Finally got me a REAL Truck

   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #101  
Any of you have experience with the XRFs?
I haven't heard of the XRF's but my local Advance Auto Parts carries TRW brand ball joints and tie rods. I did my truck at 55k with new tires, upper and lower ball joints and tie rod on both sides for just under $250. I recently had new tires put on with an alignment and the tech said everything was still tight. So after 50k miles, they are holding up well but only time will tell if they last. I don't plow with the truck but tow 90% of the time with it and down very rough paved and dirt roads with the occasional off-roading adventure while camping. No complaints so far.

I've seen Moog parts fail and these have the grease fittings and are typically $10-20 cheaper than Moog.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #102  
Well...Another little update:

Only the upper joint is supposed to have that vertical play, NOT the lower. The upper is more of a king-pin style. NO ball at all.


Dodge Ram 2500 3500 Ball Joint and Hub Assembly Kits, XRF | SKF | McQuay-Norris

That goes against everything I've been shown, experienced and was taught. A lower ball joint will always have some vertical play the uppers are supposed to have none.. Perhaps who you spoke with or viewed on the net got it mixed up. The trouble is most people put too much pressure on the crow bar to make the home test. Enough pressure beyond about 25lbs will make just about anything move. Some people even put the crow bar between the knuckle and the joint instead of under the tire. A more assertive finding from the shop would have been telling you the results of a dial indicator.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck
  • Thread Starter
#103  
That goes against everything I've been shown, experienced and was taught. A lower ball joint will always have some vertical play the uppers are supposed to have none..

Here is my source for the latest info I posted. Short Ball Joint Life on Dodge AAM 925 Front Axles

You can clearly see why the upper has the vertical play. It is NOT really a ball-joint.

And the lower one IS a ball joint and is the ONLY one carrying the weight. I have to agree with the artical that it isnt a very good design.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #104  
Here is my source for the latest info I posted. Short Ball Joint Life on Dodge AAM 925 Front Axles

You can clearly see why the upper has the vertical play. It is NOT really a ball-joint.

And the lower one IS a ball joint and is the ONLY one carrying the weight. I have to agree with the artical that it isnt a very good design.

I questioned your statement about lower joints are supposed to have none. That's just about impossible as they are a surface friction area subject to wear and thus play. Upper joints in my experience were always the one's that were supposed to have none. Doesn't mean somebody would come along with some lame brain design to satisfy some pencil pusher and bean counter. I've worked on trucks since 1954. Some of the stuff I'd see as "improvements" would make you puke. One of the worst was the 1999-2003 Durango ball joint fiasco where the design was so poor, they had to restructure the entire suspension structure during a recall.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck
  • Thread Starter
#105  
That goes against everything I've been shown, experienced and was taught. A lower ball joint will always have some vertical play the uppers are supposed to have none.. Perhaps who you spoke with or viewed on the net got it mixed up. The trouble is most people put too much pressure on the crow bar to make the home test. Enough pressure beyond about 25lbs will make just about anything move. Some people even put the crow bar between the knuckle and the joint instead of under the tire. A more assertive finding from the shop would have been telling you the results of a dial indicator.

This is what I posted the reference in response to:thumbsup:

I questioned your statement about lower joints are supposed to have none. That's just about impossible as they are a surface friction area subject to wear and thus play. Upper joints in my experience were always the one's that were supposed to have none. Doesn't mean somebody would come along with some lame brain design to satisfy some pencil pusher and bean counter. I've worked on trucks since 1954. Some of the stuff I'd see as "improvements" would make you puke. One of the worst was the 1999-2003 Durango ball joint fiasco where the design was so poor, they had to restructure the entire suspension structure during a recall.

And yes, the lowers will have "some" play. But nothing like the 5/16" vertical travel that the upper "non-ball-joint-style" have. A GOOD new ball joint for the lowers should have almost NO detectable movement (without precice measuring equipment), other than the normal radial movement. And the zero-lash XRF joints that I linked to shoudlnt have ANY movement even with precise instruments when new.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #106  
This is what I posted the reference in response to:thumbsup:



And yes, the lowers will have "some" play. But nothing like the 5/16" vertical travel that the upper "non-ball-joint-style" have. A GOOD new ball joint for the lowers should have almost NO detectable movement (without precice measuring equipment), other than the normal radial movement. And the zero-lash XRF joints that I linked to shoudlnt have ANY movement even with precise instruments when new.

You are correct. What I thought I read and what I thought to remember got a bit crossed. Most vehicles that have an upper and lower joint have the uppers with no play. The newer Dodges had to have the uppers blocked to test the lowers. Very few places would go to the trouble of testing these things out properly including using a dial indicator. All the joints would be swapped out when the lowers didn't need to be.

The thing you have most going for you is the lack of miles you are planning to use the truck. Even with factory stuff reinserted you would still get 8 to 11 years of service. If you were going to use your truck for 20 to 40k per year and plan to keep it, I would not hesitate spending the $650 for the Dynatracs. At least you'd get the whole set for that price and they make the truck so much more precise. They are so well built they look like they belong in the space shuttle. I apologize for the confusion and my lack of recollection on these specific Dodges.
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck
  • Thread Starter
#107  
I apologize for the confusion and my lack of recollection on these specific Dodges.

No apologies necessary:) I have often done the same thing before. We are only human right:thumbsup:
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #108  
. We are only human right:thumbsup:

Some people would think of me otherwise. The part that bothers me the most is that I rarely come on this board as I only talk about things I know about and I do not try to bull anyone. This is a place to get answers and the last thing a person needs is to get wrong info. As I get older, more of my past seems to blend into the present but my past is pretty old and I've worked on so much stuff, it all blends in at times. As much as I know about vehicles and engines of high performance, I hesitate to give advice if it is coming out like it is now. The ravages of time are over running me and what was true of the past no longer holds the same water. My recent past seems like 50 years ago and 50 years ago seems like last Saturday. I'lll stick to chainsaws or as long as I can remember of them which at this rate won't be too much longer.
 
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   / Finally got me a REAL Truck
  • Thread Starter
#109  
Kinda an update on the new truck here:

Dealer replaced the U-joint AND took care of the oil leak. Front crank seal.

Since they had to remove the radiator and drain the oil to do the Job, I gt fresh coolant and a free oil change too. Not to mention a free loner car. I love when work is done under warrenty:thumbsup:
~
But I do think the mileage computer is off a tad. Since I had to drive ~500 miles due to them diagnosing the oil leak with dye, I actually had a full tank, and could get a good check.

425miles total. About 350 of that was interstate with crusie set @ 75mph. Of the other 75, was shorter trips including a ~15 mile trip hauling a 5000lb trailer.

Trip computer showed 18.5MPG. Took 28 gallons to fill. 425/28= 15mpg:mad:

Not quite as good as I was hoping for. ALL the other vehichles I have ever had, that trip computer was spot on within 0.1MPG. Kinda sad:confused2:

I also had a chance to weight the truck. FULL tank and my 165lb self and it weighs 7870lbs
 
   / Finally got me a REAL Truck #110  
does it have any sort of a performance or tune chip in it?

soundguy
 

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