica replacement levers are available - I broke the lever off the shaft that goes into the transmission on the prior YM186D. It was simple to weld back on. No parts needed. My welders are as much valued 'toys' as the Yanmars. I was back to work after a few minutes.

 

[California]

That would be a nice repair. :thumbsup:

Thanks for getting me started in the right direction! I had no idea what to look for, before seeing that diagram.

 

[winston1]

And Hoye even sells the lift lever assembly, $79. I doubt I broke the internal side of that but its possible. More likely the rollpin attaching #6 Fork to it, failed.

I can see why replica replacement levers are available - I broke the lever off the shaft that goes into the transmission on the prior YM186D. It was simple to weld back on. No parts needed. My welders are as much valued 'toys' as the Yanmars. I was back to work after a few minutes.

Almost seems like an unusual part that Hoye would stock unless it is a troublesome part but entry into the area is going to reveal the truth.

 

[California]

Almost seems like an unusual part [lift lever] that Hoye would stock unless it is a troublesome part ...

The top of that lever doesn't emerge through a slot like the larger tractors. It's easy to force the rod out toward the fender while turning around to look behind so I can see how they break.

Any side to side stress bears on the joint down where the lever is welded to the rod. The lever isn't much wider than the rod so snapping off the rod at the weld is a definite possibility.

On the prior tractor, the rod broke off where it met a previous re-weld. When I made my repair I ran some beads up the outside of the lever to stiffen it.

It's reasonable to stock a replica replacement since not everyone would take a broken one to a welding shop.