Finish Mower Height

[lonka2]

I purchased a 60" Big Bee finish mower a few months back and it just cuts too low. Approximately 2 inches. I was able to locate the manual on-line and it says you can cut from 1 to 6 inches. I have placed all the spacers on the bottom of the wheel spindle and there is no more room for additional spacers. Does anyone know of a simple fix?

 

[greg_g]

More spacers. By the looks of the parts manual ( http://www.agequipmentusa.com/agequ...nishing Mowers Big Bee FM 48-60-72 manual.pdf ), you only got two 1/2" and one 3/4" spacers per corner. Stands to reason that with no spacers you'd get the aforementioned 2" cut. If three per corner is all you got, that means you're only raising it another 1-3/4 inches. For the full 6" cutting height, you'd need spacers that total 4 inches

//greg//

 

[lonka2]

Thanks for the information Greg. I guess the problem I'm having is the wheel spindle will only accept 2 half inch spacers (See Photos). I was thinking about taking the wheel assemblies to a machine shop to have extensions made, but I wanted two see if someone else had a simpler solution. Thanks again.

 

[greg_g]

No - I think the problem is with whoever told you it could be adjusted to cut between 2" and 6". Take a closer look at that owners manual I uploaded for you. The cutting heights are stated on pg2.

And the 1st photo suggests that those aren't OE wheels/tires on there. They appear to be possibly as much as 2" too small for those forks. Most finish mowers I've used have tires sized so the tread and sidewalls nearly touch the top and sides of the forks. Bigger tires would give you back some cutting height.

//greg//

 

[lonka2]

Thanks Greg,

Tire size did cross my mind but if I put larger tires on, they would interfere with the turn clearance. There is only a quarter inch gap between the mower deck and the wheel (while it turns). I mentioned 1 to 6 inch cuts based on the attached flyer. Other than tire size, do you have any other suggestions?

 

[CDsdad]

I'm like greg. I don't think those are the original wheels. I don't think the fork assemblies are OE either. Maybe you could find a better diagram showing the wheel assemblies that gives you the size and compare to what you have.

 

[lonka2]

Here is a picture of new Big Bee sold at stevenstractors.com. I believe these are the same wheels and forks.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Having both a finish mower and bushog I am curious why you would want a finish mower to cut 6" grass unless you have a lot of scalding going on from undulations?

 

[lonka2]

I would like to raise my cutting height to around 4 inches. This would be a better cutting height for St. Augustine grass. BTW, this is my first posting on TBN and I am grateful for all the suggestions.

 

[MarkLeininger]

I would like to raise my cutting height to around 4 inches. This would be a better cutting height for St. Augustine grass. BTW, this is my first posting on TBN and I am grateful for all the suggestions.

I hear you, I cut my pasture grass as high as I can get it to keep the weeds down but the grass healthy. Not sure what's wrong with your setup, but it doesn't matter, you need to change it. Two options I see are to try to find different blades that might give you a few inches more height if there's room under the deck. Instead of welding extensions on the wheel pins, I think I'd have them weld new cradles that the deck hangs from, and raise the deck a few inches. That cradle is a hack welding project, even I could do it. Those pins are a nice finish and need to fit pretty accurately through the bushing. Doesn't seem easy to get that right.

That's one advantage of rotary cutters over finish mowers. Rotary cutters usually cut up to about 10" or 12". Of course if you need that quality cut they won't work.

 

[Glowplug]

The problem is the cradles just like said above. Look at the photos of the new one compared to yours. The angle is way too steep on yours; plus they're probably too long. I think you're gonna need new cradles. Heck, you could maybe even not put an angle in them but just have straight square tubing since you want a higher cut!

BTW, welcome to TBN!!

 

[EddieWalker]

Lonka,

That second picture shows some very poor welds. I'm wondering why those welds are there? If it broke and you fixed it, then I apologize for my critisism, but those are the welds of a beginner. I can't believe that a company would try to sell an impliment with welds that look like that.

