Came across a new (used) 6' finish mower today. 18 months with the tractor and still a lot to learn. How do I use this thing? I do know the basics but don't know how fast to pull it or how high rpm's. Can I turn with it on the ground or does it need to be off the ground? 84 hours on this tractor and have not tore it up yet.
Finish Mower
- Thread starter gpaintjr
- Start date
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JoeL4330
Platinum Member
Well, you've identified it correctly ...a finish mower. Presumably it's connected to your PTO, so to use it your RPMs should nominally be set at 540rpm. It should be adjusted for height of cut by moving spacers on wheel shanks above or below their respective "receivers" ...don't scalp the lawn ...and, presumably it has an "anti-scalp" roller on the front?
As for turning when mowing normally, sure, turn w. mower on ground ...but don't turn too sharply or you can easily unseat the tires from the rims and, incidentally, the tires should be checked and filled each time you mow ...probably 50-60 psi, whatever is max pressure on the tire.
The exception to the mower-on-the-ground rule is never, never back up with the mower on the ground ...because of the caster on the wheels, this puts strong, undesirable forces on the wheels and is probably the best way to roll the tire off the bead, which is highly undesireable (been there, done that ...learn how to put a cinch-strap around the tire to re-inflate/re-seat). Flat tires are a pain and if you have thorns, nails, etc. you might want to put flat proofing goop in the tires ...after the first few flats.
Presumably the top link (and, for that matter, the side links) on the mower swing, so that the mower can be compliant with uneven terrain (within limits). Mowers can eject deadly things at high speed so know who/what is in the discharge path.
When turning, note that the mower in the rear describes a broader arc than the rear wheels (just like your loader does in the front).
One other thing: if you mow down steep slopes 4wd is a must ...when you lower the mower to cut, it takes that counterbalancing rear weight off the rear tires, and can unload them enough so they have no traction ...and you have no braking, engine-wise or otherwise unless you are in 4wd (been there, done that ...a "Nantucket sleigh ride" ...it is counter-intuitive, but if you find yourself in this position, RAISE the mower)
Yet one other caution: when the mower is raised and engaged (i.e., turning, say, when you are backing up or turning sharply) you don't want it too high so that the PTO shaft angle is too severe because universal joints don't like this much.
As for turning when mowing normally, sure, turn w. mower on ground ...but don't turn too sharply or you can easily unseat the tires from the rims and, incidentally, the tires should be checked and filled each time you mow ...probably 50-60 psi, whatever is max pressure on the tire.
The exception to the mower-on-the-ground rule is never, never back up with the mower on the ground ...because of the caster on the wheels, this puts strong, undesirable forces on the wheels and is probably the best way to roll the tire off the bead, which is highly undesireable (been there, done that ...learn how to put a cinch-strap around the tire to re-inflate/re-seat). Flat tires are a pain and if you have thorns, nails, etc. you might want to put flat proofing goop in the tires ...after the first few flats.
Presumably the top link (and, for that matter, the side links) on the mower swing, so that the mower can be compliant with uneven terrain (within limits). Mowers can eject deadly things at high speed so know who/what is in the discharge path.
When turning, note that the mower in the rear describes a broader arc than the rear wheels (just like your loader does in the front).
One other thing: if you mow down steep slopes 4wd is a must ...when you lower the mower to cut, it takes that counterbalancing rear weight off the rear tires, and can unload them enough so they have no traction ...and you have no braking, engine-wise or otherwise unless you are in 4wd (been there, done that ...a "Nantucket sleigh ride" ...it is counter-intuitive, but if you find yourself in this position, RAISE the mower)
Yet one other caution: when the mower is raised and engaged (i.e., turning, say, when you are backing up or turning sharply) you don't want it too high so that the PTO shaft angle is too severe because universal joints don't like this much.
oliver28472
Veteran Member
The mower tires probably don't take air. Also they should swivel and track in whatever direction you are traveling, whether it's forward, reverse, left or right. I back up with mine on the ground and have never unseated one yet. Been doing this for years. Other advise is good.
DK35vince
Super Member
Yes, you can turn with it on the ground.gpaintjr said:
With my rear finish mower I just set it on the ground and go. Forward, backward, turning.