Because of those welds, I think somebody has done some modifications to your wheel height and placement. I wonder if that is the original bracket or one that was similar that they were able to make work. If it is the original bracket, I really gotta question why it was welded. Do the other corners have the same looking welds? If it's just the one, then it's likely that it broke and sombody welded it back together. If they are all welded up like that, then there is your proof that a modification has been made and there's nothing you can buy to fix it. You will have to undo the modification or create one of your own.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[lonka2]

I hear you, I cut my pasture grass as high as I can get it to keep the weeds down but the grass healthy. Not sure what's wrong with your setup, but it doesn't matter, you need to change it. Two options I see are to try to find different blades that might give you a few inches more height if there's room under the deck. Instead of welding extensions on the wheel pins, I think I'd have them weld new cradles that the deck hangs from, and raise the deck a few inches. That cradle is a hack welding project, even I could do it. Those pins are a nice finish and need to fit pretty accurately through the bushing. Doesn't seem easy to get that right.

That's one advantage of rotary cutters over finish mowers. Rotary cutters usually cut up to about 10" or 12". Of course if you need that quality cut they won't work.

Thanks Mark. Both of your suggestions makes sense to me. I never thought about adding a cradle rather than extending the wheel pins.

The problem is the cradles just like said above. Look at the photos of the new one compared to yours. The angle is way too steep on yours; plus they're probably too long. I think you're gonna need new cradles. Heck, you could maybe even not put an angle in them but just have straight square tubing since you want a higher cut!

BTW, welcome to TBN!!

Glowplug, Thanks for your suggestions. I think your right about the new cradle vs the old. I purchased this finish mower as a package deal when I bought my tractor. I don't know the history, but there is definitely something wrong with the cradles.

Lonka,

That second picture shows some very poor welds. I'm wondering why those welds are there? If it broke and you fixed it, then I apologize for my critisism, but those are the welds of a beginner. I can't believe that a company would try to sell an impliment with welds that look like that.

Because of those welds, I think somebody has done some modifications to your wheel height and placement. I wonder if that is the original bracket or one that was similar that they were able to make work. If it is the original bracket, I really gotta question why it was welded. Do the other corners have the same looking welds? If it's just the one, then it's likely that it broke and sombody welded it back together. If they are all welded up like that, then there is your proof that a modification has been made and there's nothing you can buy to fix it. You will have to undo the modification or create one of your own.

Good luck,
Eddie

Eddie,

You're right, even a non-welder (like myself) could do better. I took some additonal pictures of the other welds. I dont know the history of this mower, but I'm willing to say these are just bad factory welds. But who konws. Perhaps I should purchase a welders and get to town.

 

[mwb]

I agree that making a new cradle would be the best solution. The reason why those spindles have been welded it because the leverage action of the wheel puts a lot of force on the joint. Adding spacers increases the moment and amplifies the stress on those welds.

I would use a straight piece of rectangular tube - possibly spaced off the deck by another tube if needed - and try to not use any spacers between the wheel and spindle.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[zzvyb6]

Remount the guage wheel support bars upside down on the deck and reinstall the guage wheels with spacers opposite of what you have now. You will find the increased cutting height hiding there....

 

[suncoast]

Could you move the cradles to the sides of the frame?

 

[shane]

Lonka,

That second picture shows some very poor welds. I'm wondering why those welds are there? If it broke and you fixed it, then I apologize for my critisism, but those are the welds of a beginner. I can't believe that a company would try to sell an impliment with welds that look like that.

Because of those welds, I think somebody has done some modifications to your wheel height and placement. I wonder if that is the original bracket or one that was similar that they were able to make work. If it is the original bracket, I really gotta question why it was welded. Do the other corners have the same looking welds? If it's just the one, then it's likely that it broke and sombody welded it back together. If they are all welded up like that, then there is your proof that a modification has been made and there's nothing you can buy to fix it. You will have to undo the modification or create one of your own.

Good luck,
Eddie

I'm a late comer but as soon as I saw the photos that's the first thing I thought of. I was just waiting to get through reading all the post to say something and lo and behold Eddie done jump on it.