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
JoeL4330 said:
What is meant here, is that the engine RPM should be set at the RPM that produces 540 on the PTO. This will usually be noted on the Tach. Normally it is wide open and then backed off just a smidgen.
Now you just have to wait for grass to grow!!
Mike
Squeak n Itch
Silver Member
Right now is a great time to sharpen those blades. Remember this is a finish mower and the idea is to cut the grass not beat it to death. Too many folks think of these machines as brush hogs and ignore sharpening the blades. I try to sharpen mine at least twice during the summer. The leading edges of the blades do a ton of work. Overcoming dull blades with horsepower is the same as sewing with a dull needle and using pliers!
CDsdad
Platinum Member
While your sharpening blades, there are several other things you can also do. Grease the blade spindles, caster spindles that the wheels ride on, and the wheel bearings themselves. Also check belt tension and gearbox oil for correct level and no water. I like my RFM, saves a lot of time. And if you don't have a front roller, and your yard is not flat or level, they are money well spent.
prosperity
Platinum Member
I'm glad this subject came up.
I came across a deal I couldn't refuse on a Deere 272 finish mower.
Now, I've mowed with belly mowers, zero turns, and bush hogs, but never a finish mower.
What bothers me about this unit, is not having gauge wheels on the front of the mower - only rear wheels.
I can assume that I should set it up like I do my bush hog - setting the rear wheels to the proper height, then adjust my 3 point arms to make the mower level. Just wonder about scalping with the front of the mower on uneven ground.
I really wish this mower had front wheels, but for the price I paid, I guess I will live with it.
Am I thinking right with my setup plan?
I came across a deal I couldn't refuse on a Deere 272 finish mower.
Now, I've mowed with belly mowers, zero turns, and bush hogs, but never a finish mower.
What bothers me about this unit, is not having gauge wheels on the front of the mower - only rear wheels.
I can assume that I should set it up like I do my bush hog - setting the rear wheels to the proper height, then adjust my 3 point arms to make the mower level. Just wonder about scalping with the front of the mower on uneven ground.
I really wish this mower had front wheels, but for the price I paid, I guess I will live with it.
Am I thinking right with my setup plan?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Odd that it doesn't have front wheels, but I guess there is a reason for it.
I found that going from a rotary cutter to a finish mower, that keeping my top links as loose as possible really helps the wheels stay on the ground better. I have it just as loose as I can and still be able to lift the mower if I have to. Then, unlike the rotary cutter, I just drive along and let it cut. Those four wheels at each corner do a great job of keeping the blades at the right height and there's nothing for me to do but enjoy the day and not drive into anything.
My tires are air filled, so that's an issue I plan on addressing this year. I've had numerous flats and each time, it's something silly. I will replace each tire with solid ones this year as I'm tired of ruining a days mowing because of a flat tire.
I put new blades on mine as the ones it came with were beyond sharpening. I grease it every time I use it and haven't had any trouble with it.
I think mowing speed is dependent on the type of grass you have, how thick it is and how much HP your tractor has. I cut at a fair speed and high RPM's to get the finish that I like. When I hit an area that is thicker then others, I down shift a gear and go through it slower. Other then what gear I'm in, the RPM's area always the same.
Eddie
I found that going from a rotary cutter to a finish mower, that keeping my top links as loose as possible really helps the wheels stay on the ground better. I have it just as loose as I can and still be able to lift the mower if I have to. Then, unlike the rotary cutter, I just drive along and let it cut. Those four wheels at each corner do a great job of keeping the blades at the right height and there's nothing for me to do but enjoy the day and not drive into anything.
My tires are air filled, so that's an issue I plan on addressing this year. I've had numerous flats and each time, it's something silly. I will replace each tire with solid ones this year as I'm tired of ruining a days mowing because of a flat tire.
I put new blades on mine as the ones it came with were beyond sharpening. I grease it every time I use it and haven't had any trouble with it.
I think mowing speed is dependent on the type of grass you have, how thick it is and how much HP your tractor has. I cut at a fair speed and high RPM's to get the finish that I like. When I hit an area that is thicker then others, I down shift a gear and go through it slower. Other then what gear I'm in, the RPM's area always the same.
Eddie
